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Old 08-23-2008, 03:07 PM   #16
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Here is the main issue I have with universal. Chassis shapes and hole patterns will vary chassis to chassis. So now instead of drilling and taping the 14 holes I put in for just the Mi3 (I added plenty of optional locations for people that locate their electronics differently). So then since the shape and hole patterns vary, I end up drill, tapping say 30-40 holes and slotting several locations trying to accomidate everyone. Also we are using 1/4 dowel pins to locate the chassis, those are fairly inexpensive and accurate. Replace those with more "universal" and adjustable hardware and add more $$ and time. And every chassis has to be layed out because they dont just hand out cad models on these, I have to inspect, dimension, and build a solid cad model for each chassis. Now everyone will have to pay that extra machine time and reasearch time (longer wait as well).

I will be able to quickly mod this program to suit other chassis and one by one I hope to get the top 4-5 models fairly quickly. So...enough of business 101..(and thank you for the ideas guys..no problem putting all our heads together.)

Now...on the topic of buying for 2 years then new chassis. This cost is just over 2 sets of tires, and less then a LiPo...sell it with the car and get a real happy buyer for a bit more $$ as well.

Also...you could re-drill it yourself and tap new holes, its 6061 T6 aluminum, stable, cuts well, and will last many years if cared for.

Its been a long day...I put in 14 hours and knocked out 17 of these and looks like 10 are gone...so dont debate too long guys. Otherwise the competition will be doing this while your doing this.

'Nuff said
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Old 08-25-2008, 08:28 AM   #17
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The chassis wasn't changed with the MI-3.5
I had heard that and am glad to get confirmation. Just to be sure I asked JB to see if there was a 3.5 around to quickly drop on the plate to confirm.

Good luck in Vegas guys and enjoy the new tool.
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Old 08-25-2008, 04:24 PM   #18
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Good luck in Vegas guys and enjoy the new tool.
you mean the plate.... not ....

and yes indeed good luck to all

btw kevin, you did save me one didn't you. we'll talk about the custom name engraving later
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Old 08-26-2008, 06:47 AM   #19
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Beautiful work, Kevin. Ordered mine last night.
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Old 08-26-2008, 06:55 AM   #20
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On technicality my car is a 3.5 so he can use mine if he wishes


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I had heard that and am glad to get confirmation. Just to be sure I asked JB to see if there was a 3.5 around to quickly drop on the plate to confirm.

Good luck in Vegas guys and enjoy the new tool.
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Old 08-26-2008, 03:33 PM   #21
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btw kevin, you did save me one didn't you. we'll talk about the custom name engraving later
...So you can throw dirt all over it? You know...your suppose to go to Disney Land after you win the championship...not go play in the dirt.

Got you covered Ritchie.
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Old 08-27-2008, 10:04 AM   #22
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Will a scratched up one be ok? I can take mine off my car...

Or I could order a new one if needed...let me know...
Good luck on ordering an ITF right now. They are on backorder about everywhere. I guess the new xxR kits used them all up.

Anyway, I can get what I need by just looking at yours. I plan to be at SIR tonight if you can make it.
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Old 08-28-2008, 12:00 PM   #23
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can you have mi3.5 and my name on it???
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Old 08-28-2008, 02:34 PM   #24
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hi , ive tried 2 email you but 2 no joy !
i would be interested in one of these if you
could add me 2 your list thanx
glenn
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Old 08-28-2008, 05:12 PM   #25
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can you have mi3.5 and my name on it???
I did one custom engrave for JB since his was the prototype and it was easy to delete the code for the others to build. We left room for custom engraving to be done on the plate itself, but doing on a $110,000 CNC mill is not cost effective, and presents production problems so we've elected not to....sorry.

