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Old 08-20-2008, 06:04 AM   #1
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Default Just bought a Tamiya TB03

Hello there,

I am currently in Japan and have been looking into the RC Car scene. I was suprised at how cheap some of the kits are.

Anyway, I just bought myself a Tamiya TB03 Arta Garaiya. Picked it up for $127. I was in the shop for about an hour asking all sorts of questions.

Bought a Ko Propo Ex-5 Master S radio setup. There were a few options available, but I chose to go this setup over the Futuba PL2 because the Ko Propo had a better ESC and the guy said it could accept any motor.

This is my first RC car for 15 years! I did a bit of research and was set on a TA 05 but chose the shaft drive model TB 03 instead. Hopefully i made a good choice.

Seeing as I got the better ESC, I want to change the motor in the near future too.

Also bought a GP Nimh H-MPV 3700mah battery for $40.

I will post some pictures shortly.

I bought some hop up parts which i will take a photo of, but are there any particular hop up parts i should buy taking advantage of the cheaper bits before I return to Sydney Australia?

Thanks for your feedback!
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Old 08-20-2008, 09:25 AM   #2
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dont build the car up w/stock dogbones, get some universals front and rear. thats what comes to mind right from word go.

good luck with it, have fun

R
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Old 08-20-2008, 09:27 AM   #3
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Yes, at least for the front because they tend to get bent with faster motors/collisions , but I've never had problems with running dogbones in the rear (use an 0-ring in the cup with dogbones if there's too much slop.)
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Old 08-20-2008, 01:26 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultegrasti View Post
dont build the car up w/stock dogbones, get some universals front and rear. thats what comes to mind right from word go.

good luck with it, have fun

R
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Old 08-20-2008, 03:51 PM   #5
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might want to get some CF reinforced C-hubs and bevel gear sets. Also, be very careful and precise when shimming the gears. Too loose and increase chance of breaking teeths, too tight and kill the advantage of the shaft drive.
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Old 08-21-2008, 04:29 AM   #6
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I'd also get the 416 steering knuckles, as they are made from reinforced carbon plastic and the king pins will stay put much better. They rip out quite easily with the stock bits.

Ask me how I know...



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Old 08-23-2008, 07:53 PM   #7
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Just arrived back in Australia :-)

Thanks for you advice on the parts. I went back to RC Champ and bought front and rear dogbones (dont even know what that means yet), another battery and upgraded motor.

I will post some pics of the gear I bought. I hope it is what you were referring to. I asked the assistant there but I dont know much about the parts and what does what as of yet :-(

Hopefully it will be a good setup. I spent the extra for the speed controller and radio, batteries and motor. I need to buy a charger now. Any recommendations for a charger? Would like option of 12v too.

So being a newbie, is the gear I bought any good? Speed controller, batteries etc? I tried to do a bit of research as asking the assistant questions.

Gotta put the thing together now :-)

Cheers!
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Old 08-24-2008, 06:28 AM   #8
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You seem to have both the universals and dogbones. You don't need both. The Universals are the preferred option.
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Old 08-24-2008, 07:32 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbones View Post
might want to get some CF reinforced C-hubs and bevel gear sets. Also, be very careful and precise when shimming the gears. Too loose and increase chance of breaking teeths, too tight and kill the advantage of the shaft drive.
The Carbon reinforced parts are stiffer but they tend to break easier than the regular part. Stiffer is not stronger.
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Old 08-24-2008, 09:34 AM   #10
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Stocker beat me to it!

The dogbones are for connecting the outdrives (is this the right term? these are the things that the wheel hexes actually go on) whereas the universals replace both the dogbones and the outdrives. You'll need to put a pin to connect the outdrive for the universal and the swing shaft, and they're conveniently next to each other in that picture you laid out.

What class are you racing in? Definitely we would need to know what kind of class you're looking into before we know what you can get for ESCs, batteries and motors. I dunno too much about the radio or ESC you got, but KO Propo is a good company.

Wait... are you even racing in a class, or just doing this for fun? Either way, welcome back to RC's
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Old 08-24-2008, 11:04 AM   #11
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Quote:
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The Carbon reinforced parts are stiffer but they tend to break easier than the regular part. Stiffer is not stronger.
That is true to some point. But there have been reports that those normal parts break just as easy. Seems that the plastic used is not the same pliable ones from the TA05. The arms, C-hubs, knuckles are too soft for racing, and the car feels mushy in turns especially when using good tires. When I switched over to my 416 susparts, I immediately noticed a difference. my 2C.
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Old 08-24-2008, 03:33 PM   #12
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I will build up the car with the universals and leave the rest for spares.

At first I will be using the car for fun and then I will look to see where I can have a blast on a track and might join a club and start racing.

Have to build the car first, looks like it will take a while!
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Old 09-10-2008, 09:58 PM   #13
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Finally got the car built. Upgraded the stock motor to a Tamiya 23T TZ after the first battery. Now looking for the next step.

What would be a few motors I could look into for insane speed/torque without going brushless.

How do I find out what is the maximum turn motor that my ESC can handle? I looked through the manual and it did not say anything about motor turns, just specifications on the AMPS the ECS can deliver etc.

Cheers.
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Old 09-10-2008, 10:12 PM   #14
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Here are the specs

Control method: Changeable control
* The maximum peak current:960A (FET specs.)
* Continuous, maximum current: 240A (FET specs.)
* Accessory: Ultimate Shotki Diode Single, Ultimate Condenser, 15 GA
* Size: 32.6x29.0x19.4.4mm (size of case)
* 25.3g in weight (The silicon wire excluded)
* Proper power-supply voltage: 4.8-8.4V (4-7 cells)
* Drive frequency: 0.56-5.26KHz (64 steps) initialization 2.0kHz
* Output voltage for receiver: 6V (input 7.2v)
* Output current for receiver: 2A (maximum peak)
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Old 09-11-2008, 02:04 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
The Carbon reinforced parts are stiffer but they tend to break easier than the regular part. Stiffer is not stronger.
You should feel the Chubs on this kit. You can literally twist the suspension to the point where you have like 25degrees of caster. The car is unresponsive with anything more than silver can. Even worse if you have good tires on. Since they can twist so much, it tends to tear than shatter. The 416 ones are just as easy to break, but at least your car feels responsive.

Tamiya probably made the plastic like this on purpose so there is a distinct difference between the CF reinforced version. There are reports where guys have broken the bulkheads (shock tower, ball stud, etc). Loads of option parts coming in Nov.
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