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Old 12-29-2009, 02:26 PM   #736
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Originally Posted by cheebs View Post
still no answer from hobbywing its like they don't wanna honor their product. any advice here?
Hi Cheebs, sorry for the delayed reaction but have been away. To be honest mate it’s really not worth the shipping to get an exchange. I am not defending HW too much but if you look at the major ESC suppliers most give only a 120day LIMITED warranty. Having owned most ‘premium’ brands over the years I am always surprised to find that any time I need to use the warranty it ends up being ‘my fault – hence chargeable’. This is why I choose to use HW ESC’s as I pay so little for them that if I fry one then it is still cheaper than the likes of LRP et al.
I would suggest that your first port of call is the eBay shop where you bought the ESC, and if you want the premium type customer service then this is available if you buy the same products but labelled Speed Passion. What we are in effect doing here is buying these things OEM and if we look at the PC world then OEM hardware ALWAYS carries a much shorter and more limited warranty.
If you are looking for a repair then Random Spike (member) has the telephone number of a good guy in the North of England who repairs ALL ESC’s but it’s gonna cost money and the 60 Amp Ezruns can be had for £35 ($50 ish), so it does seem maybe a little pointless.

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Originally Posted by mezan View Post
Hi guys. I'm guessing this might be a good place to asked. I have the Yeah Racing 9T + 35A Combo. Seems to be similar to the eZRUN. I'm currently experiencing heat issues with my current setup (hot to touch); Spur: 104T (64P) Pinion: 38T (64P) Center Pulley: 18T Rear Pulley: 37T Front Pulley: 37T FDR: 5.62 Battery: Yeah Racing 4000mah 25C Car: TA05 V2 Should I increase or lower down my FDR? I'm using my car for drifting, so I need more torque.
Hi Mezan, Having read further down, most people have already suggested the FDR to be easier on the motor, however having owned ‘a few’ of the 35A as well as the 60A ones, I can only suggest that although the 35A ships with the 9T this is on the limit of the rating for the ESC and a better option is a 12 or 13T for that ESC or go for the much better 60A ESC and run the 9T, I have used this combo and it ROCKS in every way. I have also had issues with the 35A ESC’s in the past and to be honest they are just toys, the 60A and the XeRuns 60/120 are the way to go for race purposes. Hope that this helps but feel free to ignore me if it doesn’t lol.

While I am on the subject of XeRuns..........
I have taken the time to update my Hobbywing LCD programmer with the latest Speed Passion 1.32 software (PM me if you want a copy) and have now flashed my 120Amp XeRun with the 110 speed Passion STOCK profile, and guess what we have a sort of turbo function  .
Motor now screams like a banshee and there is a noticeable ‘step’ on full throttle when the second part of the profile kicks up the timing on the motor. Highly recommend this but only at your own risk.
I have all the software needed and will happily pass it on to anyone who wants it.
On the same subject, if you look at the software upgrade videos on Speed Passion .net you will spot a hardware version for the ESC HW427_01 this is the same hardware version as the Hobbywing 120SD. So all denials from SP are moot this is DEFINITIVE Proof that the XeRun 60A is a GT2.0 LPF and the 120A is a GT2.0 Pro.
I will update this thread with gearing changes from the standard due to the timing changes on the new STOCK software, at the moment looking at about 6.2 but will play and give more info later.

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Old 12-29-2009, 03:32 PM   #737
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Originally Posted by mjamesf View Post
Hi I'm newbie in EP Touring. I just bought the Ezrun 5.5T BL ESC 60A Combo.
My car is TA-05 4WD Belt Driven. I'm focusing more on Touring but I also drift just for fun and very seldom. My Pinion gear is 22T Spur gear 70T. My Battery is Nosram 3300mah NIMH but I'm changing to Li-po in a few weeks. My shell is HPI Nissan 350Z Greddy.

Just want to ask some questions:
1) What's FDR?
2) What's the formula to get the gear ratio? In tamiya manual its [(Spur/Pinion)x2.25] but I compare to others looks like their formula is different.
3) How to get internal gear ratio?
4) What's Total Gear Ratio & Final Gear Ratio? (Why is there so many types of gear ratio)
5) What's the suggested Temperature for my Motor, ESC, & Battery so I will know if i'm overheating my electronics.
6)What's the suggested gear ratio if I want to get the maximum speed from my Brushless System? (Please state Pinion & Spur gear Teeth No.)
7)What's the suggested Li-po battery & specs to use with my BL System?
8) If I want to change gear ratio is it important to change both pinion & spur gear or I can just always stick to 1 pinion/spur and just always change the other to adjust.

