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Old 08-24-2008, 09:44 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by ultegrasti View Post
indeed, sadly folks want an arm and a leg for pans too. granted 250 vs near 500.

perhaps some of us just dont wanna work on them so much anymore. the cool techy factor has grown old. something needs to happen, notice every1 goin offroad?

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I did 18th offroad, 10th Nitro 2wd Offroad, and 8th buggy offroad. I am VERY tired of all the cleaning and maintenance required. 10th TC is so much more relaxing IMO and MUCH less work, even to setup correctly.
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Old 08-25-2008, 01:38 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by mikel33 View Post
I balanced my TC5 using 4 kitchen scales I bought for 5$ each at kmart or somewhere and a level set-up board. I used the LIPO plates from PPD and was able to balance out the car with both sides equal to a couple of grams and front to back within maybe 10 grams by moving the electronics & battery around and then some fine tuning with the shock collars. Its actually pretty easy.

I'm pretty much a hack driver, but the car does seem to handle better.
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What is your minimum weight to get down to?

Never mind, I see there is no weight limit. Having a chassis balanced left to right is important if you are looking for the little edge.
Anyway, for example if i have i left/battery right/motor-servo-esc car(TC5, TRF416, T2 008, Cyclone). As i said before, if i put transponder and receiver in the battery side, how much weigh must add on top of battery, in the case if i use Orion 3800?
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Old 08-25-2008, 03:00 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by mac853 View Post
Anyway, for example if i have i left/battery right/motor-servo-esc car(TC5, TRF416, T2 008, Cyclone). As i said before, if i put transponder and receiver in the battery side, how much weigh must add on top of battery, in the case if i use Orion 3800?
You'll have to add something like 160 grams or more total.
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Old 08-25-2008, 05:35 AM   #19
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You'll have to add something like 160 grams or more total.
Wow, just to balancing both sides must need so much.

Let's make a little calculation, normally a NIMH 6 cell pack weighs around 440G.
LIPOs weighs around 220G, if you add 160G, the difference of both technology will be just about the tiny 60G, just means don't need purchase purposely LIPO since your NIMH is still working, isn't it?

In the case, I think NIMH could be better, as Lipo's punch are so weaker.

Last edited by mac853; 08-26-2008 at 08:37 AM.
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Old 08-25-2008, 02:39 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by mac853 View Post
Wow, just to balancing both sides must need so much.

Let's make a little calculation, normally a NIMH 6 cell pack weighs aroung 440G.
LIPOs weighs around 220G, if you add 160G, the difference of both technology will be just about the tiny 60G, just means don't need purchase purposely LIPO since your NIMH is still working, isn't it?

In the case, I think NIMH could be better, as Lipo's punch are so weaker.
Ni-MH the first punch better !!
or post your car photo !?
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Old 08-25-2008, 07:08 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by mac853 View Post
Wow, just to balancing both sides must need so much.

Let's make a little calculation, normally a NIMH 6 cell pack weighs aroung 440G.
LIPOs weighs around 220G, if you add 160G, the difference of both technology will be just about the tiny 60G, just means don't need purchase purposely LIPO since your NIMH is still working, isn't it?

In the case, I think NIMH could be better, as Lipo's punch are so weaker.
Yeah, I thought it was disadvantageous to go with lipo too because you have to add so much weight. But when you consider it, a savings of even 30 grams is quite significant. Also, aside from lipo being much more trouble free, while nimh may produce more initial voltage, under load, lipo discharges without so much of a drop in voltage. In terms of "feel", lipo felt more punchy than the old IB and GP cells which they replaced. Unless I had some new nimhs, I'd find it difficult to justify using nimh.
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Old 08-25-2008, 07:59 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac853 View Post
Anyway, for example if i have i left/battery right/motor-servo-esc car(TC5, TRF416, T2 008, Cyclone). As i said before, if i put transponder and receiver in the battery side, how much weigh must add on top of battery, in the case if i use Orion 3800?
My guess is, even with moving those items you'll need to add min. of 125 grams. But...the very last place you want to put weight is on top of the battery. This will raise the COG which will hurt performance. Best place is 1) under battery...2) outside edge of battery. The farther outside of battery you place the weight, the less weight that is required.

