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Old 08-30-2008, 03:30 AM   #1
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Default Lipo's

I've just recently made the move from Nitro to Electric and did all the research on everything except 1 little important item, the Lipo's, I bought 2 Yeah Racing 3600's and found out that they are not ROAR approved.

I have read around on plenty of forums about the yeah racing lipo's some say they are great others say they dont want to risk their ESC, then the topic usually goes off on to another brand of lipo and i never get the answer im looking for.

So are these lipo's ok to use for practice? I've spent a fair amount of money on the ESC, Car and lipo balancer and if there is a huge risk in using these lipo's I'd rather be on the safe side and buy ROAR approved Lipo's now before the car comes in.

Last thing is my local hobby shop only really has the Core 3250's and 5000's, I was told the 5000's are used in classes like mod etc, but the 3250's would be great for the lower classes, are the Core lipo's any good?
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Old 08-30-2008, 04:02 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Ciny View Post
I've just recently made the move from Nitro to Electric and did all the research on everything except 1 little important item, the Lipo's, I bought 2 Yeah Racing 3600's and found out that they are not ROAR approved.

I have read around on plenty of forums about the yeah racing lipo's some say they are great others say they dont want to risk their ESC, then the topic usually goes off on to another brand of lipo and i never get the answer im looking for.

So are these lipo's ok to use for practice? I've spent a fair amount of money on the ESC, Car and lipo balancer and if there is a huge risk in using these lipo's I'd rather be on the safe side and buy ROAR approved Lipo's now before the car comes in.

Last thing is my local hobby shop only really has the Core 3250's and 5000's, I was told the 5000's are used in classes like mod etc, but the 3250's would be great for the lower classes, are the Core lipo's any good?
Personally I would go ahead and sell them two lipo's you bought. I prefer the orion/kokam lipo. Orion, SMC, Trinity, Core are some options. Making sure it is roar approved is important to me. There is no need for practice lipo's what so ever. Buy whatever size you feel you need for racing. Don't go to small though, buying bigger would be better.

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Old 08-30-2008, 11:47 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Ciny View Post
I've just recently made the move from Nitro to Electric and did all the research on everything except 1 little important item, the Lipo's, I bought 2 Yeah Racing 3600's and found out that they are not ROAR approved.

I have read around on plenty of forums about the yeah racing lipo's some say they are great others say they dont want to risk their ESC, then the topic usually goes off on to another brand of lipo and i never get the answer im looking for.

So are these lipo's ok to use for practice? I've spent a fair amount of money on the ESC, Car and lipo balancer and if there is a huge risk in using these lipo's I'd rather be on the safe side and buy ROAR approved Lipo's now before the car comes in.

Last thing is my local hobby shop only really has the Core 3250's and 5000's, I was told the 5000's are used in classes like mod etc, but the 3250's would be great for the lower classes, are the Core lipo's any good?


How many roar races do you plan on attending? If not on a regular basis, or none, dont bother with throwing more money at more lipos. Just because its not roar approved does not mean that you wont get good life and performance out of them. Your esc will be fine. Keep 'em balanced and dont over discharge and you should enjoy long life out of your Yeah's. Cores are good If you feel the need to purchase more lipos. I have ran 3200's (orion) in mod offroad in the past (6.5 bl) and runtime wasnt an issue
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Old 08-30-2008, 12:19 PM   #4
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HEY GUYS! I AM NEW TO LIPO. I AM THE KIND OF GUY THAT LIKES TO PURCHASE THE BEST OF EVERYTHING JUST BECAUSE I THINK IT PAYS FOR ITSELF IN THE LONG RUN. I AM REALLY NEW AND DONT KNOW WHAT THE C RATING MEANS ON LIPOS? ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. ALSO ANY SUGGESTIONS ON THE TYPE WOULD BE WONDERFUL AS WELL. THANKS KINDLY
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Old 08-30-2008, 03:39 PM   #5
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HEY GUYS! I AM NEW TO LIPO. I AM THE KIND OF GUY THAT LIKES TO PURCHASE THE BEST OF EVERYTHING JUST BECAUSE I THINK IT PAYS FOR ITSELF IN THE LONG RUN. I AM REALLY NEW AND DONT KNOW WHAT THE C RATING MEANS ON LIPOS? ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. ALSO ANY SUGGESTIONS ON THE TYPE WOULD BE WONDERFUL AS WELL. THANKS KINDLY
It's supposed to be a rating of the "discharge rate" or the like, but apparently different manufacturers use different analysis methods so it's not a precise way of comparing cells. In theory, a higher C rating is better but in practice it's sort of a grey area.

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ANY SUGGESTIONS ON THE TYPE WOULD BE WONDERFUL AS WELL. THANKS KINDLY
Since you asked about the TYPE:

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Old 08-30-2008, 03:55 PM   #6
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reenmachine - hehehe, roflmao!!! Totally appropriate!!

