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Old 08-27-2003, 10:18 PM   #16
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Thanks for the information Troy.

What I want to do is compare two motors, however it seems that it won't be easy to do on a GFX, afterall BalakRacing.com referred to the Turbo 35 motor mode as a "poormans dyno." Do you think it is worth investing in a Yokomo MMS since I already own a GFX?
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Old 08-27-2003, 10:22 PM   #17
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Accord, Yokomo makes a nice motor checker but I would save the money if you can afford it and get the CS dyno, I think it's a nice dyno for $350 and it uses the same technology as the robi except the motor mounts vertically but I really don't see that much of a drawback on that. Oh that dyno can be linked to a laptop.
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Old 08-27-2003, 10:23 PM   #18
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Heck, you're from Florida, you know what I'm talking about, Schumacher valley.
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Old 08-27-2003, 10:27 PM   #19
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Default GFX verses Dyno

There are many people out there that use the Turbos to check the motors (me included)...not sure if it is worth it or not. According to many people this serves absolutely no purpose. I know I have read that Big Jim says it is worthless....take that for what its worth. I definately think that a dyno along with track testing is the best way but Dynos are expensive!. I have a Robi and It is pretty nice...my buddy has the CS and they are very similar but the Robi is much easier to use I think. just solder the motor on and put on the sensor disk. The CS has to be unscrewed....a little bit of a pain. just my .02
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Old 08-27-2003, 10:36 PM   #20
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I don't think you can say it serves no purpose. If you know what that particular motor should draw with that brush, then you can tell if it's going to perform on the track, to a certain extent.

For example, About two weeks ago, I had just skimmed the comm and used the same brushes, which only had one run on them. When I ran it on the T-35, it was only drawing 8 amps. This motor normally draws high 10's, and low 11amps. The brushes had glazed over. After replacing the brushes, I was much closer to my normal amp draw.
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Old 08-27-2003, 10:39 PM   #21
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Default "serves no purpose"

THat was not my quote.....I do check my motors real quick just for the things that you mentioned....it does not however replace a dyno by any stretch of the imagination. AND of course the dyno does not replace being on the track!
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Old 08-28-2003, 07:02 AM   #22
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Default Re: "serves no purpose"

Quote:
Originally posted by Joneser
THat was not my quote.....I do check my motors real quick just for the things that you mentioned....it does not however replace a dyno by any stretch of the imagination. AND of course the dyno does not replace being on the track!
I didn't quote you.

You mentioned some people don't think it serves a purpose, so I just added my two cents on the issue.
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Old 08-29-2003, 07:48 AM   #23
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Does the gfx have the ability to power a comm lathe? I don't see that feature and I thought it could. Maybe i'm thinking about the LRP and the integy 16x9.
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Old 08-29-2003, 07:53 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by Devin
Does the gfx have the ability to power a comm lathe? I don't see that feature and I thought it could. Maybe i'm thinking about the LRP and the integy 16x9.
Yes, it can power a comm lathe. I use my GFX all the time to power my Fantom Lathe. Simply hook up the two alligator clips to the slave motor on the lathe, switch it into motor mode, lower the output voltage to around 2.8v so it's nice and smooth, and voila!
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Old 08-29-2003, 08:07 AM   #25
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Awesome...I was getting stick of dying 4 cell packs powering my Hudy and screwing up the cut. I can't wait to try the GFX out tonight. The menus look packed and a little complicated but im sure i'll get used to it. One thing I didn't see is a running time that it took to charge a pack. I know it outputs seconds, is that run time seconds or charge time in seconds. If the latter, than you can devide by 60 to find out how many min/seconds it took.
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Old 08-29-2003, 03:56 PM   #26
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I have borrowed a friends Turbo 35 BL charger, it's five years old.
What rate should I charge the NICD's (2400 mostly) and the 3000 and 3300 NIMH's at?

Thanks
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Old 08-29-2003, 05:29 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by Devin
Awesome...I was getting stick of dying 4 cell packs powering my Hudy and screwing up the cut. I can't wait to try the GFX out tonight. The menus look packed and a little complicated but im sure i'll get used to it. One thing I didn't see is a running time that it took to charge a pack. I know it outputs seconds, is that run time seconds or charge time in seconds. If the latter, than you can devide by 60 to find out how many min/seconds it took.
The Secs. is how long it took to charge the battery.
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Old 09-05-2003, 07:15 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nova F1 Racer
I have borrowed a friends Turbo 35 BL charger, it's five years old.
What rate should I charge the NICD's (2400 mostly) and the 3000 and 3300 NIMH's at?

Thanks
I charge both at 6 amps.

For NiCDs - Turboflex on, setting = 7, peak voltage = 0.7 volts
For NimHs - Turboflex off, peak voltage = 0.03 or 0.04 volts

Repeak if desired.

Bryan
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Old 09-05-2003, 07:46 AM   #29
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Bryan, what charging settings do you recommend for a 4-cell GP3300mah pack that will be used in 8 minute races for 12 scale?

Also for discharging a 4 cell pack, what should the voltage cutoff be set at? On 6 cellsl it's 5.4 volts, but i'm not sure about 4 cells.

Thanks
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Old 09-05-2003, 07:49 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by Accord
Bryan, what charging settings do you recommend for a 4-cell GP3300mah pack that will be used in 8 minute races for 12 scale?

Also for discharging a 4 cell pack, what should the voltage cutoff be set at? On 6 cellsl it's 5.4 volts, but i'm not sure about 4 cells.

Thanks
For an 8 min race, bring the charge rate down to 5 amps to get higher capacity. Discharge cutoff for 4 cell pack is 3.6 volts.

Bryan
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