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Old 10-07-2009, 01:39 AM   #646
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Originally Posted by BearPaw View Post
According to LRP it can't. I went to their site and by their specs it can handle 4-7 cell NiMh or 2 cell Lipo... Trying 3 cell lipo will probably fry it.
Just buy 2cell lipo... That's great ESC. In one of mine previous posts you can find link to cheap ($20) 2s 5000mah lipo...

Here is attached image part of specs.
Already then. Thanks for the info BearPaw. I have learned my lesson. I wont play with fire anymore. Too costly. hahaha
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Old 10-07-2009, 06:47 PM   #647
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Me 5.5T (6000kv) 60A arrived today.



I'll hang on a bit for fitting it till my Penguin RC chassis arrives.



Can't wait
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Old 10-07-2009, 07:53 PM   #648
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Originally Posted by padailey View Post
EzRun motors are not ROAR legal. If you intend to race 10.5 or 13.5 under ROAR rules you need to go with a Sensored design. The Novak Havoc systems are the inexpensive way to go. Not bashing the EzRun because for the price and quality it has its place.... just not ROAR legal racing. Also cogging is an issue with any sensorless design... racing offroad sensorless is more accepted and the cogging is more manageable. Indoors on carpet cogging is generally more noticeable. It can be minimized but I've never seen it eliminated.
I wouldn't worry about being ROAR legal, I used to be a member. They have very few races in my area, except for nitro off road there's a few. If your going to a ROAR race your gonna bring the best anyway, otherwise you'll be left in the dust.

If EZRUNS are supposed to be inferior to the sensored motors why would the other racers complain if you used it?


Now if it were an HPI or TAMIYA challenge, that's different, they have very strict rules. Also some of the local clubs will run a SPEC class, where everybody runs the exact same car, (M-03 / SC10 etc) VERY fun to watch.

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Old 10-08-2009, 02:41 AM   #649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gixer View Post
Me 5.5T (6000kv) 60A arrived today.



I'll hang on a bit for fitting it till my Penguin RC chassis arrives.



Can't wait
The wires to the capacitor are too long & too thin. I made mine alot shorter.
I'm guessing they only added the caps as everyone now expects good ecs to have one (??)
I cant imagine that cap doing much, maybe some suppression.
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Old 10-08-2009, 11:15 AM   #650
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Thanks for the advice.
Once my chassis arrives i'll see what's best in terms of layout.


Few questions please.


1/ Any advice on settings for the Esc?
The Motor/Esc will be fitted to a HPI RS4 Pro3

2/ Any advice on a good starting point for gearing?
It's currently running 35/116 (pinion/spur) with 2.25:1 trans ratio.

3/ Looking at buying a LiPo as well.
What's the advantage of a 11.1v compared to a 7.4v?




Cheers
Mark
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Old 10-14-2009, 06:54 AM   #651
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wasnt the accucel 6 cheaper than 34.99 at hobby city?

Last edited by wantboost; 10-27-2009 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 10-27-2009, 12:36 PM   #652
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Ezrun with a voltage booster?

Anyone tried it yet, just hooked mines up and the booster started to get super hot and smoke yet it was fine when it was last used with a different esc.
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Old 10-28-2009, 02:05 AM   #653
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Hi Guys,

maybe some of you know if the settings for motor rotation and cell count option 11 and 12 on the hand-held programmer can be set with the hand-held programmer ?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-question.html
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Old 10-28-2009, 02:09 AM   #654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aittam View Post
Hello,

on Hobbywing' site in the program card page i found this note:


But it sounds weird...probably it is the other way round: meaning that the items #11 and #12 are only available for the XERUN esc.

Mattia.
OK searched and answered my own question
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Old 10-28-2009, 04:35 AM   #655
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OK searched and answered my own question
so u have xerun?
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:16 AM   #656
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Nope just looking for info for someone else who asked the question.
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Old 10-31-2009, 12:32 AM   #657
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what are those connectors called on that battery? is it best to use those or deans?


Quote:
Originally Posted by BearPaw View Post
If you are asking me what C-rate on battery you should get - well depends.
I have 5000mAh with 20C (const) 30C (burst). And that's more than enough.
This battery by spec should give 100A (20 x 5A) const current and 150A (30 x 5A) burst current.

Basically you need something that should give 60A or more const current (You want more, because if you stress battery near it's limits, you are shortening it's life time).

My suggestion is:
Turnigy 5000mAh 2s Lipo 20c/30c const/burst and it's $20 + shipping you can't find better bargain... And it's not bad lipo at all.

linky:
w_w_w.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9172

Hope I have answered your question.
(const = continuous)
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Old 10-31-2009, 12:58 AM   #658
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I have the EZ-Run 60amp ESC and 17.5 turn on my sc10.

Also have the 4465sl and 150a ezrun motor and esc on my summit.

Both have been beaten over and over and they are performing flawlessly.

I juice the sc10 with 3s 4000mah 20c battery and the 4465sl with 6s batteries!!

Get em, they are bang for the buck. The program card is a must.

The only downside is the cogging at slow speeds for the summit...

Last edited by iflylow; 11-16-2009 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 10-31-2009, 02:42 AM   #659
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Quick question guys please.


When running my car when the battery level starts getting a litttle lower instead of the car going slower and slower like with the old Esc/motor it keeps starting and stopping.

It's like a new driver is giving it kangaroo juice.


I'm running NiMh and the LiPo battery level mode thing is off.


Any ideas please?
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Old 10-31-2009, 08:57 AM   #660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gixer View Post
Quick question guys please.


When running my car when the battery level starts getting a litttle lower instead of the car going slower and slower like with the old Esc/motor it keeps starting and stopping.

It's like a new driver is giving it kangaroo juice.


I'm running NiMh and the LiPo battery level mode thing is off.


Any ideas please?
Did the green lights blink when it happened? If its blinking it means the ESC is cutting off due to overheat.
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