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Old 08-19-2003, 06:38 PM   #1
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Default Problem building my new GP3300's...

I've built a countless number of packs over the years and have never experienced this problem until now. For some reason, the solder refuses to stick to the negative side of the GP3300 cells, i've tried flux and everything and it still won't stick, however it sticks perfectly fine to the positive end of the cells.

What is the reason for this, and what can I do?

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Old 08-19-2003, 06:45 PM   #2
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Make sure to sand or scuff the cell first (I do both ends first).
The solder needs something to 'cling' to.
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Old 08-19-2003, 06:47 PM   #3
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Yup, tried that, didn't work .
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Old 08-19-2003, 07:09 PM   #4
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Hmmm, just figured out the problem, the knob of my Hakko soldering iron was loose so it was not hot enough. I just CA'ed the knob on so it is on the proper temperature setting.
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Old 08-19-2003, 07:56 PM   #5
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Whew! Though maybe your flux capacitator and got up and quit capacitating! hehe!!!
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Old 08-19-2003, 10:17 PM   #6
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i had the same problem when soldering cells, its much easier on the positive side but solder seems to roll off the negative side. i recently switched to a 60w iron (from 40w) and no more soldering problems my old 40w iron was hot enough to melt the solder but not good enough to finish the job on the cells.
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Old 08-19-2003, 10:33 PM   #7
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Default Negative problems

Guys;

I've noticed the same problem on NiMh cells, with it taking a much hotter Iron on the negative side of the cell.

Just make sure the tip is clean and HOT and use something (Alcohol or Motor Spray) to remove any residue on the cell ends before soldering.

NiCd's however, don't seem to have this problem.
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Old 08-20-2003, 04:39 AM   #8
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I recognize your problems, have had the same problems myself, i used a 80w soldering iron.. will try sanding the negative pole on my new gp cells
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Old 08-20-2003, 02:03 PM   #9
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I'm still having problems as well! Right now my setup seems really really hack, but it seems to hold for now...
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Old 08-20-2003, 03:51 PM   #10
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i think its simply a matter of surface area.

On the pos. side you have a smaller contact patch and it heats up more centralized and so the solder flows faster. With the negative side the surface area is larger and the heat spreads making for a larger warm spot rather then a smaller hot spot. Up the watts will help. I too notice that negative sides take longer to solder...

Try to heat get solder to flow on 10guage wire is harder then 18guage. Why? surface area.
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Old 08-20-2003, 04:25 PM   #11
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I agree Joel. I use an 80 watt iron with a big fat tip for soldering my cells together. Helps heat the area more quickly.
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Old 08-20-2003, 10:07 PM   #12
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I've got a 60 watt Hakko soldering iron, it works great but the tip I have on it is really narrow... I think that is most of the problem. I hard wire my batteries and I find myself struggling at times just holding the tip of the soldering iron on the wire to get it hot enough to melt the solder and bond together. Think a larger tip would solve all my problems?
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Old 08-20-2003, 10:31 PM   #13
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Old 08-20-2003, 11:05 PM   #14
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Default Hakko soldering iron

Accord;

Make sure that the INNER Core (a metal sleeve) has not seperated from the tip.

This will definately cause heating problems and the tip will have to be replaced.
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Old 08-20-2003, 11:06 PM   #15
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Does anyone know where I can purchase different tips for my Hakko 936 soldering iron online?

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