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Old 07-21-2009, 09:57 PM   #571
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Default Different between v1 and v2

The different between v1 and v2 is v2 you are able to connect it to you PC via the LCD program box. It come with the USB cable and software necessary so you can make fine adjustment on your PC. But the old LED program box would still work with both v1 and v2.
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Old 07-21-2009, 10:16 PM   #572
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Seen 2 V2s, none had any form of USB cable, nor software.
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Old 07-21-2009, 11:54 PM   #573
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Default Purchase of the Advanced LCD Program Box REQUIRED

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Originally Posted by mcdogboy View Post
Seen 2 V2s, none had any form of USB cable, nor software.
3.11 under Features section at this link http://www.hobbywing.com/english/Art...?ArticleID=426 reads as follows:

3.11 The ESC is USB supported. The firmware of the ESC can be updated through an USB adapter on the Advanced LCD Program Box (Optional device).

Clicking on the link associated with "Advanced LCD Program Box" takes you here http://www.hobbywing.com/english/Art...?ArticleID=446

1.2 under Working Mode section reads as follows:

1.2 Working as an USB adapter to link the ESC with a PC, and the user can update the firmware of the ESC or set the ESC by the special application software on PC.
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Old 07-22-2009, 01:37 AM   #574
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Any ideas roughly what FDR to aim for in a TA-05 with a 25A esc and 12t motor running 2s lipo?
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Old 07-22-2009, 03:46 PM   #575
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You've really helped put my mind to rest, thank you.

Soon as i'm back from me Hols i'll get 1 ordered.
Think i'll bite the bullet and order 2 LiPo packs too.

Damn shame cause i've only just bought some lovely Vapextech 4600mAh NiMh's
Should have waited really.

If i use the LiPo's i'll have to set the Esc a 3v cut off as i understand it.

Other than that is there anything else that i'd have to change to run the NiMh's?
I believe i'll get longer run times out of the LiPo's, but would there be really much of a difference in speed and/or run time between 5000mAh LiPo's and 4600mAh NiMh's?



Again thanks for replying beemerfan.



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Hi Gixer

After seeing you want to use the motor in a touring car I had to share my story, I have the 10t ez run with 60 amp esc, I ran it my tt01 with with standard gearing on 11.1v and it was balistic, the motor is now in my Slash (for 3 weeks now _ to all the prophets of doom - I run an extra fan I have never had a heat issue even on 23/86 gearing) and it is insane!!!! It pops wheelies and flips at 25mph roll on!!!
I also own a 13.5 t and it is rated at 3300 kv as opposed to 3900 kv on the 10t but it is waaaaay slower than the 10t, why, I am not sure but I suspect that the trend is followed in the 8.5 t motor, so I suggest you get the 5.5t motor 6000kv I think) or look at the 9t (the 380 in a 540 can) it's got a kv of 4100, for somthing a little milder.
Knowing what I have I would buy the 9t, but I have heard that the 5.5t motor is great - check first few pages of thread.

In my Slash I set my timing and my punch on low and it is quite manageable, with max punch and timing it's insane..... Rather buy big and tone down than buy conservatively and regret.
Yes the Lipo's will be faster than nimh and is largely due to it ability to discharge at a much higher rate than nimh can. A 20c 2200 3s can deliver 44 amps constantly (20 * 2.2ah or 2200mah), a 5000mah 30c is a staggering 150amps!!! So if the motor is asking for it (read tuned motor) the batteries will deliver and the run time will go down, if the motor milder, the batteries will not be drained as quick (longer run times). They also have lower internal resistance than nimh battery packs - both speed and run time is affected positively.
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Old 07-22-2009, 04:17 PM   #576
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Thanks blanchjd for the feedback on giftshop_com30. I just ordered 2 x 17.5t kits from them.

So now I will have the 17.5t, 13t and the 9t. Just need a 5.5 to add to my collection
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Old 07-22-2009, 06:38 PM   #577
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Originally Posted by yeahbaby View Post
Yes the Lipo's will be faster than nimh and is largely due to it ability to discharge at a much higher rate than nimh can. A 20c 2200 3s can deliver 44 amps constantly (20 * 2.2ah or 2200mah), a 5000mah 30c is a staggering 150amps!!! So if the motor is asking for it (read tuned motor) the batteries will deliver and the run time will go down, if the motor milder, the batteries will not be drained as quick (longer run times). They also have lower internal resistance than nimh battery packs - both speed and run time is affected positively.
If a 5000mAh/30C battery can provide 150A continuously; can the battery be used with the 60A ESC up to the 5.5T motor?
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Old 07-22-2009, 06:40 PM   #578
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If a 5000mAh/30C battery can provide 150A continuously; can the battery be used with the 60A ESC up to the 5.5T motor?
Yes, I am using 5000mah 40C (200 Amps) on a 25A esc / 12t set up
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Old 07-22-2009, 07:18 PM   #579
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Originally Posted by nexxus View Post
Yes, I am using 5000mah 40C (200 Amps) on a 25A esc / 12t set up
Ok nothing has changed; the motor and the load put on the motor determine the amp draw and the battery will either satisfy or not.
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:29 PM   #580
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Originally Posted by yeahbaby View Post
Hi Gixer

