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Old 09-11-2008, 09:49 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
kevin, sounds like a good idea, but i would like to talk in person so i can give a honest answer.

Or8ital, i have a couple ride height gauges, i just cut them shorter as i have never used the 1,2, 3mm part to measure anything
Not a bad idea. How do you make sure you are always measuring at the same place though? A lip or groove would be a nice addition if possible.
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Old 09-11-2008, 12:54 PM   #47
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Not a bad idea. How do you make sure you are always measuring at the same place though? A lip or groove would be a nice addition if possible.
Not sure about where you set your droop to, but with mine I checked a couple locations and the arms are fairly straight at my droop settings, so slight movement one side to the other didn't effect the height much. Was yours for the TC5? Also I used the thin Integy gage and it seemed to repeat quite well each check.

If you check at the axles, it would matter even less. I may toy with that a bit and see how it works out. I'll chat with you on it also Ritchie.
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Old 09-11-2008, 01:03 PM   #48
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Not sure about where you set your droop to, but with mine I checked a couple locations and the arms are fairly straight at my droop settings, so slight movement one side to the other didn't effect the height much. Was yours for the TC5? Also I used the thin Integy gage and it seemed to repeat quite well each check.

If you check at the axles, it would matter even less. I may toy with that a bit and see how it works out. I'll chat with you on it also Ritchie.
Depends how much droop you are running. If you limit the droop quite a bit (say to 2mm over ride height) then from side to side there is about 1mm difference. But on top of that the shape of the arm itself starts to come into play depending where you measure it. If there was a lip you could always run the droop guage along then you would at least know you are measuring at the same place every time. You will still probably need to cut your ride height guage so it wouldn't start to run into things. Assuming you dont need those measurements that small.

It will get the job done now but I wouldn't call a precision tool in regards to droop.

Still, Im happy with it. Just offering up suggestions for future revisions even though it won't help me.
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Old 09-11-2008, 08:24 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
Depends how much droop you are running. If you limit the droop quite a bit (say to 2mm over ride height) then from side to side there is about 1mm difference. But on top of that the shape of the arm itself starts to come into play depending where you measure it. If there was a lip you could always run the droop guage along then you would at least know you are measuring at the same place every time. You will still probably need to cut your ride height guage so it wouldn't start to run into things. Assuming you dont need those measurements that small.

It will get the job done now but I wouldn't call a precision tool in regards to droop.

Still, Im happy with it. Just offering up suggestions for future revisions even though it won't help me.

OK...I took the challenge.

After setting droop side to side from the arms in the same visual spot, I removed the wheels, and used a surface gage and dial indicator at the axle.
Results-- Front side to side error .011 (.27mm) and rear was .006 (.15mm). Also consider that the C-hubs and mount bushings, camber ect. can throw those out so IMO that is pretty accurate compared to other droop check methods I've used. Pushing tire and lifting bulkhead, or trying to hold the gage under chassis then measure out to arms end for me has far less accurate results...maybe others have better ways.

(I double checked the readings at end of arms with indicator and was better in the front and just .001 worse in the rear...so with that camber and hubs are out of the equation...that puts accuracy within .007 max or just under .15mm)

Also, I recomended the integy gage in instructions as it is narrow and starts at 3mm and will not run into something before gage hits arm. It could stand to be cut off at the wide end as that hits chassis on one side, but without doing that I got the above results.

First make sure clamps are at the far outside corners. Then with a thin gage, check rear droop by sliding under arm (thin end of gage to front of car), then pull sideways against the lower shock mount (gage was inside of shock mount), then slide gage in to contact arm. Bumping against shock mount, and keeping gage straight gets you on the same spot on the arm for both sides.

Front-- slide the gage against the inside of the wheel using wheel as the guide and check there (thin end of gage to front of car)...again--hits the same spot on arm that way.

I have considered a scribe line for a visual guide, but since people have different gages, I wasn't comfortable cutting those for just one certain gage width. Another option is a fine tip sharpie that you put your own scribe line in and you can measure back to the plate with RC off. Hope this helps.
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Last edited by Verndog; 09-11-2008 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 09-11-2008, 08:42 PM   #50
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What do you mean by side to side? Wouldn't it change based on how much droop you are running? Also doesnt the arm get thicker near the shock mounts? Or are you saying right side vs left side?

If you machined out like a 3/4" track for a guage it would probably fit most. People with a narrow guage could pick a side to run it against.

I did mind without tires. I will see how the tires as a guide work.
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Old 09-11-2008, 09:06 PM   #51
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What do you mean by side to side? Wouldn't it change based on how much droop you are running? Also doesnt the arm get thicker near the shock mounts? Or are you saying right side vs left side?

If you machined out like a 3/4" track for a guage it would probably fit most. People with a narrow guage could pick a side to run it against.