Please can someone answer all the items
You bought a 5.5t motor to begin with?? whatever.. I'll try my best to answer a few of your questions, though i'm still relatively new to this (only been really racing for half a year, though i've had my car for 2 years).

FDR is Final Drive Ratio. Look in your manual, there should be a ratio somewhere of what your getting out of your diff. then (i forgot the calculation) you do some number stuff (again, forgot the equation, sorry), and that gives you your FDR. FDR's are supposed to be around 4.5 for touring cars, as a rough estimate..Final Drive is like, the eficentency of what your diff is makin, plus you spur/pinion.

You don't want your Motor/ESC to go over 180'. Castle tells people 200', but i'd say 180 to be safe.

For a suggested pinion/spur... I honestly have no idea... Its different for every car, motor, etc. I have a gear ratio of 35/65, whereas i see people at the track using much bigger gears, ex. 40/105. It varies way to much for me to tell.

For a Lipo, you need to know a few terms. mAh, is capacity. Larger mAh, more run time. I have a 5000 Venom Lipo, and i get about 35 minutes of rutime off it. I can almost do a whole raceday without recharging. Voltage. Most Lipo's are 7.4 volts, from 2 cells. I don't know what kind of voltage the eZRUN's can take, but you probably wanna go with a 7.4 volt battery.

For very small adjustments, you can get away with just adding or knocking off 1 or 2 teeth. But idk how much yours needs to be changed. You'll probably need a completely different ratio. And when i say you may get away with just changing pinions, i wouldn't do that other than your first time, to get a feel for what a change will affect your car, or for small adjustments after you've changed the spur, and you just need that extra speed, or punch.

Hope that helps to answer at least some of your questions!!
Dan

Edit: I looked at my paperwork on my motor, and it said not to let the motor go over 160-175'. Also, you have a PM sir, check out that site
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Last edited by TC4Racer123; 12-29-2009 at 04:30 PM.
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:55 AM   #738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TC4Racer123 View Post
You bought a 5.5t motor to begin with?? whatever.. I'll try my best to answer a few of your questions, though i'm still relatively new to this (only been really racing for half a year, though i've had my car for 2 years).

FDR is Final Drive Ratio. Look in your manual, there should be a ratio somewhere of what your getting out of your diff. then (i forgot the calculation) you do some number stuff (again, forgot the equation, sorry), and that gives you your FDR. FDR's are supposed to be around 4.5 for touring cars, as a rough estimate..Final Drive is like, the eficentency of what your diff is makin, plus you spur/pinion.

You don't want your Motor/ESC to go over 180'. Castle tells people 200', but i'd say 180 to be safe.

For a suggested pinion/spur... I honestly have no idea... Its different for every car, motor, etc. I have a gear ratio of 35/65, whereas i see people at the track using much bigger gears, ex. 40/105. It varies way to much for me to tell.

For a Lipo, you need to know a few terms. mAh, is capacity. Larger mAh, more run time. I have a 5000 Venom Lipo, and i get about 35 minutes of rutime off it. I can almost do a whole raceday without recharging. Voltage. Most Lipo's are 7.4 volts, from 2 cells. I don't know what kind of voltage the eZRUN's can take, but you probably wanna go with a 7.4 volt battery.

For very small adjustments, you can get away with just adding or knocking off 1 or 2 teeth. But idk how much yours needs to be changed. You'll probably need a completely different ratio. And when i say you may get away with just changing pinions, i wouldn't do that other than your first time, to get a feel for what a change will affect your car, or for small adjustments after you've changed the spur, and you just need that extra speed, or punch.

Hope that helps to answer at least some of your questions!!
Dan

Edit: I looked at my paperwork on my motor, and it said not to let the motor go over 160-175'. Also, you have a PM sir, check out that site
Thanks so much bro! I've been waiting for someone to reply actually my first motor is 11.5T then I want to go faster that's why I bought the 5.5T
Thanks again for the info.
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Old 01-03-2010, 10:46 AM   #739
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No problem man. PM if you have other questions, i'll do my best to answer them.
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Old 01-07-2010, 08:04 PM   #740
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Default Which system to run?