C rating works like this, Example - 5000mah, 20C continuous rating => batt is rated capable of delivering 20 * (5000/1000) = 100amps.

There is usually a cont and a burst rating - burst is only short periods, normally just a few seconds and is higher than cont rating. You'll find as C rating goes up, price usually follows. There are no industry standards for establishing C rating and some lipos are rated optimistically while others are more realistic. Price is again a clue here.
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Old 08-30-2008, 04:21 PM   #7
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It's supposed to be a rating of the "discharge rate" or the like, but apparently different manufacturers use different analysis methods so it's not a precise way of comparing cells. In theory, a higher C rating is better but in practice it's sort of a grey area.



Since you asked about the TYPE:

ahahahaa you win the prize
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Old 08-30-2008, 08:43 PM   #8
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I run Yea Racing 3200 lipos at an all nitro track. No problems so far and if I do race I believe local track will allow the lipo's I have. So I agree if you will not be in to many roar races don't spend all your money on them expensive lipo's. Good luck on yoru decision.
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Old 08-30-2008, 10:32 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Ciny View Post
I've just recently made the move from Nitro to Electric and did all the research on everything except 1 little important item, the Lipo's, I bought 2 Yeah Racing 3600's and found out that they are not ROAR approved.

I have read around on plenty of forums about the yeah racing lipo's some say they are great others say they dont want to risk their ESC, then the topic usually goes off on to another brand of lipo and i never get the answer im looking for.

So are these lipo's ok to use for practice? I've spent a fair amount of money on the ESC, Car and lipo balancer and if there is a huge risk in using these lipo's I'd rather be on the safe side and buy ROAR approved Lipo's now before the car comes in.

Last thing is my local hobby shop only really has the Core 3250's and 5000's, I was told the 5000's are used in classes like mod etc, but the 3250's would be great for the lower classes, are the Core lipo's any good?
I've been running the core lipo 5000 since it was available, no problems, roar approved, i've used in mostly 13.5 but some mod, and works great in off road. the core 3250 is also a great battery, i use it in 13.5 also as well as off road. the core 5000 will be a tight fit in some brand of chassis.

as far as the other guy asking about C rating, until all the battery guys come to a agreement on how to reach that rating, ignore it. after seeing a few labels peeled off of lipos, seems some people (who will remain name less) like to put a 4000 mah label on a 5000 mah lipo and then up the C rating accordingly
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Old 08-31-2008, 09:15 AM   #10
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guys i'm new to this lipo stuff too. i run 19t touring cars mostly and been out of the sport the last couple of years. what kind of charger, lipo's, motor/speed control would you guys recommend? also how many lipos would i need to run 3 heats and a main? and what kind of run times would i expect? thanks guys
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Old 08-31-2008, 10:15 AM   #11
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one, you only need one lipo, run it over and over and over and over, no waiting to charge, no need to discharge before charging. as far as what brand, I use all core stuff, batteries, charger, and speedpassion ESC's and motors. depending on your track, 19t may have been changed to 13.5 or 10.5 brushless or a combo of both. run times with a core 5000 lipo, speedpassion esc and 13.5 is over 10minutes, in off road around 20 minutes with a xxxt

your going to get as many opinions on what brand as there are brands. on the lipo, just go with a roar approved brand you will be safe
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Old 08-31-2008, 10:28 AM   #12
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one, you only need one lipo, run it over and over and over and over

As long as you are allowed time to charge before the next heat
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Old 08-31-2008, 10:41 AM   #13
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i like the orion lipo's because the plugs..

What balancer* do u guys suggest getting. I use a 989 superbrain MRC, to charge. I havent balanced my packs ever.. Still perfect.

My question is: should charger the pack after every run?
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Old 08-31-2008, 12:33 PM   #14
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Sorry for the disturb, in the case i don't want to create a new thread.

Could somebody confirm if a LRP TC spec is included LIPO cutoff to prevent damage of battery?
Or didn't exist so i have just to buy auto cutoff device, like the Novak ones?

Best regards
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Old 08-31-2008, 12:51 PM   #15
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i like the orion lipo's because the plugs..

What balancer* do u guys suggest getting. I use a 989 superbrain MRC, to charge. I havent balanced my packs ever.. Still perfect.

My question is: should charger the pack after every run?
I picked up the Checkpoint "Pro LiPo Balancer" add on for use with my ICE and Checkpoint 1030 chargers. $40 at Tower. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTSA5&P=SM

Interestingly, right on the Orion LiPo battery box, is says that they have a balancer port, but their testing has shown that equalizing/balancing is unnecessary. Also, on the back of the box, it states "Team Orion does not recommend the use of MRC chargers."

Yes, charge your pack after every race.
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