After seeing you want to use the motor in a touring car I had to share my story, I have the 10t ez run with 60 amp esc, I ran it my tt01 with with standard gearing on 11.1v and it was balistic, the motor is now in my Slash (for 3 weeks now _ to all the prophets of doom - I run an extra fan I have never had a heat issue even on 23/86 gearing) and it is insane!!!! It pops wheelies and flips at 25mph roll on!!!
I also own a 13.5 t and it is rated at 3300 kv as opposed to 3900 kv on the 10t but it is waaaaay slower than the 10t, why, I am not sure but I suspect that the trend is followed in the 8.5 t motor, so I suggest you get the 5.5t motor 6000kv I think) or look at the 9t (the 380 in a 540 can) it's got a kv of 4100, for somthing a little milder.
Knowing what I have I would buy the 9t, but I have heard that the 5.5t motor is great - check first few pages of thread.

In my Slash I set my timing and my punch on low and it is quite manageable, with max punch and timing it's insane..... Rather buy big and tone down than buy conservatively and regret.
Yes the Lipo's will be faster than nimh and is largely due to it ability to discharge at a much higher rate than nimh can. A 20c 2200 3s can deliver 44 amps constantly (20 * 2.2ah or 2200mah), a 5000mah 30c is a staggering 150amps!!! So if the motor is asking for it (read tuned motor) the batteries will deliver and the run time will go down, if the motor milder, the batteries will not be drained as quick (longer run times). They also have lower internal resistance than nimh battery packs - both speed and run time is affected positively.

Great stuff thanks.
Few questions though please.

So the motor turns don't really mean anything then?
I should purely go off the Kv motor rating?

As is probably obvious i'm new to elec RC cars, but my understanding was the lower the number of turns the faster the motor?

If that is the case wouldn't the 5,5t be a hell of a lot faster than the 9t?
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Old 07-23-2009, 12:48 AM   #581
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Great stuff thanks.
Few questions though please.

So the motor turns don't really mean anything then?
I should purely go off the Kv motor rating?

As is probably obvious i'm new to elec RC cars, but my understanding was the lower the number of turns the faster the motor?

If that is the case wouldn't the 5,5t be a hell of a lot faster than the 9t?
In brushed motors the fewer the turns the hotter the motor, brushless is really rated on KV and not turns, I suspect that hobby wing tried to assist in conceptualizing what performance you'd get from what motor in relation to brushed. I consider the 13.5t motor about the same as my 12t oem motor in the Slash, the real difference in the two is that I can run as much volts as I like through the brushless with limits only on heat motor and esc wise and what the esc can handle.

The 9t is rated at 4100 KV (rpm per volt) and the 5.5 is 6000 KV, you might find that the 6000 kv motor is too fast for your current setup and you would have to gear down, in addition this is the hotter motor of the two and will demand more amps at any level of operation, conversely the 4100 kv might draw less amps and you get 45 minutes of run time but you maybe would rather have wanted 20 mins of pure power and speed, remember that there is also the gearing factor, @30k on 7.4v odd on the 4100 kv it might be just a drop in with no gearing change from stock, but the 6000 kv (44400prm) might require you go down on the gearing.

the 6000 kv will be impressive on 7.4v, the 4100 (9t) will be good as well, a lot faster than you're used to, and even faster on 11.1v (so would the 6000 kv)......
I guess what I am trying to say is that both these motors would be a good setup for your touring car - you just cannot go wrong either way, it's all down to your choice now

I am considering another motor for the slash and to be honest I am seriously looking at the 5.5t......

Last edited by yeahbaby; 07-23-2009 at 02:35 AM.
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Old 07-23-2009, 12:49 AM   #582
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Ok nothing has changed; the motor and the load put on the motor determine the amp draw and the battery will either satisfy or not.

Exactly that!
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Old 07-23-2009, 02:56 AM   #583
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Originally Posted by yeahbaby View Post
In brushed motors the fewer the turns the hotter the motor, brushless is really rated on KV and not turns, I suspect that hobby wing tried to assist in conceptualizing what performance you'd get from what motor in relation to brushed. I consider the 13.5t motor about the same as my 12t oem motor in the Slash, the real difference in the two is that I can run as much volts as I like through the brushless with limits only on heat motor and esc wise and what the esc can handle.

