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Old 09-14-2003, 05:57 PM   #1
bt
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Default reedy mvp

trying to rebuild reedy mvp can anyone tellme how the shims locate there are two thin shims and one thicker shim it is the thicker shim that i am wondering what end it goes on any help would be appreciated
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Old 09-14-2003, 06:28 PM   #2
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If the thicker shim is a brown colored one it goes on the side the comm is on.
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Old 09-14-2003, 08:10 PM   #3
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HeY!!!

like trinity said if it's brown then put up on top prolly where the comm is and then one one bottom. u put the brown thinker one on first by comm then a small one.
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Old 09-14-2003, 08:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by JoshR 85
HeY!!!

like trinity said if it's brown then put up on top prolly where the comm is and then one one bottom. u put the brown thinker one on first by comm then a small one.
u need to reword that becuase some ppl would get confused. also i found out after u have it put together make sure to use shocky dioads and capacitor. for my mvp if kept it from acting weird, kinda like when u get a radio hit but the motor breaks periodicly on the strait away.
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Old 09-14-2003, 08:49 PM   #5
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Default not the brown one

no its not the brown one its three metal bushes one is thicker where does it go
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Old 09-14-2003, 09:04 PM   #6
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It does not really matter if there is no Brown, Just put the arm in the can and put it together, spin the arm then move it back and forth to see which side needs shims, put some shims in and repeat till the arm is in the center of the can. The you'll be flyinnnnnnn
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Old 09-14-2003, 09:11 PM   #7
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Thanks teamAE iget what you saying except, once its in the can there is no way it will spin free
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Old 09-14-2003, 09:51 PM   #8
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any ideas
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Old 09-14-2003, 09:58 PM   #9
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Default Motor shimming

The number of shims is irrelevant.

What you want to do is have the Armature center itself in the Magnetic Field of the Can. With approximately .004-.005 clearance in both directions (total .008-.010) for a Bushing Motor.

Any less and there will not be enough clearance when the Armature expands from heat. Too much, the Armature moves around in the can excessively and will un-seat the brushes causing a loss of Power.

The large Fibre Washer is to stop any possible arcing between the Com and Endbell Bushing or Bearing.
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Old 09-16-2003, 12:44 PM   #10
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pops youre correct and on the money
pops know best!
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Old 09-16-2003, 02:01 PM   #11
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pops, i was assuming he only had 3 shims in his motor as listed and thats generally where the shims go.
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Old 09-16-2003, 02:18 PM   #12
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Default Motor Shimming

Guys;

I had many an EPIC Motor (P2K, MS, etc.) that had zero clearance on the Endbell with just the Fiber Washer and 1 thin Shim installed.

What I've done in the past is to remove the Endbell Bushing and lap the inside face down far enough to provide me with an acceptable clearance.

Some People might recommend a tighter endplay clearance, but I've found that Power and RPM is severely reduced by doing so.
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Old 09-16-2003, 02:20 PM   #13
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correct pops, it will bind otherwise
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Old 09-17-2003, 06:58 AM   #14
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i've recently started giving my motor a bit more play when i build it. though it was an entirely new motor, it did run extremely well. i am curious though.

why does the armature expand more than the can causing binding? is it an extreme temperature difference between the two? assuming both the arm and the can are some type of ferrous material, i can't find a reason that one would expand .008 - .010 more than the other. infact, that seems like an extreme amount of expansion for an increase of less than 130*F.

can someone help?
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Old 09-17-2003, 08:25 AM   #15
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seaball - My Mvp comes off a 5 min qualifier at about 183F, that's with a 6.5 overall on a mid sized track(not overgeared at all). I'm sure it expands quite a bit. I'm running three thin fiber washers on the pinion end and on the comm end I'm running the large fiber washer and another thin fiber washer. I'm seeing good performance throughout a whole run.
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