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Old 02-03-2012, 10:20 AM   #91
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got the F102 FW14B today.





as you can see, the body and wheels are in good condition as is the rear wing. the same can't be said of the chassis.

thanks to Kevin CBR i have a nice new carbon chassis on the way to remedy that. i have a new front wing on order also.

that just leaves the drivers helmet to rectify.

anyone want a Damon Hill helmet ?

Jason.
Looks great ! I see you like Damon Hill as much as I do.
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Old 02-03-2012, 10:51 AM   #92
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Originally Posted by exaturbo View Post
got the F102 FW14B today.





as you can see, the body and wheels are in good condition as is the rear wing. the same can't be said of the chassis.

thanks to Kevin CBR i have a nice new carbon chassis on the way to remedy that. i have a new front wing on order also.

that just leaves the drivers helmet to rectify.

anyone want a Damon Hill helmet ?

Jason.
You may find that standard FRP to be quite advantageous in less than hi grip situations.
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Old 02-03-2012, 06:34 PM   #93
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@ Kevin the Damon Hill helmet was with the car when I got it.

It's going to be replaced with Nigel's helmet.

@ Redbullfixx this car is destined to be a shelf queen, so the chassis type doesn't matter much. I'm just going to restore it, add the missing decals and display it.

I'll probably buy an F104W Mclaren to drive.

Jason.
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Old 02-09-2012, 07:06 PM   #94
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i got my 1990's sticker set from D-Drive today.

i also got the new chassis from kevin CBR.

now all i need is the new helmet and the FW14B will be completed.

Jason.
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:43 PM   #95
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So Im digging through some junk in the garage and i found a ziplock bag containing F102 parts, that i forgot i had. Almost enough to build a car. I cant seem to find a parts list or a manual online. It appears that im missing the pivot balls for the T Bar, how similar are they to a F103? Its been fun sorting through the mess, my F103 spares were mixed in the bag too.

Any help appreciated.
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:43 PM   #96
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So Im digging through some junk in the garage and i found a ziplock bag containing F102 parts, that i forgot i had. Almost enough to build a car. I cant seem to find a parts list or a manual online. It appears that im missing the pivot balls for the T Bar, how similar are they to a F103? Its been fun sorting through the mess, my F103 spares were mixed in the bag too.

Any help appreciated.
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:23 PM   #97
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Well, they're pretty different. The T-plate is completely different. It mounts to O-rings, not pivot balls. The front and rear bulk heads that the T-plate mounts to is nothing like the F103 stuff. If you look at the pics on the first page you can see what I'm referring to. Good luck with your hunt.
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Old 06-03-2012, 11:05 PM   #98
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The F103 T-Bar mounts on o-rings too... Its probably quite hard to get parts for the F102 now.
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Old 06-04-2012, 06:39 AM   #99
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An F102 manual can be found here.

As others have pointed out, the pivot balls are missing because they never existed on the car.
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:17 PM   #100
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Thank you very much for the replies! Been getting the F1 bug again, i have my old trusty F103 that i bought in '95...
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Old 12-16-2012, 04:27 PM   #101
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Hi all,

I just dug out an old F102 that I used to carpet race back in the day. Unfortunately the motor pod is incomplete, ok, non-existent.
IIRC the motor plate crumbled to pieces so I half-assed some Associated parts onto the Tamiya T-plate and ran a 1/12th scale pan car motor pod/axle. It worked but the original setup was faster. I'm trying to put it back together and am having a hard time finding parts so I was wondering if F103 pieces would work? My chassis and t-bar are complete so I only need to complete the motor pod. I do have the original steel axle but I am missing all the bearings and the left side hex. I like the 3Racing pod but I am unsure if I can make it all work with what I have. You guys have any experience with hybrid setups?



Sean
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Old 12-16-2012, 05:14 PM   #102
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Hi all,

I just dug out an old F102 that I used to carpet race back in the day. Unfortunately the motor pod is incomplete, ok, non-existent.
IIRC the motor plate crumbled to pieces so I half-assed some Associated parts onto the Tamiya T-plate and ran a 1/12th scale pan car motor pod/axle. It worked but the original setup was faster. I'm trying to put it back together and am having a hard time finding parts so I was wondering if F103 pieces would work? My chassis and t-bar are complete so I only need to complete the motor pod. I do have the original steel axle but I am missing all the bearings and the left side hex. I like the 3Racing pod but I am unsure if I can make it all work with what I have. You guys have any experience with hybrid setups?



