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Old 06-29-2006, 09:25 PM   #1696
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from the first we built the TB-02, the factory set up for those chamber is about 1' for all 4 wheels & 0' for front toe in.
it's not easy to convert the millimeters to degree, and not accurate at all. i think you should buy a chamber gauge for your investment..it's worth it.
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Old 07-04-2006, 09:16 AM   #1697
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The only way to accurately set-up your car is with a setup station, I use the Hudy All in One, which is fantastic.
If your budget doesn't run to that, then at least get a camber guage and ride height guage.
The problem I could not overcome without a setup station was setting Toe In on the front (rear is set by suspension mount/hub carrier). Nothing worked and untill I got the setup station I could only do a visual front toe setting, which I was never happy with.
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Old 07-18-2006, 09:02 PM   #1698
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uh ohhhhhhh! today i broke BOTH the front and rear diff screws, the one that adjusts the diff. does anyone know of a stronger replacement part for them? could i find some 2mm 25mm length diff screws at the hardware store, or should i goto my lhs to try to find some? they won't have any tamiya replacement ones im sure, but do any other companies use the same sized screw?
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Old 07-19-2006, 08:40 AM   #1699
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those may be tamiya specific diff screws.

I broke mine. too. cheap ass tamiya scews. You can try the evo 3 diff screws they may be stronger. I just bought some that havn't broke yet.

thats all I got.
good luck
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Old 07-19-2006, 10:05 AM   #1700
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okay...there are about a million pages in this thread, and after wading through about 20 of them i figured I'd just ask.

im looking to run either a ta-05 or a tb-02 with a 10T motor- on asphalt(streets, etc). i've heard conflicting opinions about which to get; some say the tb because the ta picks up rocks and stuff; others say get the ta because belt's are easier with low turn motors. btw, i'm new to hobby level cars (building them at least) but i'm an engineer and have been doing other r/c stuff and some fast low end cars (20-25mph) pretty much forever. I'm also trying to find what speed controller to get- because I dont know what will fit- i was looking at the duratrax 8T.


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Old 07-19-2006, 10:13 AM   #1701
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For your first 'propper' car, I would suggest a 19t first, a 10 would be quite scary in a TC car.

As for the cars, they share the same suspension, so it is down to the drivetrain. I prefer the TA-05 as it is smoother, but more maintenance, the TB-02 is low/no maintenance.
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Old 07-19-2006, 12:17 PM   #1702
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Get the TA05 for low turn motor.
The TB02 cannot take the power, I have one and a strong stock motor is pushing it. I already broke a diff screw and have had problems with the bevel gears.
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Old 07-19-2006, 04:09 PM   #1703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nagatahawk
those may be tamiya specific diff screws.

I broke mine. too. cheap ass tamiya scews. You can try the evo 3 diff screws they may be stronger. I just bought some that havn't broke yet.

thats all I got.
good luck
where could i find evo3 diff screws? would i have to buy the entire diff just to get the 1 screw?
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Old 07-19-2006, 06:01 PM   #1704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSJChar
where could i find evo3 diff screws? would i have to buy the entire diff just to get the 1 screw?
Same screw EVO or TB02
You can go to a local screw house and ask for a 2mm x 25mm socket head cap screw might be a better screw. Or change to the EVO 3 diff joints I think the the spring under the nut is better than under the thrust bearing.
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Old 07-19-2006, 06:11 PM   #1705
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alright thanks for the help. i actually went to the screw/nut specialists in town today and they don't have anything close to the measurements. has anyone tried using the hpi diff screws as a replacement? theyre the same measurement and i think it actually might be stronger because its not threaded nearly as much and so has more meat to it. also turns out theyre cheaper and it seems to be easier to find. im gonna ask the local onroad guys to see if they have any hpi diff screws i could try. if it turns out that they do and it works, then boy, will i ever be lucky.
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Old 07-19-2006, 08:31 PM   #1706
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what are you using when you brake these screws.

The same screw is in the TB02, EvoIII and EvoIV. I've got a TB02 and EvoIV and never brocken screw.
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Old 07-19-2006, 10:17 PM   #1707
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I'm using a p2k2 when my screws broke. ive actually heard of alot of people braking them, maybe thats why tamiya released a new screw set for it? hopefully theyre stronger than the old discontinued diff screws. i dont think the screw broke WHILE it was moving either. i stopped during a turn to let another car pass safely, but when i went back on the throttle it was pooched. im guessing it snapped from going from nothing to 75-80% throttle, that sudden jolt. the thing is, all i do is drift and so the tires i used weren't grippy at all, so i dont think there was much resistance so i dont see why the diff screw would brake so easily. both my screw broke at the exact same place, right where the threading started.
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Old 07-20-2006, 12:58 AM   #1708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSJChar
I'm using a p2k2 when my screws broke. ive actually heard of alot of people braking them, maybe thats why tamiya released a new screw set for it? hopefully theyre stronger than the old discontinued diff screws. i dont think the screw broke WHILE it was moving either. i stopped during a turn to let another car pass safely, but when i went back on the throttle it was pooched. im guessing it snapped from going from nothing to 75-80% throttle, that sudden jolt. the thing is, all i do is drift and so the tires i used weren't grippy at all, so i dont think there was much resistance so i dont see why the diff screw would brake so easily. both my screw broke at the exact same place, right where the threading started.
I have seen quite a few broken screws. I have never broke one myself, but then I build the diff correctly. The trust bearing sits on the head of the screw, if the tappered inner race is in on the screw head side all is good, if the square inner side in on the screw head side that usually mean a broken diff bolt.
As for a new screw kit?? well Tamiya changed the part # but did nothing to the screw.
As for screw places, I bought screws for our hobby shop, cost was less than $16.00 for the box of 100, 2mm x 25mm socket head cap screws
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Old 07-20-2006, 01:54 AM   #1709
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I snapped one on Tuesday night, that bolt lasted me about 10 months and it only snapped as I was using a sstupidly powerful motor on a very tight track. 10turn on a track using 11:1 gearing
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Old 07-20-2006, 08:19 AM   #1710
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Default diff screw

I broke mine racing at the TCS last year, but I put a lot of uneccessary pressure on the diff assembly because I used to long of screw on the rear anti roll bar holder. the screw rubbed against the diff housing and melted it into a lump. I'll recheck the position of the thrust screw just to be safe. thanks.
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