I did mind without tires. I will see how the tires as a guide work.
Yes...left side vs. right side. What we are attempting to do is get accurate droop that can be tracked for change. When we increase 1/2mm does it move 1/2mm and is the left side and right side the same. I believe those are the important measurments we are looking for. I will upload a couple of pics to show check.

Yes...arms get bigger near the shocks, but bumping the shock mount should keep it just clear of the arm bump viewing with flashlight.
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Old 09-11-2008, 09:14 PM   #52
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Here are the indicator readings I got adjusting as described.


The thing I dont like about cutting the slot is you are checking droop off chassis like some tend to check now. Checking in a slot throws the measurment off by that amount and now the numbers cannot relate back to someone without the PPD plate.
Attached Thumbnails
PPD TC setup plates. TC5, Mi3, Xray, Cyclone and ??-img_0001.jpg   PPD TC setup plates. TC5, Mi3, Xray, Cyclone and ??-img_0002.jpg  
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Old 09-11-2008, 09:22 PM   #53
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Keep me posted if you make one for the corally... If you need anything let me know...
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Old 09-11-2008, 10:22 PM   #54
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Yes...left side vs. right side. What we are attempting to do is get accurate droop that can be tracked for change. When we increase 1/2mm does it move 1/2mm and is the left side and right side the same. I believe those are the important measurments we are looking for. I will upload a couple of pics to show check.

Yes...arms get bigger near the shocks, but bumping the shock mount should keep it just clear of the arm bump viewing with flashlight.
when i do check droop.... i measure under the arm where the outer hinge pin is. with the plate i will hold the gauge against the tire and use it as a guide, of course this means where i normally have 4mm of droop i will now have a different reading to use as a base. i have in the past also used a set of calipers and measured from the axle to the floor, but, you need to make sure the camber is set first. changing from say 1 degree to 2 degrees will change where the axle tip is.
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:20 AM   #55
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Got mine a on Thursday and it is GREAT! (Fastest shipping I have had from the USA!!! - ordered on Tuesday Morning and arrived at home on Thursday - from USA to Australia) It was very well packed and survived the trip over without a scratch!

Thanks Kevin!

Leonard.

P.S. I have just placed an order for the lipo side weights...hopefully they will get here just as quick!
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Old 09-12-2008, 07:56 PM   #56
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Also interested in one for the Corally PHI keep us updated !
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:16 PM   #57
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Ordered a TC5 setup plate on Monday morning and it arrived in Melbourne, Australia on Friday. Thanks Kevin.

This is a seriously sweet piece of gear and quite possibly one of my best investments to date. It works as advertised and the fit and finish is first rate.

If you can somehow figure out a way to make a universal version it will sell like hotcakes.
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:47 PM   #58
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Whats up Kev this is Donny I want one for my 008 2.5mm
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Old 09-13-2008, 10:12 AM   #59
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Got mine a on Thursday and it is GREAT! (Fastest shipping I have had from the USA!!! - ordered on Tuesday Morning and arrived at home on Thursday - from USA to Australia) It was very well packed and survived the trip over without a scratch!

Thanks Kevin!

Leonard.

P.S. I have just placed an order for the lipo side weights...hopefully they will get here just as quick!
Wow...that is record time. I got it out that day but it must have hit the plane running!. I wont be able to beat that on the weights...they will ship Monday.

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Ordered a TC5 setup plate on Monday morning and it arrived in Melbourne, Australia on Friday. Thanks Kevin.

This is a seriously sweet piece of gear and quite possibly one of my best investments to date. It works as advertised and the fit and finish is first rate.

If you can somehow figure out a way to make a universal version it will sell like hotcakes.
Thank You. I've kicked around a few ideas on a universal and no matter what I need to add a bunch more holes, and hardware to make it adaptable which will raise the cost. Plus they're will always be the unique chassis that it wont fit and I'd have to deal with returns. For now... simple is better, cleaner, more effective and less $$....but I haven't given up.

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Whats up Kev this is Donny I want one for my 008 2.5mm
Hey D...I hear ya...I want one for my 007 also but I'm listening to the end users for the most need. Sounds like for now, I need to find a Cyclone...and start asking questions. I know of 2 right now I'll look into.

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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
when i do check droop.... i measure under the arm where the outer hinge pin is. with the plate i will hold the gauge against the tire and use it as a guide, of course this means where i normally have 4mm of droop i will now have a different reading to use as a base. i have in the past also used a set of calipers and measured from the axle to the floor, but, you need to make sure the camber is set first. changing from say 1 degree to 2 degrees will change where the axle tip is.
Thanks for adding that Ritchie. As I was checking mine with indicator at axle, I realised that the camber will change the reading. Ended up double checking back to outer arm....and it proved my camber was close to the same on both sides also.
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Old 09-13-2008, 02:36 PM   #60
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just a clear up something i just read in my post,


no, i don't lay on the 'FLOOR' and check droop.
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