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Old 10-26-2003, 05:17 PM
  #31  
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Man its been a while...and i am having a few problems

When trying to get my car going, the pinion wont spin the spur gear, and the pinion is chewing it up. Since the car has double one ways, im assuming that my motor is spinning the wrong way, which is why the berings wont spin(isnt it true that one way berings lock up when being spun the opposite direction???)



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Old 10-26-2003, 07:22 PM
  #32  
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your gear mesh is set too loose, get a new spur and set it properly....
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Old 10-27-2003, 07:28 PM
  #33  
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If anything i think i set the gear mesh a little too tight...when i tried one of my other motors, it spun the spur gear, so i think i rebuilt my monster stock wrong...thanx for your help thought!!!
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Old 11-17-2003, 05:50 PM
  #34  
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I was wondering what i could do to get rid of some spur gear movement. At first there was an aluminum plate that i would screw the screws thorugh to hold the spur gear on. So i decided to take it off and that took away some movement. I was wondering if i could drill 2 more holes into my spur so that the spur gear would be a little more secure?
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Old 11-18-2003, 06:27 PM
  #35  
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It may be that my spur is a little stripped......and i lost the manual to my GM V12...i am wondering if anyone knows how to set up the esc on turbo mode, and how to do the other things...i was reading the manual, and remember that there was something to do with what order you should disconnect the wires in...or doesnt it make a difference?
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Old 11-19-2003, 02:49 PM
  #36  
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GM 12 manual
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Old 11-19-2003, 06:19 PM
  #37  
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so if i understand this right....after you enter the set up mode, say i wanted to enter brake max...i would just press the button 3 times and after the LED went off, i would just press the button 1-10 times to set BRAKEMAX at the level i want??
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Old 11-20-2003, 01:49 AM
  #38  
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Dont, aint got one myself... If you dont get an answer, try search for GM12 threads, alternatively, start a new one.
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Old 11-22-2003, 09:54 PM
  #39  
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Originally posted by TexRacer
One tip I can give you on carpet is Penquin R/C makes some lowering plates for the old Pro 2.I have seen guys with this car use those and adapt them to the GM car.But in all honesty guys.Those cars you saw were NOT production type cars.If I remeber right the chassis's were shorter to turn better and the rear arm layout was different than what you could buy.I remeber reading that on one of the foreign websites a while back.The Stock kit had alot of complaints about PUSH from hell and that it was always wanting to come around on carpet no matter what you did.I hope he does well with the car but instead of just driving I think he's going to do more fighting the car if you know what i mean.I like Rare Cars Myself but I like to have an idea or somewhat someone to share tips with.My favorite of these type cars is the Kawada SV-10.I did very well with this car.But parts support and setup help got bad in a hurry.I wish him Luck and hopes he has LOTS of fun because thats what its all about.

So u are saying that the chassis was shorter on the non production cars?? Becasue I was thinking about this today. i could possible move the whole rear assemble about a quarter or half an inch forward. the only thing that i am worried about is that there are a few holes pretty close to where i want to move the rear end up and redrill the holes?? Is there anything i can do to fill in the holes? I would probobly also need a belt tensor right???becasue the belt would be to loose? I have an extra chassis which came with my purchase and might experiment with the one on my car after it gets worn out a little to bad.
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Old 11-26-2003, 08:37 PM
  #40  
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I heard that if you fill the holes with CA glue, that you can drill into the CA...is this true?? Also, I just got my GMVIS Commander today, and it didnt come with bannana plugs to charge batteries with...the person that sold me the charger said that i could get some from radio shack...is this true? if so, what kind would i need? Or does anyone else know another brand that sells banna clips? Do you think i could order them directly from GM??

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Old 12-21-2003, 05:35 PM
  #41  
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I have a question about servo savers in general. I dissasembled my entire car, and i didnt record how tight or lose my servo saver was before it was taken apart. So i am wondering if that is one of the first thigs i should adjust on my car, then other things like camber, etc. Does anyone kind of understand?

For example, say my car was understeering, and i knew that my servo saver might not have been as tight as before, should i first adjust the servo saver to make it harder, or should i mess around with toe angles and that kind of stuff. Does anyone understand??
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Old 12-22-2003, 01:36 AM
  #42  
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Basically no, you always want the servo to have full power. Set the servo saver so that it gives you full power all the time, but not too tight. You want it to *give* in a crash so you don't strip your servo gears.
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Old 12-22-2003, 11:48 AM
  #43  
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But how do i find the "perfect" setting for my servo saver? Like, how would i know if i set my servo saver not to tight, but not to soft? Like i have just a standard hitech servo, how do i know if i am getting full power from my servo saver?
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Old 12-23-2003, 06:31 PM
  #44  
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I was wondering if these would work to charge my batteries on my GM VIS Commander?Hobbico Alligator clips w/banana plugs They seem like they would work, but would they do the job?
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Old 01-18-2004, 07:26 PM
  #45  
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I was wondering how performance would be altered between using 24mm, 26mm, 28mm, and 30mm foams. I have some 28mm Jaco foams and I didnt know if there was an advantage to having a wider tire. Im guessing better traction?
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