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Old 09-08-2008, 05:14 PM   #16
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I think it's the donuts freezing them that is causing the problems.
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Old 09-08-2008, 07:13 PM   #17
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It could be that some of the drivers are driving to hard and causing higher temps. That causes the rotor to weaken. Once a rotor is weak the motor will run much hotter. Plus most of your racers are running lipo's and not stopping at the 5:30 min mark or 6 min. But driving longer and causing more heat damage to the rotor.

It seems when you cool the motor you are masking the real problem of a weak rotor. These need to be changed more often. I know randy has a Gauss meter of some type to check. I would be interested as to what the readings are after a motor has thermaled a few times.

I had a Novak 3.5 with a new 13mm rotor. I had the motor geared properly and 4 runs the motor ran well. On the 5th through 10th run the motor would thermal every run. I took the rotor out and it hardly had any magnetism. I sent the rotor back to Novak and they sent me a new one. Great service from Novak.
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Old 09-08-2008, 07:24 PM   #18
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I am very interested to know how many failures were from each manufacturer. I would be willing to bet the vast majority were Orion motors. Very disapointing to know that Orion knew there was a problem with their latest motors and did nothing about it, except keep selling them.
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Old 09-08-2008, 07:26 PM   #19
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what happens when a bearing fails? Seize and burn up? A lot of these were new or lightly used motors.
I had a bad bearing in one of my handouts at Vegas. It was just slow all week and made a loud noise at low speed's in the car. It kinda sounded like a motor with no sensor wire. At full speed you didnt hear it much but it was .5 a lap slower on the track than a motor with good bearings.

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Old 09-08-2008, 07:35 PM   #20
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I am very interested to know how many failures were from each manufacturer. I would be willing to bet the vast majority were Orion motors. Very disapointing to know that Orion knew there was a problem with their latest motors and did nothing about it, except keep selling them.
I am sue Tim can chime in here, but I believe mostly Novak and Losi motors. The hobby shop does not normally carry Orion motors. I do not know if I ever saw an Orion bl motor in stock there.
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Old 09-08-2008, 07:37 PM   #21
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I had a bad bearing in one of my handouts at Vegas. It was just slow all week and made a loud noise at low speed's in the car. It kinda sounded like a motor with no sensor wire. At full speed you didnt hear it much but it was .5 a lap slower on the track than a motor with good bearings.

EA
Yeah nice excuse, that's a new one I have not heard

Are you going to the Xray challenge in Jonesboro?
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Old 09-08-2008, 07:39 PM   #22
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I am very interested to know how many failures were from each manufacturer. I would be willing to bet the vast majority were Orion motors. Very disapointing to know that Orion knew there was a problem with their latest motors and did nothing about it, except keep selling them.
I think only 1 person runs an Orion motor at our track. I think the majority have been Losi and Hacker followed by Novak. But that is also what is mostly ran at our track.

Kevin, some of the motors were a day old and had never thermalled. I have a feeling something is just shorting out in there. I've been very fortunate (knock on wood).
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Old 09-08-2008, 07:43 PM   #23
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Yeah nice excuse, that's a new one I have not heard

Are you going to the Xray challenge in Jonesboro?
Yea it was in my GT car. Motor got over 200 degrees every time on the track. Everyone elses was in the 130 range. Took it to tech and the seized up bearing was found on the endbell end (Sealed motors). Got a new motor and picked up .5 a lap instantly....but was still .15 a lap off!! LOL

I am supposed to work that weekend so I doubt I'll be able to make it.

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Old 09-08-2008, 08:15 PM   #24
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I would tend to think that mayb you guys have just been unlucky. It may just be that you track is hard on motors (large tracks mean you spend more time at high rpms)

I did some motor testing last weekend to compare performance. On a open track I ran 3 3.5t on 5cell till they dumped to compare on track runtime as well as performance. All 3 ran just over 7 mins and went strong to the end. Hottest motor after a run was the LRP (98c/209f) though this motor always runs hot. Even though they were hot all three motors did same lap times until the very final lap. I would say that as long as its not burning hot the temp has very little effect on brushless motors.
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Old 09-08-2008, 09:11 PM   #25
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it could be the motors it self, as I ran 5.0 on my 11.5 at my large hot local track for two month and motor still survive......
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Old 09-08-2008, 10:18 PM   #26
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I am amazed that a guy has managed to go through 10 motors and not figure out what is going wrong. I would have thought you would start to try find the cause after killing a couple, rather than continuing on destroying motors.
The logical thing to do would be not use the motor cooler/air spray and see how that goes.
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Old 09-09-2008, 12:03 AM   #27
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I am amazed that a guy has managed to go through 10 motors and not figure out what is going wrong. I would have thought you would start to try find the cause after killing a couple, rather than continuing on destroying motors.
The logical thing to do would be not use the motor cooler/air spray and see how that goes.
Its funny you say that.. I tried the freeze spray years ago and found no real difference. I don't bother with heatsinks much either. Its more how you use your motor that generates heat but that said.. some motors do run hot no matter what you do.
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Old 09-09-2008, 01:11 AM   #28
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me neither, I never use any form of motor cooling method, just make sure my motor is clean and the bearings are super smooth.....
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Old 09-09-2008, 06:44 AM   #29
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I am amazed that a guy has managed to go through 10 motors and not figure out what is going wrong. I would have thought you would start to try find the cause after killing a couple, rather than continuing on destroying motors.
The logical thing to do would be not use the motor cooler/air spray and see how that goes.
The guy has been racing for a very long time and is better at racing then I or most of us will ever be. I think he went through the course most would take by switching out electronics, etc then playing with gearing. I think he probably thought well if my motor is is burning up then I must need to cool it. I hope this is the answer. Im sure he will be grateful to find it.
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Old 09-09-2008, 06:53 AM   #30
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Also beware of under gearing. I personnally have seen some motors get really hot and seize from that. Being way over reved, That will heat it up a ton also. I know at some tracks I have run,I have geared up and dropped 20* at times....
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