Hi All, I apologize in advance for my noobiness. Anyway, i'm just getting back into electric touring after about 8 years and am completely lost with all the new technology that has came out. (brushless/lipo) So i've been looking for a brushless system to put into a new touring car i'm building up just for bashing (either tt01 or tb03) and needed some help. I wanted a motor that's equivalent to a modified stock brushed motor. From my understand a 13.5t is the equivalent in brushless. I noticed that some of the motors included in the combos aren't 540 standard sized. i am aware that the ".5t" refers to a 540 sized motor. Basically, i'm wondering what you guys would recommend for my setup? Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-08-2010, 09:24 AM   #741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjamesf View Post
Thanks so much bro! I've been waiting for someone to reply actually my first motor is 11.5T then I want to go faster that's why I bought the 5.5T
Thanks again for the info.
FDR 4.5 is waay too low for the 5.5T. I have that combo and my FDR is around 6-7, depending on track. To calculate FDR, its Spur/Pinion x Internal ratio (Diff Pulley/Drive Pulley connected to the spur).
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Old 01-08-2010, 09:29 AM   #742
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Originally Posted by atrain62 View Post
Hi All, I apologize in advance for my noobiness. Anyway, i'm just getting back into electric touring after about 8 years and am completely lost with all the new technology that has came out. (brushless/lipo) So i've been looking for a brushless system to put into a new touring car i'm building up just for bashing (either tt01 or tb03) and needed some help. I wanted a motor that's equivalent to a modified stock brushed motor. From my understand a 13.5t is the equivalent in brushless. I noticed that some of the motors included in the combos aren't 540 standard sized. i am aware that the ".5t" refers to a 540 sized motor. Basically, i'm wondering what you guys would recommend for my setup? Thanks in advance.
The .5 means the stator winds starts at the endbell and are joined at the output shaft end where as the non .5 stator winds starts and are joined at the endbell only.
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:17 PM   #743
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Hi
I have a question, can i use the v1 program card with the new 60A V2 ESC?
Thanks
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Old 01-13-2010, 01:13 PM   #744
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Default Is "cogging" that noticeable

hi All

My brushed motor has blown and i was looking at getting a Reedy to replace it but i have found the EZRUN 8.5 system and was wondering about this cogging that i have been reading about.

I will use the system in a F109 indoors on carpet - will i really notice anything with the sensorless system as for the money i will spend on a brushed motor i can put a bit more and get this. I dont want to put it in if its going to make racing difficult as i want it to be plug and play!!

Also if its a bit quick you can reduce the power or throttle max i assume.

Thanks in advance

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Old 01-13-2010, 01:49 PM   #745
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For sensorless, cogging usually happens at higher turns. I haven't experienced any cogging at anything below 13.5 with the Ezrun. The 17.5 I have right now with my Ezrun 60A V2 does cog slightly when the throttle input is at the first 10% of the entire throw... So you might not get as smooth of a response on the low end... But up on the driver stand, I don't notice the cogging effect at all, even at low throttle...

If you want to make sure, you can go for the Xerun series, which are the sensored series from Hobbywing... Another good option is to get a refurbished Havoc system from Novak, they are dirt cheap and sensored too...
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Old 01-13-2010, 02:29 PM   #746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losi8lunie View Post
hi All

My brushed motor has blown and i was looking at getting a Reedy to replace it but i have found the EZRUN 8.5 system and was wondering about this cogging that i have been reading about.

I will use the system in a F109 indoors on carpet - will i really notice anything with the sensorless system as for the money i will spend on a brushed motor i can put a bit more and get this. I dont want to put it in if its going to make racing difficult as i want it to be plug and play!!

Also if its a bit quick you can reduce the power or throttle max i assume.

Thanks in advance

Lunie
Hi matey, have been using the 60A SL for about a year, never had any cogging issues however be aware that the power delivery can be a little brutal if you do not have a particularly gentle finger. For the money it's unbeatable except perhaps the XeRun 60A SD V2.0. Hope it helps.
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:12 AM   #747
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I am looking to buy some new batteries shortly and am unsure if to pay more for the ones with the higher C rating.

What sort of max amperage will a 9T and/or a 5.5T Ezrun motor pull?

Is it really a case of the higher the C rating the better?
Surely on a car we won't be pulling the same sort of current as say planes?
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Old 01-21-2010, 01:33 AM   #748
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Is it really a case of the higher the C rating the better?
C ratings are well into loney bin land, if you can believe the ratings
What RC car needs 250A ???? Thats well into arc welding specs

quote from Hyperion regarding their batteries C rates
"Note that NO CONNECTOR SYSTEM in use for RC Cars matches these rates, nor do RC cars draw such high continuous currents. Therefore if you intend to do CELL testing at max C rates continuously, hard case must be disassembled and appropriate cell connections made, by expert users only. RC CAR Standard connectors have ratings of 20A to about 80A continuous max depending on type, so never exceed connector ratings on continuous basis."
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Old 01-21-2010, 07:20 PM   #749
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I just got an Ezrun 35A 9T combo for my F103GT. I'm in the process of buying a TRF415MSX. Would this system work in the TRF? Or will it go up in smoke? I'll be racing this setup on asphalt this summer. Nothing big time, just fun weekly racing.
Thanks for the input.
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:43 PM   #750
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It'll work fine as long as your gearing is not too crazy.
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