The 9t is rated at 4100 KV (rpm per volt) and the 5.5 is 6000 KV, you might find that the 6000 kv motor is too fast for your current setup and you would have to gear down, in addition this is the hotter motor of the two and will demand more amps at any level of operation, conversely the 4100 kv might draw less amps and you get 45 minutes of run time but you maybe would rather have wanted 20 mins of pure power and speed, remember that there is also the gearing factor, @30k odd on the 4100 kv it might be just a drop in with no gearing change from stock, but 6000 might require you go down on the gearing.

the 6000 kv will be impressive on 7.4v, the 4100 (9t) will be good as well, a lot faster than you're used to, and even faster on 11.1v (so would the 6000 kv)......
I guess what I am trying to say is that both these motors would be a good setup for your touring car - you just cannot go wrong either way, it's all down to your choice now

And THEN the coin drops
It all fits into place now, thanks for taking the time to explain, much appreciated.

I've made a deal with the Mrs, so no more ordering bits till after the holidays, it also gives me some time to get used to the car before upping the speed.

I do have another question though please.
I've been guided towards to 60a Esc, the theory being if i buy a bigger heavier car i can then fit a faster/more kv motor.

But will the 60a Esc run the slower motors though?


Cheers
Mark
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Old 07-23-2009, 03:33 AM   #584
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And THEN the coin drops
It all fits into place now, thanks for taking the time to explain, much appreciated.

I've made a deal with the Mrs, so no more ordering bits till after the holidays, it also gives me some time to get used to the car before upping the speed.

I do have another question though please.
I've been guided towards to 60a Esc, the theory being if i buy a bigger heavier car i can then fit a faster/more kv motor.

But will the 60a Esc run the slower motors though?


Cheers
Mark
Firstly your theroy you quote " if i buy a bigger heavier car i can then fit a faster/more kv motor." is flawed in that you buy motors with high kv for lighter cars (more revs - 1/18 cars have 8000 and 9000 kv options) and lower kv's for bigger cars (more torque rock crawlers have 1900kv option)

Having thought about it a bit I would buy the 6000kv (5.5t) for my tt01 and run it once or twice in my Slash and would not really consider the 4100 (9t) as it would marginally faster than my 10t

Yes the 60a indicates the end limits only, not start limits. There will a very slight efficiency benefit in say using a 30a on same setup than the 60a, but nothing to even consider helpful. Remember that the smallest trigger response will cause the motor to turn very slowly - the 60a esc now is acting like a 1a esc as your finger squeezes it's limits are redifined to a maximum of 60a continuous (a burst of I think 180 amp on the this particular esc), your finger determining the limit - does this make sense?
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:22 AM   #585
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Originally Posted by yeahbaby View Post
Firstly your theroy you quote " if i buy a bigger heavier car i can then fit a faster/more kv motor." is flawed in that you buy motors with high kv for lighter cars (more revs - 1/18 cars have 8000 and 9000 kv options) and lower kv's for bigger cars (more torque rock crawlers have 1900kv option)

Having thought about it a bit I would buy the 6000kv (5.5t) for my tt01 and run it once or twice in my Slash and would not really consider the 4100 (9t) as it would marginally faster than my 10t

Yes the 60a indicates the end limits only, not start limits. There will a very slight efficiency benefit in say using a 30a on same setup than the 60a, but nothing to even consider helpful. Remember that the smallest trigger response will cause the motor to turn very slowly - the 60a esc now is acting like a 1a esc as your finger squeezes it's limits are redifined to a maximum of 60a continuous (a burst of I think 180 amp on the this particular esc), your finger determining the limit - does this make sense?
The last bit makes perfect sense.
You'd get a slightly finer control on a 30a Esc than a 60a Esc, but it seems like the difference is less than most of us can actually notice.


I really don't understand the kv requirements though.
To be honest i think the mods have been patient with me so far for hi-jacking this thread though so i really don't want to push me luck as a noob.

So if anyone has any links i'll happily read away.
If not i do have 1 more question please.

I've read up on BLDC motors, i understand how the differ from brushed motor and i understand how they work.
I also understand that rock crawlers will be geared for better torque and less speed.

But if say i went say brushless in my nitro firestorm then surely it would need a motor with more current draw than a motor in my pro3, if the top speed target was the same?

Wouldn't classing motors in a power/speed context be more accurate say 4600kv at 16k rpm?


I'm really enjoying learning all this, so if my enthusiasm is getting the best of me please just direct me towards some good faq pages and i'll lap em up.



Cheers
Mark
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