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Old 07-01-2009, 09:38 PM   #541
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hey aittim, mine does the same thing, i think that its for the higher models maybe, like the 80 and 120 amps because im sure they use the same programming card.
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Old 07-02-2009, 06:01 AM   #542
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Originally Posted by Fast XXXS View Post
Ok cool thanks, just what i wanted to hear. So are you running a 35A speedy?
35a speedy + Sensorless Losi 4800kv motor + Ip lipo = Ballistic. Cheap as Feck to set up as well. Cheers Benzaah
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Old 07-02-2009, 01:33 PM   #543
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Hello,

on Hobbywing' site in the program card page i found this note:
Quote:
(Note: The item #11 and #12 are not available for XERUN series ESC of Version 2, they only available for EZRUN series ESC)
But it sounds weird...probably it is the other way round: meaning that the items #11 and #12 are only available for the XERUN esc.

Mattia.
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Old 07-02-2009, 04:09 PM   #544
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Does anyone know if i can run a 60amp 8.5 EZrun in my cat2000?
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Old 07-03-2009, 02:29 AM   #545
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Originally Posted by JATOdriver View Post
try reseting the neutral position on your Tx mine did the same on my off road truck and i looked at my Tx and the neutral position was set wrong and the esc wast pickiing up neutral or reverse
if i set the trim on my tx in the neutral position the red light of the esc is on. when i put the trim a bit forward the red light is off and the dragbrake is gone (possibly because the esc sees just a little bit throttle signal) but the reverse still doesn't work and it is cogging quite a bit in the startup
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Old 07-03-2009, 05:24 AM   #546
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Such a long thread! Let me add to the noise.

Me and 2 mates bought the 35A 9t kits. Got them for $125 delivered from r2hobbies in hong kong.

We've been running them for about 2 months now in various cars and they seem pretty solid. We are all new to brushless BTW and haven't tried anything else.

Mine was in an Evader ST for a few races and some park bashing. It was unbelievably fast... till it chewed the diff... and then another one...

so while waiting for parts I've put it in my TT01, standard gearing, it went like a rocket, crazy fast. So fast that I smashed into a gutter in the street and broke the car.

so I put it in my TL01 road car/ school yard thrasher, it was amazing! I literately drifted around the school on rubber road tyres and happily shredded them over about 6 sessions. The last session i was going hard for about 20 mins and I seem to have melted the spur gear, the motor got super hot.

while waiting for an aluminum spur gear for my TL01 road car, I've put the ezrun in my TL01B Baja Champ 4WD buggy. omg, it's amazing! so fast and smooth. Can't wait to take it to the track!

My mates are running theirs in a DF02 and a B44, both having no problems at all and running quick. Apparently guys at the Knox track have commented on the B44 running nice and being surprised that it's got an ezrun in it.

Problems I've had: the fan blade fell off so I had to replace the fan unit. My motor cogs a lot at very low speeds, the DF02 one does too, but for some reason the B44 doesn't.

I also just got a 35A 13t kit from Hobby Man for $150. Early impression is it's not quite as fast at the top end but seems 'smoother'. Ran it in my TL01 road car at Boronia onroad and it was quite manageable.

So far so good. I'm going to put these in all my cars permanently! Probably stick to the 9t though, why would you want to go slower?
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Old 07-06-2009, 12:44 AM   #547
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Default no reverse...

having a similar problem as some i have read on here, but i cannot find any answers. i am running an ezrun 60A(sensorless) esc with a novak 5800 sensored motor in my TT01, it runs great, bit of take off cogging, but i am under the impression that it is pretty standard. the problem is that i cannot get it to reverse. i don't have the set up card, i have tried reseting everything, multiple time to no avail, i even tried re-soldering the leads and even switching them(but it just made the motor run backwards.) the fan also quit on me so i had to replace it with an oversized computer fan till the yea racing tornado shows up. i'm using it for bashing and racing with my friends, and the no reverse thing is bothering me. any ideas anyone? thanks for your time!
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eZRUN brushless system-img_6783.jpg   eZRUN brushless system-img_6778.jpg  
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Old 07-06-2009, 07:50 AM   #548
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just an FYI from my earlier post, i DOUBLED the length of the motor wires and it runs sweet as
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Old 07-06-2009, 11:42 AM   #549
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Originally Posted by cydog510 View Post
having a similar problem as some i have read on here, but i cannot find any answers. i am running an ezrun 60A(sensorless) esc with a novak 5800 sensored motor in my TT01, it runs great, bit of take off cogging, but i am under the impression that it is pretty standard. the problem is that i cannot get it to reverse. i don't have the set up card, i have tried reseting everything, multiple time to no avail, i even tried re-soldering the leads and even switching them(but it just made the motor run backwards.) the fan also quit on me so i had to replace it with an oversized computer fan till the yea racing tornado shows up. i'm using it for bashing and racing with my friends, and the no reverse thing is bothering me. any ideas anyone? thanks for your time!
you probably need a programming card. No sweat, they're about $10 on ebay.
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Old 07-06-2009, 01:06 PM   #550
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Originally Posted by cydog510 View Post
having a similar problem as some i have read on here, but i cannot find any answers. i am running an ezrun 60A(sensorless) esc with a novak 5800 sensored motor in my TT01, it runs great, bit of take off cogging, but i am under the impression that it is pretty standard. the problem is that i cannot get it to reverse. i don't have the set up card, i have tried reseting everything, multiple time to no avail, i even tried re-soldering the leads and even switching them(but it just made the motor run backwards.) the fan also quit on me so i had to replace it with an oversized computer fan till the yea racing tornado shows up. i'm using it for bashing and racing with my friends, and the no reverse thing is bothering me. any ideas anyone? thanks for your time!
You don't need a prgramming card. It can all be done with the button. All you need is the instruction sheet.
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Old 07-06-2009, 01:23 PM   #551
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i have a program card en-route. but i agree w/ gary, it can all be done with the button (just heaps easier using the card!) but i have tried almost EVERY combo that i would think could affect the reverse mode, even messing with the neutral position setting. also, does adjusting the timing affect the performance of a sensored motor, or is it just for sensorless? thanks.

