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Old 10-10-2008, 01:58 AM   #76
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Originally Posted by vlozity View Post
Kwax, i too am new to these system, maybe you should just check the esc settings and throttle adjustments ... i dont feel cogging at low throttle with my 9T motor
May i have an example of what ur settings are at?

I have on 4200 east power nihms
Forward with reverse and break
Drag break @ 10%
NO Low voltage cut off
Start mode punch @ level 3
Neutral range 6%
Timing on 0degrees

edit: I just tried it with no drag break. its less laggy at low throttle. I put the punch up a lil. I think its slowly going away. =]
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Old 10-10-2008, 02:24 AM   #77
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Did some more test, Upped the timing to 3.75. no drag break and punch on 4.

Car has no pulsing jiggering at low throttle now..

I freaked out abit however cause it started to play up but it was just the good ol ESC detecing a transmitter loss and OH what do u know, my remote's red L.e.d is blinking.. hehe..pretty nifty lil unit. *thumbs up* so far for now.
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Old 10-10-2008, 02:30 AM   #78
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@Kwax, my settings are mostly default. here they are ...

1. Running Mode - 2 = Forward reverse with break (default)
2. Drag Brake Force - 3 = 10% (default)
3. Low voltage cut-off threshold - 1 = no protection (default)
4. Start Mode (Punch) - 3 = Agressive (default)
5. Maximum break force - 2 = 50%
6. Maximum reverse force - 1 = 25%
7. Initial brake force - 1 = drag break force (default)
8. Neutral range - 2 = normal (default)
9. Timing - 5 = 15.00 (default)
10. Motor Type - 1 = brushless (default)
11. Over-heat protection - 1 = 95 degress (default)

my setup is on a TA03F-S TRF with Pro gears and 23T pinion (FDR 7.34). swapping 3 stick pack batteries a Tamiya 3700HV (x2) and Tamiya 2400SP. Futaba 2PL FM, R153F and 3050 servo. its a basic setup but i think i hit the sweet spot coz it goes sideways better than any of my former chassis.
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Old 10-10-2008, 04:33 AM   #79
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Ok just took it for a bash at the vacant lot / development behind my house, a good 20-25 minutes on a flat block with lots of little jumps etc. 70 degrees ambient outside, ESC was cool, battery came off at 104 (4200mah 7 cell nimg) motor max temp was 185.5 Had it geared 18/86 in the Slash for a FDR of 13.00 Running all default ESC settings except timing at 0 to keep temp down

So perhaps its undergeared? Might try the 23 back on there, do another "similar" bash on that block tomorrow and compare.

ESC power switch broke (useless rubbish, poorly put together) so have soldered the two wires together, it now turns on when I connect the battery.
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Old 10-10-2008, 04:39 AM   #80
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20-25 minbs? 185 degrees? Too long and too hot. You will cook your magnets in the rotor and bye bye motor
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Old 10-10-2008, 04:57 AM   #81
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yer definately too hot, I want it to sit around 140 after a bash so put the 23t pinion on too see if I am undergeared as I had no esc or battery temp issues.
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Old 10-10-2008, 07:33 AM   #82
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Does this EZrun speedo have a power cap?
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Old 10-10-2008, 07:49 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nrtv20 View Post
Does this EZrun speedo have a power cap?
yes - hidden below fan.

you shouldn't run any car with any motor 20mns in a row.

Paul
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Old 10-10-2008, 09:10 AM   #84
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The esc switch comment is now an issue it would seem.

I have now read several comments that the on/off switch is breaking very easy.

Hopefully it will be looked into.. but I guess a micro switch from an electronics store will do the trick.



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Old 10-10-2008, 02:16 PM   #85
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Im not having any issues so far with the on and off switch. I usually do with many other brands and types but this one seems to be holding up well for me personally.

vlozity:filo drifter aye! *hi five*. I am a srcd Oz drifter :P 3 guys in my team are philo, we just came back from melbourne and had a syd vs Melb @ their local motor show and we WON! but my car sucked and I lost my battle on that day because I didnt setup the Ezrunbrushless properly. Kicking myself.

anywho, Ill try out ur settings and let u know how i go. Gonna go watch some 1:1 dori now.
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Old 10-10-2008, 08:47 PM   #86
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For those with questions regarding the ezrun 60a esc, I have one in the 3905 e-maxx with a single velineon motor, (a 10 turn 3500kv I believe), and that sucker is tough to beat and so far impossible to kill. The thing is tiny though, but thats a plus for mounting. The velineon motor plugged right in, but I had to switch the yellow and orange wires to change polarity. For the money (45.00 + 9.99 shipping), it is good considering the 3905 e-maxx is heavy with bigger tires and a longer chassis some may consider it a 1/8 scale and it wasn't designed to propell something that big. Setting it is easy once you figure it out. The brakes are powerful enough to violently flip the truck over if set @ 100%. It always stays cool but my gearing is fairly low however run time and tourqe are phenomenal on one homemade 7.4v li-ion pack. Well my switch hasn't failed yet and will be easy to replace as earlier suggested. Hope this helps anyone considering this esc.
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Old 10-11-2008, 03:17 AM   #87
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What gearing are using for the E-Maxx?

I have no problems with the ESC heat either (thus far)
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Old 10-11-2008, 05:31 AM   #88
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@Kwax, cool ... congratz on the win, but sorry to hear about your car. let me know if it works for you as i have no real bud to compare notes locally. btw, join us at http://driftercentral.com/forums ... hope to cya there!
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Old 10-11-2008, 05:41 AM   #89
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Default eZRUN Brushless combo

I have just got back from my office in Thailand but while I was there I noticed the boys at the track are using the above combo they state they are very good, very competative against the more expensive brands and at AU$96 for the brushless motor and ESC at todays currency exchange I say thats a great deal.
Unfortunatly I don't know how to attach photo's but I did take photo's of motors and ESC.
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Old 10-11-2008, 06:48 AM   #90
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I guess it's a stupid question to ask if the 35A will take a regular 17.5 motor?
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