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hi , ive tried 2 email you but 2 no joy !
i would be interested in one of these if you
could add me 2 your list thanx
glenn
Not sure why that is other then spam filter getting to your email. Yes, I have several left and they are now available on the website. Here is the link.

http://www.ppdbillet.com/schumacher_mi3.html
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Old 08-29-2008, 02:24 AM   #26
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This is definitely a nice piece of engineering and craftmanship, no doubt about that. But having read the story in the Schumacher thread and now here, it still puzzles me why would anyone actually NEED something like that. I understand why you would WANT one, because it looks nice and adds a lot of gizmo-factor to your pit, but being a rational person and an engineer I don't understand the practical value...
Sure, it's nice to bolt down your chassis and adjust droop perfectly... but if your chassis is not tweaked, you can do it the conventional way as well. On the other hand, if your chassis IS tweaked, you bolt it down to this board, adjust it, then after you remove the car from the board, it will still be banana-shaped, so all your hard work will go down the drain at the very moment. I't rather set my car up the way it will run on the track, not with any additional stuff bolted to it.
And even if you have one of those cool billet pieces, you would still need a conventional setup board, there's no way around that.

It would make hell of a cool paperweight though... I know this is how it would end up in my pit, after I'd have finished drooling over it. YMMV...
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Old 08-29-2008, 06:56 AM   #27
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you miss understand what this board does for you as a racer. This thing does not fix a chassis is has a perm tweek to it or a bulkhead that is bent. If you race and never hit a board, then this product is not for you. But here at the IIC, I have not seen that racer yet. I believe that all the top 10 guys have had a few "Board meetings" this week.

this week board is made to help fix a tweek in the car from a board hit. You loosen all the bulkhead screws and all the top plate screws. then you bolt your bar to the plate and then you tighten all the screws. remember that even though all the bulkheads, top decks and chassis are flat and straight, it does not mean that you can not induce a tweek into the whole arangement.

but to each his own. if you drive a tweeked car and enjoy running a tweeked cars. and if you like to leave it tweek and possible cause the entire chassis plate to set in that twisted mode, then this tweek plate is not for you. can you resolve these problems with a standard flat board? yes, but you will need at least 3 hands to do the same thing this tweek boards does.
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Old 08-29-2008, 07:57 AM   #28
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OK, I'm quilty of not noticing the drilled holes for bulkhead lower screws.
I definitely don't enjoy tweaked cars and I rarely run one... even without this board. But as you say, to each their own, and this is a good looking piece of machinery
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Old 08-29-2008, 08:25 AM   #29
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It's a pretty trick piece.

Basically, you loosen up the chassis/bulkhead screws, clamp the chassis to the plate in race setup, then re-tighten all previously loosened screws to ensure a perfectly square and true chassis. Simple and easy. This plate is not just a shinny piece of metal. I hit things (a lot) and anything that keeps my settings all coming from one square foundation does nothing but keep me from chasing my tail.

The droop setting ability is purely a bonus, and speaking for myself, this is one of the most frustrating settings I ever make on a chassis.


I plan on doing almost NO work on my cars at the track this winter, so anything to keep my chassis where they belong helps me with my racing goals.



That's just me, YMMV.
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Old 08-29-2008, 10:07 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by olev View Post
but being a rational person and an engineer I don't understand the practical value...
Sure, it's nice to bolt down your chassis and adjust droop perfectly... but if your chassis is not tweaked, you can do it the conventional way as well. On the other hand, if your chassis IS tweaked, you bolt it down to this board, adjust it, then after you remove the car from the board, it will still be banana-shaped, so all your hard work will go down the drain at the very moment.
As an engineer you should understand that unless there are positive locking mechanisms between 2 seperate mating pieces, impact can make the pieces shift from one to another. So when bolting bulkheads to chassis, and top deck to bulkheads, the same shifting can occur from just the tightening of the screws since a screw is not a positive locking part.

The setup board / tweak plate is a tool to prevent that tweak causing shift during assembly and help release that shift that may have just occured from impact. With the chassis clamped flat, you tighten the bulkheads thru the access holes from underneath then the top deck. Your parts do not have to be bent to have a tweaked chassis, there is enough play in bolt holes and threads to hold tweak from impact or....improper assembly. Also keep in mind, it is a tool that is dead flat that quickly tells you if your chassis is tweaked.

This issue is more prominent with the thinner chassis down to 2mm such as the TC5 and Mi3, so don't look for us to build it for the 3.5mm + chassis unless there is a real known problem.

For everyone?? No. For the serious racer that wants to eliminate another variable in the racing equation and improve run to run repeatability?? Yes.
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Last edited by Verndog; 08-29-2008 at 10:23 AM.
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