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Old 09-15-2008, 11:23 AM   #1
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Default Tekin Redline Sensored 10.5 Motor

Yes I just pick up the 10.5 no manual.Iwant to know the FDR to start with.
I was told for all 10.5 motors to start as close as i can to 5.0 and go from there..
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Old 09-15-2008, 11:27 AM   #2
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Yes I just pick up the 10.5 no manual.Iwant to know the FDR to start with.
I was told for all 10.5 motors to start as close as i can to 5.0 and go from there..
5.2 is a safe FDR to start
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Old 09-15-2008, 02:35 PM   #3
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what size track
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Old 09-15-2008, 04:11 PM   #4
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what size track
Hi Jeff, it's an outdoor asphalt w/ 140ft straight...
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Old 09-15-2008, 04:12 PM   #5
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Yes I just pick up the 10.5 no manual.Iwant to know the FDR to start with.
I was told for all 10.5 motors to start as close as i can to 5.0 and go from there..
Hey Brian, why are you asking about FDR if you refuse to run the car
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Old 05-08-2009, 09:06 AM   #6
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I recieved the 10.5 today, but i noticed that the 3 screws on the front are not flush with the front plate. Mounted in the car only the screws are in contact with the motormount (car), this result in a not optimal heat conduction.

Can i remove the top of the screws to avoid contact?
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Last edited by C van der Hagen; 05-10-2009 at 12:29 PM.
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Old 05-08-2009, 09:49 AM   #7
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I recieved the 10.5 today, but i noticed that the 3 screws on the front are not flush with the front plate. Mounted in the car only the screws are in cantact with the motormount (car), this result in a not optimal heat conduction.

Can i remove the top of the screws to avoid contact?
I replaced mine with button screws. It's an odd design decision for sure.
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Old 05-08-2009, 06:01 PM   #8
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We had not caught that. They were flush

We will call it 'proportional point loaded seismic dampening system', PPLSDS for short.

Looks like we need to adjust the endbell cut depth where screws are, or the screw heads got larger which I doubt. We are on it and it will be fixed in the next round of motors.

Checking all my older motors they are flush. Some of the newer motors are not. It appears this just came up and the machining varies some. Thank you for the heads up. We will get everything back in spec and replace any endbells that are severely off and causing problems.

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Old 05-08-2009, 07:03 PM   #9
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We will call it 'proportional point loaded seismic dampening system', PPLSDS for short.
ROFL. Good to see a rep having a good bit of fun
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Old 05-09-2009, 09:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C van der Hagen View Post
I recieved the 10.5 today, but i noticed that the 3 screws on the front are not flush with the front plate. Mounted in the car only the screws are in cantact with the motormount (car), this result in a not optimal heat conduction.

Can i remove the top of the screws to avoid contact?
Ditto for me
All of my screws are metric, so its a bit more of a challenge to replace them.
Cheers
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Old 08-14-2009, 12:12 PM   #11
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How does the timing on the motr from the factory compare to other manufactures?

The notch on the plastic endbell is lined up with 14deg as marked on the can.

Should I leave it and undergear it or put it to 0 then start gearing as normal?

Thanks
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Old 08-14-2009, 12:41 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
How does the timing on the motr from the factory compare to other manufactures?

The notch on the plastic endbell is lined up with 14deg as marked on the can.

Should I leave it and undergear it or put it to 0 then start gearing as normal?

Thanks
Skiddins
It's standard on 12

I drove it with 12 on the motor and my Tekin RS Pro with Turbo and lipo.
I geared it on a big track on 6,3FDR
15 Boost and max Turbo.
The other drivers used a FDR of 5,7 or lower.
Only 1 SPX with 10,5 LRP was using 5,7FDR, all the others used 5,2FDR and the TC drivers 4,7FDR.

I gear my motor lighter than the others because than the Tekin is faster.

You can also set it to 0 on the motor.
Than you have some more acceleration power.
On big tracks I like more timing on the motor but the smaller tracks or tracks with a tight infield I use a lower till 0 motor timing.
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Old 08-16-2009, 05:44 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C van der Hagen View Post
I recieved the 10.5 today, but i noticed that the 3 screws on the front are not flush with the front plate. Mounted in the car only the screws are in contact with the motormount (car), this result in a not optimal heat conduction.

Can i remove the top of the screws to avoid contact?
Received the tekin 10.5t yesterday and it got the same thing. The screws werend flush with the front plate and another thing was that two of the screw holes where the motor mount screws go had small burrs in them
No big problem, I changed the screws in buttonhead screws on the front plate and i carefully cut the burrs off with a knife. The motor mount screws could get in perfect afterwards but at first it looked a little sloppy when i received the motor. For the rest the motor looks pretty. Haven't tried the motor yet.
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Old 08-16-2009, 10:00 PM   #14
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We will call it 'proportional point loaded seismic dampening system', PPLSDS for short.

PPLs what??? Jim you need to get out of the office for a day and go ride your mtn bike up a hill!!!! LOL Jim are you and randy comin down for the tri-state? Utah is gonna put a whoopin on you ho's (IDAHO's) from up north
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Old 08-20-2009, 03:08 AM   #15
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Hi,
This might be a little off topic but I have just picked up a 17.5 Tekin Redline motor and wondering what gearing should I start with. The Novak site says their 17.5 to gear it at 3.5 FDR is that correct or close to the mark............
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