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Old 09-07-2003, 09:21 PM   #1
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Default First time running One-Way Front Diff

Ok, So I ran my new one way diff at So-Cal this past saturday for the first time, and I have a question.

Well, so start, let me say that I now have a tremendeous amount of steering. The car can turns really really well now, but only if I am coasting, or on throttle. My question is, why does my back end come spinning out from behind me when I tap the breaks? I didnt have this sympom at all before the one-way was put in.

How can I remedy this? What on my setup should I change now that I am running the front one-way? I didn't change anything on my setup

Chassis - schumacher mission carbon
rear toe-in - 1 degree neg
rear camber - 1 degree neg
front toe-in - 0 degree
front camber - 1 degree neg
Front and rear shocks - (bottom inside hole, top 1 in from the inside most hole)
Take-off 27s

Thanks for any insight guys...
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Old 09-07-2003, 09:41 PM   #2
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Cow....before you change your chassis setup...decrease the amount of brake you have programmed. Depending on equipment ,you can do this at the radio or the ESC. Chances are it will be easier at the radio. The problem is simple.With a one way,the front axle is coasting when you let off the throttle or apply brakes.Unlike the ball diff which would actually be braking along with your rear diff. With only the back braking at the same setting you had before, it's skidding. You'll notice this particularly when you apply brakes at the entrance to a turn.
The Mission is a great chassis but i haven't run 1 in awhile. Consult the Schumacher thread for setup advice with the 1 way.
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Old 09-07-2003, 09:47 PM   #3
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Firstly with the front One-Way you have no breaks in the front when the brakes are applied. The front wheels keep rotating. With a front one-way you need to adjust your driving style accordingly.
When coming in to the corner rather than brake, just coast in and turn and apply throttle at the apex of the corner, you need to be smooth and have good throttle control.

Also with your set up I would suggest you lay down your rear shocks to gain a little more lateral grip (use lower outside hole) and maybe try a degree or half of front toe out and maybe 2 degrees of toe in at the rear.

I'm no expert so maybe you should see what other comments are put forward.
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Old 09-07-2003, 09:49 PM   #4
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Evoracer is right, nix the brakes via speedcontrol. One other problem that I have run into using a front one-way, is that it is great for wide sweeping turns, but for tight twisty tracks, every now and then I feel like there is too much steering. But that's me.. It'll take some getting used to, but in the end its a good thing to master the one-way.
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Old 09-07-2003, 10:04 PM   #5
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Yeah...good point and every bit as important as the brakes. You may find it necessary to change the end point settings for your steering. Basically, you will decrease the distance the servo will move from left to right. I remember on my Mission I had to turn it down around 50 or 55 % but don't do anything until you decrease the brakes. One change at a time !!!!
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Old 09-07-2003, 10:23 PM   #6
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Gocha... it took me a good 10 laps to really get used to how DRAMATICALLY different the car performs having the one-way diff in place. I was under the impression that the break setting on my radio or speed controler just changes the amount of breaks applied when I let off the throttle. I am referring to when I push my throttle trigger in the reverse directions.

I am fairly good around the track, and am fairly good with setup, but I have only been back into the sport for about 2 months, post a nice 3 year break, so I am having to learn everything all over again. So you suggest standing the rear shocks up a tad? My rears are on the center hole up top, and inner hole down below. If I go to the outside hole on the bottom control arms... I don't have any ride height at all.

Keep the tips coming! I love all the help.. this is the best board I have found yet.
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Old 09-07-2003, 10:29 PM   #7
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I actually think you should lay the Rear shocks down slightly for more lateral grip. If you move to the outer hole in the Rear lower arm you can adjust your ride height up again by screwing your shock collars down towards the bottom to raise the car up again.

I have also adjusted my Brake on my Transmitter to allow maximum braking without getting the rear around.
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Old 09-07-2003, 11:26 PM   #8
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Move my shock collars down? you dont change ride height by moving your colars bro.. that changes your pre-load, and therefore your entire shock absorbing characteristics.... thanks though
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Old 09-07-2003, 11:44 PM   #9
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you drive a shui at socal? Next time there come find me I got a great setup for ya. Also if Don V is there he acn help you alot, hes a team driver.
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Old 09-07-2003, 11:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by holycow
Move my shock collars down? you dont change ride height by moving your colars bro.. that changes your pre-load, and therefore your entire shock absorbing characteristics.... thanks though
Sorry to say but you DO adjust ride height via your threaded shock collars.
You will notice that there is a fair bit of up and down movement of the spring on the damper when you have it removed from the car and the collar is right at the top. By reducing the amount of free play the spring has on the damper you effectively adjust the ride height. You are not meant to screw the collar down so it actually starts to compress the spring.
This has been the case on all the cars I have owned to date

Any one care to back me up....
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Old 09-08-2003, 12:17 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by holycow
Move my shock collars down? you dont change ride height by moving your colars bro.. that changes your pre-load, and therefore your entire shock absorbing characteristics.... thanks though
Holycow- Assuming you have some background with full scale auto racing, I understand where you are coming from with that statement. Unfortunately, you are wrong. In r/c there is no pre-load on the springs. If you are running preload then your car is jacked.

Tip- when someone on thsi fine board offers you some advice, don't reply with an "I know-it-all" reply until you know what you are talking about.
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Old 09-08-2003, 12:18 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by holycow
Move my shock collars down? you dont change ride height by moving your colars bro.. that changes your pre-load, and therefore your entire shock absorbing characteristics.... thanks though
How do you change ur ride height then if you dont use the collars?


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Spot on
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Old 09-08-2003, 12:19 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by CustomfibreR/C
Sorry to say but you DO adjust ride height via your threaded shock collars.
You will notice that there is a fair bit of up and down movement of the spring on the damper when you have it removed from the car and the collar is right at the top. By reducing the amount of free play the spring has on the damper you effectively adjust the ride height. You are not meant to screw the collar down so it actually starts to compress the spring.
This has been the case on all the cars I have owned to date

Any one care to back me up....
You got it right.....Go to the top of the class

The Threaded Shock collars are used to raise or lower the cars ride height. You should not however screw them down so they actually compress the spring.

Steevo
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Old 09-08-2003, 12:25 AM   #14
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GAME, SET AND MATCH....Thank You Lines men thank you Ball Boys...

Sorry I couldn't resist
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Old 09-08-2003, 12:40 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by BigDogRacing
Tip- when someone on thsi fine board offers you some advice, don't reply with an "I know-it-all" reply until you know what you are talking about.
Thanks for the tip.. but no need to be a punk about it...
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