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Old 09-08-2008, 11:14 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beavis353 View Post
After closer inspection of your pics, It looks like you have your shock set with too much preload and/or length. The rear pod should sit level with the main chassis (ready to run with motor battery and tires). You can trim the ball ends on the shock so that the rear pod doesnt travel so far back. you can have 1-2 degrees of pod "droop" when you pick up on the car and unweight the suspension. Thats about the max.

Also from the looks of it by ordering just one dampener tube, you should be able to fix both of the tubes on your car. Male end on the bent side, female end on the other.

Give that a shot... and Ill grab pix later.
On the damper tubes, it's the male end of both that are damaged... one broken, the other bent, weakend and ready to break.
Still waiting on your pix. Would love to compare your car to the setup I currently have.
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Old 09-09-2008, 05:18 AM   #17
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Hellooooo... hellooooo... hellooooo... hellooooo...
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Old 09-09-2008, 07:19 AM   #18
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Hi S. Heath,

The kit you have is our older SpeedSpec.

The assembly on it looks fine, although I’m sure it needs some TLC.

Your shock length is too long. The 4-40 ball cups should be screwed on all the way flush with each end of the shock. There should be no spacers underneath the shock mount.

If you hold the chassis in the air, and look at it from the side, the rear pod should only extend about 2-3 degrees past the level chassis plate. (i.e.- 2-3 degrees of “droop”).

If you have done this properly, it is impossible for your damper tubes to hit the Tweak Screws (cap heads).

Now, that chassis was designed in the mid-90’s, so a lot of things have changed since then.

1st – You’re going to have to open up the battery slots (length) to fit any modern sub-c cell.

2nd – The Tweak Brace was designed to use Bolink Damper Tubes (which we used to OEM from them). The Bolink damper tube was quite a bit longer than the tubes used on our current cars. If you are just going to run a 27 turn motor, you really don’t even need tubes. Our current SpeedSpec II runs great without tubes, and it saves the consumer some money.

As far as instructions, we don’t have on-line instructions for the old SpeedSpec, but if you go to:

http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/support/support.html

You can download the older Rev4 instructions (PDF). They explain how to properly assemble the Old Skool front end, as well as how to adjust the rear links for free movement.

I hope that helps you out. I’m sure some of the team guys will respond to this thread also.

Have a great day.-Bruce

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phone/fax 978-597-3344
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Old 09-09-2008, 07:34 AM   #19
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my friends put a hotbodies shock on the car and that has been vury nice...


double check your shims on your back axle after you rebuild your diff to make sure your axle is centered and not too narrow (clean fresh diff makes a world of diff-erence), make sure the space between the rear pod and front chassis plate is the same from left to right by adjusting your side links (make sure the links don't feel 'bound' or hard to move), lube/polish your front king pins and if you have not yet, go grab some cheapo' bearings.


Let us know how it goes!
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Old 09-09-2008, 09:17 AM   #20
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Thanks Bruce and The Bear... (sounds like a morning drive-time FM radio team!)
I have the antenna mount flush on the chassis now, and the rear pod droop is as you descibed, maybe a little more than 2-3 degrees. I see that I still have a few threads showing on one end of my center shock, so I can take up a little more droop by bringing that ballcup tight up against the shock.
I think you are right about the TLC also. A diff rebuild, check the bearings over, re-fill the oil in the shock, re-lube the one good tube and see how it runs. I'm still a little paranoid about how close the tweak screws are to the tubes... I may see if I can get my hands on a couple 1/2" 4-40 set screws (no heads) to use in place of the current tweak screws. Or maybe crank the spring holders a little further onto the screws to give me a little more clearance by the tubes.
Thanks for the help guys. Anyone with additional suggestions is always welcome. I'll let you know what happens next once I get it on the track.
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Old 09-09-2008, 10:39 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S.Heath View Post
Thanks Bruce and The Bear... (sounds like a morning drive-time FM radio team!)
I have the antenna mount flush on the chassis now, and the rear pod droop is as you descibed, maybe a little more than 2-3 degrees. I see that I still have a few threads showing on one end of my center shock, so I can take up a little more droop by bringing that ballcup tight up against the shock.
I think you are right about the TLC also. A diff rebuild, check the bearings over, re-fill the oil in the shock, re-lube the one good tube and see how it runs. I'm still a little paranoid about how close the tweak screws are to the tubes... I may see if I can get my hands on a couple 1/2" 4-40 set screws (no heads) to use in place of the current tweak screws. Or maybe crank the spring holders a little further onto the screws to give me a little more clearance by the tubes.
Thanks for the help guys. Anyone with additional suggestions is always welcome. I'll let you know what happens next once I get it on the track.
Use a camber gauge to check the actual angles of the king pins (without tires on the car, chassis plate flat on a work surface). The ae molds for these arms is a little old, and you should shim the kingpins to the desired angle separately. For getting the desired caster angle, add shim washers under the arm at the front screw, to get camber, slice up some header cards to use as shims under the outside edge of the arm, usually between the shim washer and the chassis plate.

