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Old 09-22-2008, 08:51 AM   #1
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Default Mi 3.5pro

Just got the new Mi3.5pro and i'm having trouble placing the receiver, the only place it can fit is on top of the servo, anyone know if that is alright to do that? Would it cause alot of interferance? I'm thinking that it might just not sure, there is no where else i can see to put it.

Other thing i have is the 540-J motor, it has a Yellow and Green wire, which is the positive and which is the negative? May sound simple but this 1 has me stuck too.

Anyone got any ideas at all would be a great help, i'm a little stuck.

Thanks
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Old 09-22-2008, 09:00 AM   #2
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Ciny, you shouldn't pick up any interference from mounting the receiver on top of the servo.

On the 540-J the yellow wire is Positive and the green is Negative
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Old 09-22-2008, 09:03 AM   #3
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A lot of guys run the receiver on top of the servo, so that shouldn't be a problem, a lot of us also run the on their side next to the servo as well depending on the size of your esc.

I cant help on the old brushed motor stuff I haven't run one in quite some time????

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ciny View Post
Just got the new Mi3.5pro and i'm having trouble placing the receiver, the only place it can fit is on top of the servo, anyone know if that is alright to do that? Would it cause alot of interferance? I'm thinking that it might just not sure, there is no where else i can see to put it.

Other thing i have is the 540-J motor, it has a Yellow and Green wire, which is the positive and which is the negative? May sound simple but this 1 has me stuck too.

Anyone got any ideas at all would be a great help, i'm a little stuck.

Thanks
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Old 09-23-2008, 12:03 AM   #4
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Thx for the help guys
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Old 09-23-2008, 12:19 AM   #5
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What are the differences between the MI3 and MI3.5? I have a MI3 just beginning of this year. Damn, if I have waited for a while I would have the MI3.5
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Old 09-23-2008, 05:31 AM   #6
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in a nutshell...

Euro Top Deck
3 hole steering blocks
lightweight bulkheads
black shock caps
titanium turnbuckles
And lastly it comes assembled

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Originally Posted by g8rc View Post
What are the differences between the MI3 and MI3.5? I have a MI3 just beginning of this year. Damn, if I have waited for a while I would have the MI3.5
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Old 09-23-2008, 07:04 AM   #7
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I could use a little more help, the manual is a little vague to me so could some explain how i tighten up the belts, the front 1 seems a little loose to me.

I'm also after setup guide for it, I've had an NT1 and used that setup book it had, could i use that setup guide for the Mi3.5? I'm not sure how different the setup guides are between electric and nitro, it's been along time since i've used electric.

Thanks

Last edited by Ciny; 09-23-2008 at 07:23 AM.
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Old 09-23-2008, 07:31 AM   #8
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You adjust the belt tension by rotating the differential eccentrics, also you adjust the diff height this way as well.

I cant say the NT1 setup guide is wrong or right, but I learned a lot of setup information from the X-Ray 007 setup guide so maybe the NT1 would work as well?

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Originally Posted by Ciny View Post
I could use a little more help, the manual is a little vague to me so could some explain how i tighten up the belts, the front 1 seems a little loose to me.

I'm also after setup guide for it, I've had an NT1 and used that setup book it had, could i use that setup guide for the Mi3.5? I'm not sure how different the setup guides are between electric and nitro, it's been along time since i've used electric.

Thanks
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Old 09-23-2008, 12:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ciny View Post
I could use a little more help, the manual is a little vague to me so could some explain how i tighten up the belts, the front 1 seems a little loose to me.

I'm also after setup guide for it, I've had an NT1 and used that setup book it had, could i use that setup guide for the Mi3.5? I'm not sure how different the setup guides are between electric and nitro, it's been along time since i've used electric.

Thanks
Yes..I too use the 007 setup book for reference...afterall, the concept is the same for all the car, you just have to use what Xray mentioned and apply the change to your own car, I would say 90% of the adjustment are very common for the 90% of the car in the market.

Using NT1 is NOT the best way to do...Nitro TC runs differently then electric TC...2-speed verus single speed....pivot ball design versus traditional elect TC design...and you won't find the high end and low end needle on Mi3.5...LOL
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Old 09-23-2008, 06:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ciny View Post

Other thing i have is the 540-J motor, it has a Yellow and Green wire, which is the positive and which is the negative? May sound simple but this 1 has me stuck too.
Also if you take a close look at the motor there should be a little red or silver circle on the positive terminal.
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Old 09-24-2008, 09:25 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
in a nutshell...

Euro Top Deck
3 hole steering blocks
lightweight bulkheads
black shock caps
titanium turnbuckles
And lastly it comes assembled
Thanks.. I guess I will passed MI3.5 for now. As I prefer to build it, then run. Half of the fun is taken away when it is ready assembled.
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Old 09-24-2008, 08:09 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g8rc View Post
Thanks.. I guess I will passed MI3.5 for now. As I prefer to build it, then run. Half of the fun is taken away when it is ready assembled.
Its really nice for novices because the cars are put together right. No matter how good the instructions are on any car some guys ALWAYS mess up the assembly. The Mi3.5 at least get guys off to a good start.

That said, no one builds a car like I do so when I get my 3.5 it is getting taken a part completely
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Old 09-27-2008, 02:56 AM   #13
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its a good idea to pre build for the novice
but you are best striping it down
then rebiuld it
i found a spacer missing from the rh hub to wishbone 1mm & only a 2mm & 1mm spacer inboard wishbone rh again builder having off day
also couldnt find outwhat oil used in shocks when prebuilt

anyway
run it for 1st time last night (ware herts)
very free
run near madison vegas set-up
only difference 1mm on rear hub top (not 4mm)
car was good but loose on rear
but as grip came up&up&up
went long base (car starting to grip roll}
then 18ilbs green ft springs16lbs blue rear (car starting to grip roll}
grip still coming up went
45wt front oil
car grip rolling ??????
drove final easying of in corners where grip roll occurred counldnt push car
just drove it on the edge the whole race didnt roll it 3rd to 1st

any ideas
roll centre??
pistons /oil??
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Old 09-27-2008, 06:01 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dean-oz View Post
its a good idea to pre build for the novice
but you are best striping it down
then rebiuld it
i found a spacer missing from the rh hub to wishbone 1mm & only a 2mm & 1mm spacer inboard wishbone rh again builder having off day
Nobody wants the car built on a friday afternoon before a long weekend.
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Old 09-27-2008, 06:20 AM   #15
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For the traction rolling.

40w #3 front w/ 18# springs. Stand shock up to outside hole on the tower. I also run 4mm of droop above ride height front and back. I set my arms at 2 on the hudy droop block gauges. Stay with Jimmy's roll centers.

Give this a try.
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