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Old 09-01-2008, 07:31 PM   #1
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Questions?? Speedmerchant Speedspec questions

I just got hold of a used Speedspec (the original, not the speedspec II) and have a few questions. First off I do not have a copy of the instructions, manual, whatever came with it, I'm flying blind. Mine has damper tubes, but they come in contact with the tweak screws that adjust the springs on the pod end of the links. So much so, that the inner part of the damper is broken on one side, and bent on the other side. The pictures that I find on the Speedmerchant website do not show damper tubes on the car at all, but in the parts section it shows part smr1539, Speedspec tweak plate that looks like what is on my car. Maybe the wrong tweak screws are on it... maybe the wrong tweak plate... maybe it's not supposed to have damper tubes... ? I'm looking to find out if my car has the correct parts, and if they are assembled correctly. I don't want to replace the damper tubes just to have them binding on the tweak screws and break again.
Does anyone have a copy of the manual that came with the Speedspec?
Anybody have any setups or suggestions, or pictures of their Speedspec to compare to mine. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
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Old 09-01-2008, 07:47 PM   #2
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Originally the speedspec came with damper tubes.

What are you running for a motor? That may determine whether or not to keep the tubes. Locally a speedspec class has started with mabuchi silver can motors or 21.5 brushless and theme bodies. Tubes really aren't an issue for them. But if you are gonna run 13.5 or higher, I'd keep the tubes.

As for the damage, a long time ago when I still had a speedspec, I had accidently put the tweak plate on backwards. Make sure the ballstuds for the damper tubes are toward the front of the car and not the rear of the car.
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Old 09-01-2008, 07:54 PM   #3
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I haven't had it on the track yet, but was going to use a stock 27t brushed motor to start out with. I have the tweak plate on with the ballstuds toward the front of the car. So, did your damper tubes make contact with tweak screws on the tweak plate?
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:16 PM   #4
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I don't recall them ever hitting. With a 27t brushed motor, you won't need the tubes.
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:47 PM   #5
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I appreciate the advice on whether or not to use the tubes. I will give it a try without them. Seems odd though, I can tell when I need new goop on the tubes on my 1/12 scale, and can tell a big difference when I re-lube them so it seems odd that I wouldn't need any kind of damping on a 1/10 scale car.
For arguments sake, lets assume I want to use the tubes. Do the tubes hit or come close to the tweak screws? What are the tweak screws supposed to look like? Mine are normal cap head screws. Should they be button head screws to create more clearance? Are the ballstuds for the inner end of the tubes supposed to be mounted on the bottom side of the pod plate or the top? Are the ballstuds for the outside end of the tubes mounted directly on the tweak plate, or are they shimmed up from the plate? Do I have the correct size standoffs supporting the tweak plate?
I have dozens of questions that a manual or instructions or exploded view would answer. I have checked the Speedmerchant website, but only Rev.4 and Rev.5 instructions are posted.
Thanks.

Last edited by S.Heath; 09-01-2008 at 08:50 PM. Reason: can't speel, I mean spell.
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Old 09-01-2008, 09:01 PM   #6
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oh geez. ok, I'm in no way an expert on the speed spec, but:

you DO need the tubes.
If they are hitting the springs, something is built incorrectly. Throw me a pm and I'll try to get you a copy of the instructions via pm/email.


we'll get you there.
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Old 09-02-2008, 04:56 AM   #7
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PM sent. I appreciate the assistance.
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Old 09-04-2008, 11:46 AM   #8
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Anyone else have any experience with the Speedspec that would like comment or suggest anything? Still waiting to see if a manual can be found.
Thanks.
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Old 09-04-2008, 01:50 PM   #9
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Can you take a picture of your car? Maybe that would help us figure it out.
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Old 09-04-2008, 02:04 PM   #10
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Excellent idea. Sounds so obvious once someone suggests it, but it didn't even occur to me before. I'll get some shots of it tonight.
Thanks!
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Old 09-04-2008, 09:55 PM   #11
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Here are some pics of the car...

Currently the tweak screws are adjusted so that the springs are just touching the links on the chassis. No pressure on either side. The center shock spring is adjusted to that the chassis and rear pod are level with each other.

If there are other views that would help, let me know and I will get them. Thanks for the assistance.

Overhead view of the rear of the car...


Overhead close up of the intact damper tube... showing how close to the tweak screw it is.


Side view...


Side view close up... showing the current height of the tweak screw in relation to the tube.


View from the front of the car...


Close up from the front of the car...

Last edited by S.Heath; 09-04-2008 at 10:05 PM. Reason: PICS!
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Old 09-05-2008, 08:03 AM   #12
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I will take a photo of my old speed spec when I get to the track tonight. I still run it, and its a great car. With that car, you really should get dampener tubes on it.

I would recommend adjusting your 4/40 tweak screw further into the metallic spring retainer thus lowering them out of harms way.

You will want to back your tweak springs all the way off of the link, all the way up to the tweak brace. We have been running our cars that way for a few years now.

If you still cant seem to get the screw low enough, another option may be to replace your tweak screw with a button head, as they are lower profile.

Hope this helps,
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Old 09-05-2008, 10:37 AM   #13
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After closer inspection of your pics, It looks like you have your shock set with too much preload and/or length. The rear pod should sit level with the main chassis (ready to run with motor battery and tires). You can trim the ball ends on the shock so that the rear pod doesnt travel so far back. you can have 1-2 degrees of pod "droop" when you pick up on the car and unweight the suspension. Thats about the max.

Also from the looks of it by ordering just one dampener tube, you should be able to fix both of the tubes on your car. Male end on the bent side, female end on the other.

Give that a shot... and Ill grab pix later.
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Old 09-05-2008, 11:30 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beavis353 View Post
After closer inspection of your pics, It looks like you have your shock set with too much preload and/or length. The rear pod should sit level with the main chassis (ready to run with motor battery and tires). You can trim the ball ends on the shock so that the rear pod doesnt travel so far back. you can have 1-2 degrees of pod "droop" when you pick up on the car and unweight the suspension. Thats about the max.
I have it adjusted right now so that it is level without the weight of the battery for purposes of the pictures. But there are a couple of thick plastic washers under the shock/antenna mount to raise it up a little... probably at least 1/4 inch off the chassis. Taking those out should shorten the length a bit to take out some of the pod droop when you pickup the chassis. Limiting that would help a lot. Thanks. I bought the car used, and it is basically still set up the way I got it, so a few corrections like that will make the difference. That's the main idea of this thread... I don't know what the exact 'factory' assembly should be, so I don't know what might be different.
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Old 09-05-2008, 07:58 PM   #15
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Well, change #1 made a big difference. I removed the plastic washers from out from under the antenna/shock mount and now the rear pod only droops slightly beyond level when there is no weight on the chassis. The excessive droop is what really made the tweak screws put a lot of pressure on the damper tubes. Still, the above pictures were taken with the pod level with the chassis, so there are still issues that I would like to resolve. I would still like more info on the correct assembly of the car if possible to be sure nothing else is incorrect on the car.
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