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Old 03-06-2010, 12:13 PM   #826
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thanks i changed it some days ago. all has been installed well. you can check it out here. http://www.rctech.net/forum/7096387-post785.html

sidenote: other companies program boxes seem to be pretty similar.

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Old 03-06-2010, 01:47 PM   #827
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Can someone with firsthand knowledge tell me the power difference between the 9t(4300 380 size) motor vs. the Ezrun sensored 540 motor? It only seems logically that the 540 is more powerful, so no assumptions or guesses please. Cuz I already made the same assumption when picking a motor for my SCRT10, probably the heaviest of the offroad 1/10 vehicles. I ran a Novak Ballistic 8.5(5000kv) and it runs hot after 5 minutes. Another guy at the track has the 9t 380 size motor in the same vehicle, running 4 teeth taller pinion then me an it comes off after 15 minutes at 140-150 degrees.

I would prefer to run sensored, that is why I ask if the sensored motor of similar KV to the 9t make the same or more power than the 9t 380 motor. if it doesn't, then I am going to get the 9t.

Thanks in advance
David
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Old 03-06-2010, 03:07 PM   #828
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i cudnt tell you myself.

Today i went out for a few runs. i played with the timing from 0 to 22.5% and i cant really tell a real difference. is there supposed to be a noticeable difference or not?
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Old 03-07-2010, 03:44 AM   #829
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Today i went out for a few runs. i played with the timing from 0 to 22.5% and i cant really tell a real difference. is there supposed to be a noticeable difference or not?
You'd only notice an increase in top speed.
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Old 03-07-2010, 03:48 AM   #830
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i cudnt tell you myself.

Today i went out for a few runs. i played with the timing from 0 to 22.5% and i cant really tell a real difference. is there supposed to be a noticeable difference or not?
The higher your timing, the lower your low-rpm torque.
The higher your timing, the higher your rpm.
I tried all of the values and there is a difference.
I suggest you to set your DDR punch with your timing. When you put a high timing, try a high DDR punch to have a better low-rpm torque.
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:35 AM   #831
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ok ill try that next time first thing. possibly my pack was discharging at the same time i began to mess with it.
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:50 AM   #832
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Can someone with firsthand knowledge tell me the power difference between the 9t(4300 380 size) motor vs. the Ezrun sensored 540 motor? ....

Thanks in advance
David
this is something i ran across while looking for an answer tomy own question; from castle's site.

"A high power capable brushless motor in electrical engineering and physics terms, has unlimited torque. We live in “the real world” so technically for us that’s not totally true, but – a brushed motor has a torque level that due to its design has an upper limit, regardless of how much power is being applied to it. That limit is low enough that you can see it clearly on an average track On the other hand, a high power brushless motor’s limit to torque in an RC vehicle is not within the bounds of the motor itself so much, but rather falls on the ability of the battery to deliver current to it. We generally don’t describe these motors in terms of “one has more torque than the other”, but rather “the 7700Kv motor is faster and draws more current than a 5700Kv motor in the same vehicle”. It draws more current, because it’s making the car go faster and doing more work than the 5700 motor is. As long as the batteries used are very good at supplying current without an excess of voltage depression (low internal resistance is good) both motors will appear to have the same torque, even though one is much faster than the other. Battery technology is constantly improving, and the first thing you’ll notice when you use a very good battery pack (or perhaps trying a Lipo pack for the first time) with these systems is a more “punchy” feel when you accelerate. The faster you set up the car to go at full throttle, the more reliant you are on good batteries to flow that current into the motor and maintain acceleration performance. So think of torque as a function of battery capability only.

maybe that helps..
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Old 03-07-2010, 06:47 PM   #833
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Hi SG1
We also run a fixed gearing, speedo and motor class(HW EZRUN 60amp,HW 17.5, any brand lipo up to 5000mha, 4.2FDR). When first did testing, comparing 4 different cars,Tamiyas, Losi, XRAY, all with different internal ratios, all different wieghts, they showed no noticable difference in top end speed down the straight. The big difference was seen after several laps due to car set-up, free drivetrains and driver ability(dam that last one!) So if your getting left behind I might suggest set the punch control to the setting that makes the car comfortable to drive, insure that your car is as free as it can be or free-er, try different set-ups and practice,practice,practice
I'm using it in a 1/18 car running oval. The car runs approx. .2-.3 sec per lap faster with a speedcontroller that has higher timing. I think at this point it's just a timing issue.
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Old 03-08-2010, 01:54 AM   #834
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Is it possible to run a 17.5 sensored motor with this speedy.
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Old 03-11-2010, 08:27 PM   #835
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Is it possible to run a 17.5 sensored motor with this speedy.
the ESC is sensorless. unless the sensorless motor can run without being plugged? i dont know too much about sensored.


Can someone tell me where the braking force comes from? is this extra power being drawn from the battery or what? Im asking if i shud do without drag break if its just extra energy being used.
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Old 03-14-2010, 12:06 AM   #836
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so,,my on/off switch broke at the lever knob.
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Old 03-19-2010, 03:58 AM   #837
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Default HobbyWing EzRun ESC Temperature Overheat problem

Hi I am having Temperature overheat problems with my Hobby Wing EzRun ESC for two months now. Below are all the information of my car:

Tamiya TA05 (Belt Driven)
HobbyWing EzRun brushless ESC 60A (with Fan)
HobbyWing EzRun 5.5T Brushless Motor
5000mah 25C 2S Lipo Battery
Spur Gear 70T
Pinion Gear (25T, 24T, 22T, 18T, 17T) I've Tried all these

After approximately 2-3mins the esc temp will go above 50 degrees Celsius and the overheat protection will activate then cut-off the power.
I definitely cannot turn off the overheat protection coz it will burn my esc.

Need Help, thanks.
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Old 03-19-2010, 08:33 PM   #838
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Are you running that setup in hot weather? If not it shouldn't be overheating unless you have some major binding somwhere. If you have another car try it in another car. Does your car roll easily without power?

Oh btw the ESC isn't supposed to thermal at 50C. The thermal cutoff is around 65C. Is the fan on the ESC working?
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Old 03-20-2010, 06:35 PM   #839
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I have had the same problem 3 min in shuts down,but i looked into it and its not the speedy the motor is the cause im not running motor fans, that wouldnt help.Try motor fans man.
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Old 03-20-2010, 08:27 PM   #840
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I have had the same problem 3 min in shuts down,but i looked into it and its not the speedy the motor is the cause im not running motor fans, that wouldnt help.Try motor fans man.
There is no way for the ESC to shut down the system due to motor overheating. If the motor overheats it will still operate until it eventually burns up and melts the plastic/rubber coating around the rotor.

There is definitely something wrong with your gearing if your motor overheats and melts.

Are you running a separate temp probe or did you use a temp gun to see how hot the motor got?
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Last edited by PaPeRo; 03-20-2010 at 09:00 PM.
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