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Old 09-03-2003, 12:19 PM   #31
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For 2. i use an old pack of 4 cells and run those for about 4 minutes.
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Old 09-03-2003, 07:26 PM   #32
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Default ATLAS MOTOR

Hi.. anybody tried the Team Atlas stock motor??

I am talking about the 23T Solid Purple....

Is it good?? Is it fast??
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Old 09-03-2003, 09:39 PM   #33
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Quote:
How long should you break in brushes for the following situations?
i use the first heat!

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That seems pretty dam high, I gear my monsters about 7.2 and they seem to like it.
have fun doing that with Assassin! You will have to mill a lot of the motor plate, and that would make the rear end very weak. Stick with 1-2mm of the motor plate and yo can get down to around 6.8 and you'll have no probs or just run 2 belts. I have heard of it getting to 8.0, but wouldn't try it.
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Old 09-03-2003, 10:17 PM   #34
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Sydewynder - Ooops, I ment Rpm...
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Old 09-03-2003, 10:44 PM   #35
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I have heard that having a bit more spring tension on the Pos sde of youre motor will give you a little more torgue...anyone know or heard of this?
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Old 09-04-2003, 12:55 AM   #36
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Originally posted by MarlboroRally
I have heard that having a bit more spring tension on the Pos sde of youre motor will give you a little more torgue...anyone know or heard of this?
Yeah, I think thats called " polorized " spings and brushes from Trinity. Or is it the other way around for the positice or negative side ?
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Old 09-04-2003, 01:04 AM   #37
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Originally posted by Roger
Yeah, I think thats called " polorized " spings and brushes from Trinity. Or is it the other way around for the positice or negative side ?
It's the positive side. Red on +, Green on - for Trinity.
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Old 09-04-2003, 01:48 PM   #38
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Default polorized springs

MarlboroRally;

The lighter spring goes on the Negative side and this is done for more RPM. Most of the "Tuned" Stock Motors come with a + Red, - Green setup.

For more torque (like in a TC) a Red/Red spring combo works best in "Epic" Motors.
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Old 09-07-2003, 01:03 AM   #39
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Default Re: heat?

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Originally posted by audiaudi
Have you guys check the temprature of the motor after run?
Stock motor can reach arround 74~76 degree celcius, but it is normal..
Yokomo guys said it is still ok until it reach 86 degree celcius, if over 86 degrees, it is overgearing...
I check the motor after each run with an infrared temp check, shaft drive car usually have a motor surface temp arround 74~76 degrees, and belt drive car usually 69~71 degrees.
Any input?? (23T stock... see if any different with the 27T)
I checked my temp today after a full run, my Mvp was at 183F = 83.88C.
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Old 09-15-2003, 09:49 AM   #40
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I have a quick question. I checked my motor on my GFX, ran it at 3 Volts and got about 10 Amps. I then rebuilt it and cut the comm, checked it again and only got 9 Amps. I didn't replace the brushed, just cleaned them with a comm stick.

Is it normal to get less Amps after cutting the comm? I just got a comm lathe and wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong.
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Old 09-15-2003, 10:34 AM   #41
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When you cut the com you changed the diameter of the com. Give the brushes time to reseat themselves and the amp draw should come back.
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Old 09-15-2003, 11:10 AM   #42
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Thanks, that's what I wanted to know.
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