Sean
Hey Man,

The Doctor will see you now lol - I started off with an F102 ten years ago and have raced it up until this day, in it's current guise as an F103. I've slowly migrated the parts over until I only have one insignificant plastic component remaining that is F102 spec.

Strictly, yes you can run a hybrid setup, and I've found it to work very well. However, you're hybrid setup is basically an F102 chassis with front arms, attached to an F103 rear pod and upper deck. You can't just replace one component, i.e. the motor mount/pod, and expect everything else to hang together. I'll do my best to explain (apologies if you know most of the below).

Firstly, the obvious difference between the F102/3 is the friction plater behind the damper. We'll ignore that for a while and examine the more subtle differences starting from the T-bar upwards. The T-bar has the motor attached to one side of it. With the F102, because the T-bar is literally shaped like a "T", this meant that the motor was offset to one side of the T-bar and was not central to the chassis (poor weight distribution).

The F103 addressed this by having a T-bar that wasn't quite "T" shaped, meaning the motor sat more centrally over the rear axle. This means that the axle had to change slightly (the flat spots where the axle sleeve grub screws affix to are in a different position - where the axle should sit inside the bearing meaning they are not cross-compatible). Furthermore, the axle sleeve itself is longer on one side to make up for the fact that the T-bar/pod is further away from the wheel on the motor side. You also have different bearings in the motor pod if I recall as the F103 incorporates a cam system that allows you to move the axle up and down to adjust the ride height.

Reference pic - note that the F103 pod is offset slightly - check the positioning of the bolts going into the friction damper plate and into the rear pod;

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/6353/f103003.jpg


Furthermore, because the F103 incorporates a friction damper affixes to the rear pod with two bolts, there is no central bolt for the shock to affix to, so you need the frction plate. Then, if I recall you need the F103 top deck and also the ally bridge bit that goes in front of it for the shock to mount onto. With the F103 upper deck you then need the rear plastic strut that mounts the upper deck onto the lower deck (but not the front one strut, the F102 one will do providing you affix the battery pack in with cable double sided tape).

You may be able to get away with just buying a T-Bar, axle sleeves, pod and axle and then tapping a screw hole into the pod (for the shock) and just running with the standard F102 top deck and no friction damper plate, but you can see that if you start by replacing one component at the rear of the car you then need the next part and you start a chain reaction. You can run an entire F103 pod + top deck on an F102, should you wish to, but you'llbe buying a lot of shizzle (as I found out the hard way). The plus points are that there are far more third party lightweight/performance options available for the F103.

If it helps, the parts that you need to make the rear pod for the F102 are as follows;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-580...item5ae5cc1ada

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-531...item35c1c2dc06

I seem to recall that you can use an F103 hex on the diff-less side, I can measure my F103 hex against my F102 ones if you like - I can also look up the bearing sizes if you need them - can't remember them off the top of my head, sorry.

Hope that helps - hit me back with any questions!

Last edited by Andysan; 12-16-2012 at 05:25 PM.
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Old 12-16-2012, 05:18 PM   #103
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The F103 rear pod is offset differently to the F102, so although it will bolt to the lower plate the axle and wing won't be in line.

The simple option is to buy the F102 parts as they have been rereleased, the F102 front and rear ends are used in Tamiyas rereleased Group C chassis. Part number is 0005371, can be ordered from Tamiyausa and can be found all over ebay. Any F102, F103 or F104 part will do for the left side hex, it's the same part between all of them. Rear axle bearings are 6mm x 12mm.
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Old 12-16-2012, 09:53 PM   #104
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Thanks a bunch guys. Looks like I have to decide which way to go. It's not a competition car anymore but I'd like to keep it a runner on the cheap. We'll see. It would be nice to run a mild brushless setup, do you know if the 102 pod will let one fit?

The Tamiya F1s are great handling cars on carpet, kinda like a very forgiving 1/12th pan. Back when I raced carpet 20 years ago we only ran stock motors. 1/12 was 4-cell and everything else was 6-cell. Our tracks were rather tight and I used to clean up in 1/10 pan with this car!




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Old 12-17-2012, 04:13 PM   #105
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A brushless will drop straight in, after all the pod is the same width as the F103/F104 pods, just offset differently.

We usually race F1s with a 21.5T brushless motor, geared right they are fast enough to be fun without being overpowered. I have raced with a 13.5T in an F1, it was fast but harder to drive, probably would have lapped faster with a 17.5T motor.
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