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Old 02-13-2005, 10:49 PM   #1096
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Default pinion

I'm still running 27/52. I haven't even tried my 28 yet. I'll post on this thread when I do and let you know how it worked.
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Old 02-14-2005, 01:41 AM   #1097
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I have a mojor's problem with under steer in both TB02's that I own. I only have the stock supinion that it comes with. What is the easiest was to fix this? it's on a very tight track.


Thanks for the help

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Old 02-14-2005, 03:49 AM   #1098
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Quote:
Originally posted by MDL
I have a mojor's problem with under steer in both TB02's that I own. I only have the stock supinion that it comes with. What is the easiest was to fix this? it's on a very tight track.


Thanks for the help

MDL
I'd try adjusting the servo travel to max, alternatively fit softer springs at the front
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Old 02-14-2005, 07:45 AM   #1099
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Quote:
Originally posted by Liko
All I can suggest is slightly more camber (so you don't get an edge of the tire biting in on carpet; on flat surfaces "pulling under" the outside rim means you understeer), lower ride height, and stiffer shocks like you said.
Thanks for the tips!! I have been looking at rubber tire set-ups for RDX and XRays since I cannot find any printed tb02 set-ups and it seems one thing i notice is a low-flat-long rear camber link. Why is that?
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Old 02-15-2005, 10:31 AM   #1100
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Default EvoIII to TB02

Aside from the chassis and steering link, what other parts do I need to convert an EvoIIISL to TB02?
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Old 02-15-2005, 10:56 AM   #1101
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The motor mount and there's one bearing in front of the spur gear that's a different diameter as well.
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Old 02-15-2005, 12:34 PM   #1102
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Driver Gary
The motor mount and there's one bearing in front of the spur gear that's a different diameter as well.
um.. he'll need the tub, and a part tree that has the braces. unless you have a TB-02 kit already?

question was sort of vague.
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Old 02-15-2005, 01:36 PM   #1103
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OK, The 27 is the highest tamiya makes in the .6 module pinion gears. The 28 and more be VERY carefull, most are not correct. It must say metric or .6 type gear!!!

As for helping to get steering. I lower the front 1/2 mm this is the best to add enough steering for most of the tracks I have run.

Ray. Damn. As stated earlier, on carpet use at least 1.5 ft, and 2 rr camber. You need to take away steering. Make sure the shocks are as stood up as possible. The rear out on tower, and maybe try the inner or outer on arm. If that is already done, take away some of the spacers under inner upper link in front.

Kevin
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Old 02-15-2005, 01:40 PM   #1104
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Kevin-my guess on set-up was as far from what you described as possible. My shocks are leaned in, way in and my front camber link is long and high on the inner,

Man-talk about being in the dark.

Thanks so much,
Ray
p.s I will be calling soon-I need to buy more tires, pinions, spurs, etc....
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Old 02-15-2005, 05:40 PM   #1105
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Yeah, for carpet, most cars like to have the shocks more or less straight up and down. When you lay the shocks down, its more to control the car in big sweeping corners. Have you ever looked at the 1/8th scale cars. The shocks are almost flat. Their tracks usualy have no "hairpins" like what you see on carpet, and the corners are really swept wide.
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Old 02-15-2005, 05:42 PM   #1106
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Try going back to the setup I had on the car when you got it. That should be close. The only difference would probably be harder springs.
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Old 02-15-2005, 06:01 PM   #1107
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
Kevin-my guess on set-up was as far from what you described as possible. My shocks are leaned in, way in and my front camber link is long and high on the inner,

Man-talk about being in the dark.

Thanks so much,
Ray
p.s I will be calling soon-I need to buy more tires, pinions, spurs, etc....
hey ray.. kevin is right. the ONE TIME i raced on carpet... my set up was the same (TRF415/EvoIV). all i did was change my springs from yellow/yellow... to white/white... and i think i ran a few packs with gray/gray. Tamiya springs of course.

kevin whats up! how you doin dude?
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Old 02-15-2005, 06:16 PM   #1108
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Quote:
Originally posted by dsrbltoys
Try going back to the setup I had on the car when you got it. That should be close. The only difference would probably be harder springs.
I wish I remembered what it was as I thought of that!! I know where the rear link was, but not the front or where the shocks were.

Thanks Hebiki.
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Old 02-15-2005, 06:38 PM   #1109
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I'm sellin my TB02. Hopups include: Aluminum steering, front universals, surikarn shock towers, ssg brace, aluminum motor mount, and front one way. This thing is assembled but never run. make offer.
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Old 02-15-2005, 07:26 PM   #1110
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Hey chris, not much, just chillin, eatn' a ham sammish!!! oh thats a seattle thing Sorry.

Ray, ok here goes.

front 50-60 wt 3hole piston
outer on tower, inner on arm
upper link in middle hole with 5mm under inner
std 4 deg upright
a blocks in front and rear
Steering link in outer hole on knuckle (make sure you have c1 and a c2) not two c1's or two c2's

rear 40-50wt 3hole piston
outer on tower usually outer on arm, but sometimes inner on arm
upper link in middle hole, with no spacers under inner link
if your using 2 deg upright then a a block if 1 deg upright maybe a c blocks

Inside like whites or so, outside start with yellow
yellow sways ft and rear if needed
start with 1 ft, and 1.5 rr camber
tires, inserts, and compound to suit track

Start with 5mm ride height front and rear, if you need more steering lower front, or raise rear. BUT only .5mm difference

droop is also critical. The most effective way I found, is to measure ride height, then lift chassis till the tires are just touching surface (make sure batt, and motor are in car) then recheck ride height. I usually don't run less than 1 mm uptravel, in front, but up to 3mm. and in rear not less than 2mm uptravel, and not more that 5mm (the spring should not have much if any up down travel when the chassis is OFF the ground).

good luck
Kevin
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