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Old 12-17-2012, 04:46 PM   #106
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Yeah, as Terry said we run 21.5T brushless motors in our F1's - fits fine in my F102. I ought to add, that metal heatsink above is an optional extra in the sense that you can just buy a complete pod at the other link - I find that those plastic motor mounts just break almost immediately however, unless you're planning on running a silver can motor or something. I'd strongly recommend the metal motor mount, but if not ensure you use either the motor mount plate or some washers when screwing the bolts into the motor.

**Cheeky attempt to sneak in new bodyshell pictures**

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Old 01-01-2013, 12:29 AM   #107
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Got some parts on it tonight.

What I started with after removing all the 1/12th stuff:



This is after new parts:



I found the drive hex so now I will dig up some wheels. I'll be running the car on carpet, do any of the newer rubber tires work well on carpet or should I stay with foam?


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Old 01-01-2013, 07:20 AM   #108
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Originally Posted by Radi0Flyer View Post
I found the drive hex so now I will dig up some wheels. I'll be running the car on carpet, do any of the newer rubber tires work well on carpet or should I stay with foam?
If you can run foam, run them. No point trying to switch to the lower grip of rubber if you don't have to. If the next question is going to be what tyres to use, I usually prefer Tamiya HBR soft rears with HBR Med fronts.
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:00 AM   #109
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I found the drive hex so now I will dig up some wheels. I'll be running the car on carpet, do any of the newer rubber tires work well on carpet or should I stay with foam?


Sean
Hey Sean, looks good man

As for tyres, our heat has currently made a unanimous switch from foams to rubbers and I cant get the things to work at all - this thread is probably your best bet, I'll let you know as soon as I get mine to work.

As for foams, I had success with Tamiya, Zen, 3Racing and one other brand for which the name escapes me. If you're buying tyres with a shore (hardness) rating aim for something like 35 on the front and 30 on the rear - always go one compound softer on the rear is the generally accepted setup.
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:46 PM   #110
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If you can run foam, run them. No point trying to switch to the lower grip of rubber if you don't have to. If the next question is going to be what tyres to use, I usually prefer Tamiya HBR soft rears with HBR Med fronts.
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Hey Sean, looks good man

As for tyres, our heat has currently made a unanimous switch from foams to rubbers and I cant get the things to work at all - this thread is probably your best bet, I'll let you know as soon as I get mine to work.

As for foams, I had success with Tamiya, Zen, 3Racing and one other brand for which the name escapes me. If you're buying tyres with a shore (hardness) rating aim for something like 35 on the front and 30 on the rear - always go one compound softer on the rear is the generally accepted setup.
Thanks guys. I was just curious if rubber had matched or surpassed foam for traction on carpet. I will stay with foam.



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Old 01-01-2013, 03:55 PM   #111
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F103 rims will work. Initially they were the same as the old F102 rims...about the only real difference is the rear hub caps snap in now instead of screw in.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:05 PM   #112
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Finally got it all together. I threw a coat of flat black on the old body and mounted up the old and cracked Tamiya foams. I'm going to shop for new wheels and tires as well as a replacement body.







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Old 01-09-2013, 04:59 AM   #113
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Hi guys.

I have a question...I'm building up a NIB Jordan 191 kit (F101/F102) to race occasionally in F1. I know it's collectable etc...I have 2 of the same kits..gonna keep 1 new built.

I am looking at an original F101 aluminium motor mount on ebay but they are expensive. Can I use the F103 motor mount instead?

Also, I would like to use an F104 Pro style diff housing, so that the diff doesn't fall apart every time the wheel is removed. Will this work (I believe I also have to use a cabon shaft).

I have intended to run this kit for a while and have stocked up on front arms etc.

Thanks guys.

Steve
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:14 AM   #114
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I am looking at an original F101 aluminium motor mount on ebay but they are expensive. Can I use the F103 motor mount instead?
Yes, you can use an F103 motor mount.You will need to fit a middle height ride height adapter in the motor mount to match the F102 side.

Quote:
Also, I would like to use an F104 Pro style diff housing, so that the diff doesn't fall apart every time the wheel is removed. Will this work (I believe I also have to use a cabon shaft).
The F103 and F104 cars have a different offset for the rear pod, and the F103/4 diffs move the wheel out about 6mm. To use an F103 or F104 diff you will need to use an F103 rear pod and T-piece, and either the F103 battery holders or replace the rear T-piece mount with another front one as the pivot has been moved forwards.

You don't need to use a carbon axle with the F104 diff, but you do need to use an F104 specific axle as it is shorter than the F102 or F103 axle.


A simple quick fix if you aren't worried about it being race legal is to just drop in the F104 diff and space out the other side to match. Use a longer F103 axle and cut it down to length to suit. Makes it around 215mm wide at the rear but cheap.
Personally I still use F102/F103 style diffs as I adjust the diff setting and swap out spur gears much more often than I change tyres.
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:59 PM   #115
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Thankyou Terry for your generous response!

Cheers,

Steve
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Old 01-27-2013, 03:36 PM   #116
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Ran my Stealth car (flat black) at the track yesterday. I didn't have an 0.6 mod pinion to run with the new spur so I tried a Robinson with regular 48 pitch pinions. Unfortunately, that spur is thinner than stock so I was having a hard time trying spacers in different places to get the diff to work. That didn't work so well and either the diff was slipping badly or it was locked. Locked was kinda fun drifting the corners a bit. I was also running my 1/12th car so it made it easy to catch the F1 when the rear would step out. I started getting crazy with it though and tagged the wall hard. The result is something I never had happen to me.



The rotor knocked the endbell right off and I tweaked the t-plate mount a bit. The motor is an old Trinity Midnight (stock 27t brushed) so I'm not too sad about it but I hope I can straighten out the car.



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Old 01-27-2013, 04:56 PM   #117
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The rotor knocked the endbell right off and I tweaked the t-plate mount a bit. The motor is an old Trinity Midnight (stock 27t brushed) so I'm not too sad about it but I hope I can straighten out the car.
Done that with plenty of stock motors over the years, the wheel/axle/motor mount/motor can all stop dead instantly and the armature keeps on going hard enough to pop the endbell. Most were saved by rebuilding them, popping the endbell back on and tapping the tabs back in.

The T-piece pivot wears with use and especially the hole in the T-piece elongates. If you are one of those who insist on everything being perfect all the time you can buy new parts, loosening the screw, lining everything up again and re-tightening the screw will bring everything in line again. The friction between the O-ring and the fibreglass will be enough to hold everything together, you just have to check it every so often. My runner F102 has about that much movement both ways if I loosen everything, but never have a problem with it in normal use.
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