cyclone speed

Hi i would like to know what kind of tweak station do most of people use .
I dont have any but i dont want to spend alot of money on them (max 30 dollar , 20 british pound) .
Or if any of you just build your own tweak station even if its not very precise it doesnt matter thanks for helping me out.

sosidge

Just lift the car at the centre and see which wheel comes down first.

I did write something on my old website about the way to do it. It makes a big difference, the car will run straight and turn in a more balanced way if the tweak is right.

http://www.sosidge.pwp.blueyonder.co...ex-page47.html

bs6ef

cyclone speed you got a pm

Luke Hobson

Hudy tweek station is very good. Although it is a bit pricey, you get what you pay for i think.

you can also get the MIP or Integy bubble tweek stations too they are cheaper but work via a bubble

luke

intimidator

Wouldnt a single digital scale work for tweak if you just moved the car round and checked weight on each tire?

mattnin

iTrader: (44)

The best tweak station can be made yourself. Here is one I made for my 1/10 scale offroad. It wasn't too difficult to make either. The board can be leveled using the adjustable feet, I covered it with contact paper, etc...

shadowless

there is a product call intergy setup station. check that out.

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

anyone notice the 30 dollar price tag he mentioned???

dvaid852456

I have been using the method whereby you lift the centre of the chassis at the front to see which wheel lifts off the ground first then adjusting the rear shock collars to get both wheels lifting at the same time. Then doing the same for the front shock preload.

I have been thinking of splashing out on the Hudy Tweak station but I wondered if anyone knows if the wheel method is accurate enough or will the tweak station be more accurate? Is there any point buying the tweak station?

trilerian

iTrader: (51)

I would highly recommend that if you are setting spring tweak using the method where you lift one end of the car, use setup wheels. Tires can be uneven and produce inaccurate measurements. Also, I recommend something to test for chassis tweak as well, droop blocks work well for this. So basically, setup wheels and droop blocks are what you need, these should already be a part of your setup tools, but if not...

dvaid852456

Yep, I use droop blocks and setup wheels.but wondered if anyone knew which method was more accurate and if it was better to use a tweak station.

trilerian

iTrader: (51)

The tweak stations will be more precise so long as you get the car on them even. But setup wheels and lifting the car get the job done well enough. Where the tweak stations are really useful is they don't require the lifting of the car so incorrect droop doesnt effect the reading. But you could be masking a problem.

dvaid852456

Do you mean incorrect droop or incorrect downstops?
I don't measure actual droop, I just rely on the downstop settings. I agree if the downstops are not 100% accurate then the wheels could lift at different times but I always try to set downstops as accurate as possible.

So one advantage of the tweak station is that it will remove downstops from the equation when setting spring pre-load. I guess belt and braces would be to check on the tweak station and the wheel lift method after to confirm spring preload and double check downstop settings.

My current setup order is:

Ride height with race wheels on
Downstop settings with wheels off
Camber
Toe
Chassis tweak on droop blocks
Spring preload/tweak with setup wheels and the lifting method

Maybe an improved order would be:

Ride height with race wheels on
Downstop settings with wheels off
Camber
Toe
Chassis tweak on droop blocks
Tweak station
Spring preload/tweak with setup wheels and the lifting method
Double check downstops with wheels off.

trilerian

iTrader: (51)

I generally like to start with a flat chassis. My order for setup:

1. Place chassis on flat setup board or glass and verify that the chassis is flat. If the chassis is not flat I unscrew all the stress points and tighten them down in a “tweak free” rotation. Unfortunately, you may need to experiment a bit yourself to figure out that rotation.

2. Set initial down stop settings.

3. Put setup wheels on and set initial ride height. I use 62mm setup wheels so it is generally close to actual ride height.

4. Put in setup station to set toe, camber, caster (some cars), and end points.

5. Put setup wheels back on car and adjust down stop for specific droop settings. i.e. droop over ride height.

6. Spring tweak with setup wheels on the car. But I don’t only look for wheel lift at the same time, I look at the opposite end of the car while lifting the chassis and look to see if the other end is balanced while compressing.

7. Back to no wheels on the car and on droop blocks to verify the chassis is tweak free.

8. Put race tires on the car and set ride height. Be sure to increase preload by even amounts on shocks, otherwise you can mess up the spring tweak.

9. Verify droop over ride height, camber, and toe.



I forgot to add in the setup tools, thumbscrews are your friend.