To make measuring the kingpin angle easier, you can remove the kingpin from the suspension arm and install a fiberglass roll over antenna used in 12th scale.

I also use the same shim washers to set the ride height. I color the shim washers with a black sharpie that I used to set the caster with, this way I know at a glance the difference between the ones used for caster and the ones I used to get proper ride height (4mm at my track).

To make quick adjustments easier, you can always tape in the center of the paper shims used for adjusting camber, just make sure that it doesn't hit the bottom of the suspension arm, or get stuck under the caster/ride height shims.
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Old 10-08-2008, 08:36 AM   #22
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Well after a month, I finally got the car on the track to try it out. I got the ride height set, the shock spring adjusted so that the pod sits level with the chassis. On the track I found that the rear axle is badly worn where it rides on the axle bearings creating a lot of play in the axle. When cornering, the the rear of the car has a horrible vibration, which I am attributing to the worn out axle at this point. I tried it both with no damper tubes and with the damper tubes from by 1/12 scale CRC T-Fource installed. No help either way with the vibration. I'm off to get a new axle and go from there.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 10-28-2008, 03:03 PM   #23
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Got hold of some of the original Bolink damper tubes (amazingly similar to the tubes on my CRC T-Fource... just without the red anodizing) and gave it another run. Still have the vibration, like there is too much rear traction, and the rear just hops. Still waiting on parts (new axle and tweak plate) but found another thing to ask about. The shock seems way too close to the battery pack. The spring tension nut actually touches the cells, and the retaining O-ring rides between the coils on the spring. Seems to be putting lateral pressure on the shock causing binding. This goes back to my desire to get hold of a manual to check the assembly and also to see if the shock/antenna mount is the correct one or a replacement that is different and affects the location and/or angle of the shock. I may try shimming the ballstuds on both ends of the shock upward to give me a little room to prevent the binding.
Again, if anyone out there has a copy of the Speedspec manual, please let me know.

Thanks
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:16 AM   #24
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SpeedMerchant... you have a PM.
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Old 11-05-2008, 10:05 AM   #25
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If you really want the original instructions I will try to scan it when I get a chance. It is not a manual that shows how things go together, rather a suggestion on what to use for damper tubes and shock oil, etc.
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Old 11-05-2008, 11:00 AM   #26
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That would be great. I appreciate the offer. Please scan and send whatever you have on the car. [email protected]
You say that what you have is not an assembly manual, but more of a setup guide. WAS there an assembly manual for this car? Unless the car came assembled or almost-ready-to-run there should be a manual for the car somewhere out there.
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Old 11-05-2008, 12:02 PM   #27
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There was no manual. The car came 75% assembled. Not sure how finished the speedspec 2 manual is, but I will ask Tim about it.
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Old 03-13-2009, 09:17 AM   #28
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An update, several months later...
Got a new tweak plate from Speedmerchant along with a new axle. The old tweak plate was cracked.
Got some 'set screw' type tweak screws from CRC to replace the cap head tweak screws. I now have plenty of clearance.
From studying pics on the Speedmerchant web site, I realized that someone had the wrong shock/antenna mount on the car. The correct one is much higher and allows for more battery clearance and correct geometry for the rear pod droop. (this is where the instructions or manual I was begging for would have come in handy)
I got a set of Jaco World GT spec tires for the car, and amazingly the vibration or shudder in the corners went away. Apparently the shudder was in the front end, not the rear, and the purples on the front were waaaay to hard... had no grip, just hop.
Like a crazy man, I entered a fairly major race after very little wheel time with the car. It ran good, but the driver was just not up to par with the competiton, and the car needs a little more tweaking. After qualifying, I was 4 laps off the next racer ahead of me, and 8 laps off the TQ. I felt it best to sit out the main and not take a chance of altering the outcome for the other racers.
I would still appreciate any set up info anyone might want to offer up. Shock oil preferences, springs, damper tube lube, etc. The car will turn on a dime, and I have a lousy servo in it! Someone once told me about the set-up on my 1/12 scale car, "If it doesn't scare you to death in the corners, they you don't have enough steering". It holds true with this car! You can't drive it at half throttle or it will handle like garbage... I keep turning into the boards before the corners. At race speeds it seems to mellow out.
I feel like a blogger... thanks for reading!
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