You may want to look at our weights that provide both of these objectives.

http://www.ppdbillet.com/RC_accessories.html
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:17 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by RC MARKET View Post
Ni-MH the first punch better !!
or post your car photo !?
Wait, i wasn't also just to asking if i need to purchase lipo.
Also to thinking for new chassis, let's to see if any car could fit well then take advantage with LIPO facing NIMH. Honestly, If i have to put a bunch of lead is the only way to use LIPO then without any big benefict, only kind that i could say is "Thanks!"

Instead of having(just fictionable): 10min 23T/4000KV or 15min 540 silver can/3000KV endurace races, something like that.

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Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
My guess is, even with moving those items you'll need to add min. of 125 grams. But...the very last place you want to put weight is on top of the battery. This will raise the COG which will hurt performance. Best place is 1) under battery...2) outside edge of battery. The farther outside of battery you place the weight, the less weight that is required.

You may want to look at our weights that provide both of these objectives.

http://www.ppdbillet.com/RC_accessories.html
Oh, you are playing COG too, in the case i saw lot guys put it exactly under of battery, i have no idea of this action is the matter for the performance.
In the case i am just starting to make a research, to start learning from 0.
Yeah, your idea was the good 1, just if don't bother anybody to show the weight of your car with photo.
I like so much that kit for TC5, is very helpful, but can't do nothing since it has no market in my area.
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Originally Posted by HI_808 View Post
Yeah, I thought it was disadvantageous to go with lipo too because you have to add so much weight. But when you consider it, a savings of even 30 grams is quite significant. Also, aside from lipo being much more trouble free, while nimh may produce more initial voltage, under load, lipo discharges without so much of a drop in voltage. In terms of "feel", lipo felt more punchy than the old IB and GP cells which they replaced. Unless I had some new nimhs, I'd find it difficult to justify using nimh.
As i hear, LIPO has only advantage with NIMH just more voltage, could make higher highpoint than NIMH.
But in my case, our track are small and tight then is concrete, how could LIPO will make the difference?

Last edited by mac853; 08-26-2008 at 09:36 AM.
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:41 AM   #24
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Why dont they just add weight to the inside of the casing and just specify them as a TC lipo. Unless every chassis puts the lipo in the center, we will always have to add weight to get it balanced. Lowering the min weight will not help. Just make the lipos heavier!
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Old 08-26-2008, 10:41 AM   #25
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Why dont they just add weight to the inside of the casing and just specify them as a TC lipo. Unless every chassis puts the lipo in the center, we will always have to add weight to get it balanced. Lowering the min weight will not help. Just make the lipos heavier!
But how?
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Old 08-26-2008, 01:41 PM   #26
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On my Tamiya TB EV05 I used a PPD 3oz weighted tray, along with a orion 3200, the car comes in just a hair over 1300g with body on. I'm running a Tekin RS BL system, with Spektrum RX and Futaba 9551. I dont have but one scale, so had to use the old golf tee trick to get a close left right balance. Otherwise I just run it to have fun, I used to spend hours upon hours going over alignment, set-up, ect but then decided to get it in the ballpark and just go drive the darn thing.
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Old 08-26-2008, 02:14 PM   #27
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next year EP car will have for Li-Po balance first !
maybe like HPI PRO 3
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Old 08-27-2008, 10:00 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by RC MARKET View Post
next year EP car will have for Li-Po balance first !
maybe like HPI PRO 3
Wow, but which makes?
If could be the japanese chassis, i own it, if comparing with US/EU cars.
Just let's to be exciting and fun, if really this happening i could run my car without any lead, less than 1300G with BL system.

Last edited by mac853; 08-27-2008 at 10:38 AM.
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Old 09-01-2008, 12:09 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by mac853 View Post
Wow, but which makes?
If could be the japanese chassis, i own it, if comparing with US/EU cars.
Just let's to be exciting and fun, if really this happening i could run my car without any lead, less than 1300G with BL system.
Hey, could somebody confirm about these comments, rather than Losi and Magic, still has other makes to make a chassis specially designed for Lipos, in the case i still didn't hear nothing about this rumour in the Japan's sites.

Should be from EU/US brands?
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Old 09-15-2008, 03:06 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drifter73 View Post
Why dont they just add weight to the inside of the casing and just specify them as a TC lipo. Unless every chassis puts the lipo in the center, we will always have to add weight to get it balanced. Lowering the min weight will not help. Just make the lipos heavier!
The only ones adding wieght to packs right now is maxamps. Which is nice and there is no messing with lead weights.
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