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Old 07-31-2008, 03:35 PM   #1
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Default help mounting body on rc12r5

i have a Parma speed8 HD body and i cut out the bottom edge of the body and then marked the center of the posts to cut holes. well i then proceeded to ream the holes unevenly. the body sits too far back on the car and and the front hits the upper arms and i cant get the body low enough.

is the bottom of the body supposed to be level with the bottom of the chassis or maybe lower? does anyone else have problems with this body on the rc12r5? i am running the front upper arms in their most level setting. how do you mount the body? any tips or tricks?
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Old 07-31-2008, 03:43 PM   #2
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Bodies these days are made to fit as low as possible on the cars. In order to fit right you will have to angle the front arms to at least the middle setting. Also I don't normally trim the body sides until the last thing that way I can be sure that they aren't too high. Putting the new bodies on 1/12th cars require care and precision so take your time and be sure it's right before you cut or make any holes.
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Old 07-31-2008, 04:01 PM   #3
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i might by another one. i need to remember to put the car up on a block or something to get it off the counter. i need to rewire my motor. i put the wires on the very tip of the motor tab (novak 17.5) and the body touches it just barely. well live and learn. i would still like to know what other techniques people use to mark and mount bodies.
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Old 07-31-2008, 04:15 PM   #4
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i might by another one. i need to remember to put the car up on a block or something to get it off the counter. i need to rewire my motor. i put the wires on the very tip of the motor tab (novak 17.5) and the body touches it just barely. well live and learn. i would still like to know what other techniques people use to mark and mount bodies.
Here is one tip I'll give you.

Once you do get a body mounted perfectly, when you are through using that body and it is no longer serviceable, cut all of the body away except for the area around the front and rear body holes. What you end up with is just the very top of the body left. Then, when you want to mount the new body, place it over the top of the new body and mark the holes! You now have the holes perfectly marked on the new body.
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Old 07-31-2008, 04:29 PM   #5
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Here is one tip I'll give you.

Once you do get a body mounted perfectly, when you are through using that body and it is no longer serviceable, cut all of the body away except for the area around the front and rear body holes. What you end up with is just the very top of the body left. Then, when you want to mount the new body, place it over the top of the new body and mark the holes! You now have the holes perfectly marked on the new body.
+1

1/12th scale ALWAYS has been pretty tough for body mounting, but since there are so few body types that actually work what most guys have done once they've found the sweetspot is use their old bodies as templates before tossing them .... or as Crashby noted, "cut out the pertinent areas and save them for future reference"

Last edited by rocket-mtrsprts; 07-31-2008 at 04:42 PM.
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Old 07-31-2008, 04:51 PM   #6
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i figured as much.

anybody remember how to measure and mark the center of a wheel well, while it is uncut so that you can align it with the axles?
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Old 07-31-2008, 04:57 PM   #7
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The best way is to cut the mounting holes before you paint that way you can set the body on the car and get it exactly where you want while you can see through it. Also another tip for cutting the sides only trim enough so that with the body on the car and the car race ready(batts everything on the chassie) the bottom of the body is almost flush with your setup board. Now take a fine sharpe and lay it on the board and go around the sides/front of the body. you now have a perfectly flat/even line for cutting., this works for any body or car.
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Old 07-31-2008, 05:41 PM   #8
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so what is a good ground clearance for the body? 1mm, 2mm, 5mm?
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Old 07-31-2008, 08:44 PM   #9
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so what is a good ground clearance for the body? 1mm, 2mm, 5mm?
Trim the shell all around the car so that the chassis just settles on your pit board (all 4 wheels have full chassis weight) but the body is still too low. Next take a sharpie, remove the cap, laying the pen flat against the pit board, draw a horizontal line all around the shell the height of the nib all around the shell. Trim that line off the shell. I find that to be the magic height, and it is a consistent height all around the shell.
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Old 08-01-2008, 10:27 AM   #10
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i measured the height that you would get with a sharpie and FYI its 6mm. thats actually higher than the bottom of my chassis which is about 5mm, but i guess that what i have to run since thats the only way i can keep the body from hitting the front upper arms or the front wheels from looking like they would hit the body when they are turned. whatever. as long as its runs right, i guess.
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Old 08-01-2008, 11:49 AM   #11
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That's why most 12th scale racers don't follow that "tip" to the letter - as you'll want the body below (and not above) the bottom edge of the chassis plate, as well as mounting the body high enough so it does not rub the tires.
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