Last edited by cydog510; 07-06-2009 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 07-09-2009, 08:19 AM   #552
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Smile EZRUN combo on TL01 and TL01B chassis

Hello,

Haven't seen such a long thread for a long time. Didn't want to be rude to ask a question before reading it (whole).

I have Tamiya TL-01 4wd on-road and TL-01B 4wd buggy and want make them brushless.
I will order one combo to fit both (limited with money)

I am planning to buy either 35a & 9t or 35a & 13t.

Are these chassis up to that power (stock configured)?
Is it too much for 35a ESC? Saw some people driving these set-ups.

Will 35a & 9t be able to drive buggy without overheating?

I am quite a newbie.

Thanks.
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Old 07-09-2009, 10:19 AM   #553
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Originally Posted by BearPaw View Post
Hello,

Haven't seen such a long thread for a long time. Didn't want to be rude to ask a question before reading it (whole).

I have Tamiya TL-01 4wd on-road and TL-01B 4wd buggy and want make them brushless.
I will order one combo to fit both (limited with money)

I am planning to buy either 35a & 9t or 35a & 13t.

Are these chassis up to that power (stock configured)?
Is it too much for 35a ESC? Saw some people driving these set-ups.

Will 35a & 9t be able to drive buggy without overheating?


I am quite a newbie.

Thanks.
If you are using the correct FDR (gearing), you wont overheat the esc or the motor. I have the 60A with 5.5t in my Kyosho lazer ZX5 so far no overheating, it is damn fast for a cheap combo.
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Old 07-10-2009, 06:18 AM   #554
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Thanks for quick reply.

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Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
If you are using the correct FDR (gearing), you wont overheat the esc or the motor.
I don't know much about gearing & correct FDR, it's factory default.
I haven't opened transmission so far. I presume that these factory settings are pretty much conservative (Ain't they?).

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I have the 60A with 5.5t in my Kyosho lazer ZX5 so far no overheating, it is damn fast for a cheap combo.
Yeah, it's 60a after all...

So, you think that 35A & 9T will be able to cope with factory default gearing of 1/10 scale 4wd buggy (TL-01B chassis) ?

btw I will use 5000mah turnigy lipos (great value for the money)
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Old 07-10-2009, 06:19 AM   #555
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Hey PearPaw

I've found that the 13t is actually a bit slow, it's been in both the tl01 and tl01b. It's good for small tracks and the school but you don't get 'crazy' speed from it.

So far I've only chewed up the one spur gear, it was from the Speed Tuned gear set, so I'm back to the standard spur and have some aluminum ones ready to go in. The 13t was faster with the speed tuned but I figure if they are going to strip I'll go back to standard. Maybe that's why it feels too slow?

Keeping in mind that I was running flat out grip drifting for about 15 mins! The whole concept of only being able to run motors for short periods of time and having to wait for them to cool just seems wrong to me, why don't they make them to work at maximum? I've got a Currie electric scooter and it runs full power 100 percent of the time, why is it toy cars don't?

I really want to get the 60a true 540 size 5t. It's about $130 on ebay and would probably be quite sick!

In terms of over heating, I don't really know what that means, when I stripped the gear I touched the motor and nearly burnt my finger! Also the motor, when out of the car and running made the most horrible sound like there was a bit of metal bouncing around in it. So I put it back in and, not very scientifically, ran the sh#t out of it - and it seems fine

The main problem I've been having with the TLs with so much power - the dog bones. They basically destroy themselves especially at the rear wheels. I've upgraded both to universals which has now caused another problem, the pins keep falling out. The little lug nut that holds the middle pin in comes loose and the pin falls out, fixed this buy putting thread lock on and it holds, but not forever. The top pins fall out and get lost, I was told to use axel pins and bend them slightly and push them in, but they fall out again. I've ended up removing the end pins from the original dog bones, they have a groove in the center, I bash them in with a hammer (so subtle) and they seem to stay.

So other than the unis the chassis are handling the power really well. Both have oil shocks and bearing too.

Also getting a few breakages on the shock towers which unfortunately is the chassis. Only a 20 buck part but a pain to replace. Broke the knuckles on the the buggy. Have put titanium tie rods on to create a point of weakness, working so far.

Good luck! Go the TL01 !! haha
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