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Old 07-07-2008, 01:48 PM   #1
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Default 1/10 touring on asphalt

So far in this summer we`ve had 4 races and i always seem to have some problems i`ve never made it to finals because I have technical difficulties on carpet in winter my car was running like crap, but there ware no problems now it seems to brake everywhere, but all parts that brake are Alu so i make spares myself. Can someone give a tip how to not kill a car i`ve been r/c racing for 3 years and even someone who`s 1 year is beating me.
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Old 07-07-2008, 01:50 PM   #2
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1. Get rid of the bling. Aluminum breaks parts.
2. Slow down and stop hitting the walls.
3. What kind of car are you running? What parts are you breaking?

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Old 07-07-2008, 02:12 PM   #3
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So far in this summer we`ve had 4 races and i always seem to have some problems i`ve never made it to finals because I have technical difficulties on carpet in winter my car was running like crap, but there ware no problems now it seems to brake everywhere, but all parts that brake are Alu so i make spares myself. Can someone give a tip how to not kill a car i`ve been r/c racing for 3 years and even someone who`s 1 year is beating me.
Find a driver that knows the ropes and see if they don't mind being a mentor. Theories that you think you understand are sometimes deeper than what you comprehend. Take time to learn why these drivers are driving the line around the track that they do. Don't drive the car to 110% of it's capacity. Drive at 90% of your maximum ability and the rest will follow with practice. Practice doesn't make perfect, perfect practice makes perfect - Vince Lombardi.
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Old 07-07-2008, 03:36 PM   #4
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Ok car has no bling only parts and equipment needed for running 5 cells min allowed weight is 1400g i run at 1398 cuz i lost oil from daper.

Im running xray t1evo2 it`s good, plastic is really good and flexible on that car i broke servo saver in stupid way just made test run around the track with no body on and hit the barrier not even fast running or anything. The last car schumacher axis 2 was indestructable (had to put it away because rear belt was slowly dying and then broken, replacment was too expensive so i got evo2) i made duraluminum front bumper holder(underside) car one run at max speed flyed into wood barrier only thing was the barrier in half and car nailed in it but 40 sec later it was still running when pulled off from wooden barrier.

Any suggestions how to go into tight corner with no understeer with solid oneway in front?
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Old 07-07-2008, 06:05 PM   #5
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be smooth and let it roll in, even let off earlier for that tight turn and roll through it.
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Old 07-07-2008, 06:13 PM   #6
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Any suggestions how to go into tight corner with no understeer with solid oneway in front?[/QUOTE]

i am new to asphalt as well and the best way i can figure to get through tight corners is to slow down.
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Old 07-08-2008, 03:13 AM   #7
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Any suggestions how to go into tight corner with no understeer with solid oneway in front?

i am new to asphalt as well and the best way i can figure to get through tight corners is to slow down.
Food for thought..

- Lighter suspension/stabilisers allows weight to shift around more
- Stiffer stabilisers would increase steering response
- More rear droop (allows the weight to go forward giving more front traction/steering under braking/decelleration)
- More toe out on front

And the one I recently found.. changing the body.

I thought my car needed more turning in the tighter corners and overlooked the body as a tuning option.
I switched from a Stratus to a Mazda 6 and my problem was solved.

That being said, I think you nailed it in your question - slowing down is a very good beginning step

-Mark
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Old 07-08-2008, 04:13 AM   #8
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Watch the A main and their qualifying. Watch their racing line. Lap after lap, they are pretty much using the same space.

Your car might be oversteering, as a result you're turning in too early. Lightweight parts may make the car lighter, but they may be more prone to breaking when you tap a board.

The first time I used a spool on carpet I was really suprised how much more steering the car had. I was turning in way too early and had to quickly adjust my driving style.

Applying too much power and steering at the same time can really unsettle the car, try to be as smooth as possible on both counts.

If you're running a brushed motor it pays to strip it down and clean it at least once a meeting. This should stop any sticky brush situation. if you can, get it skimmed frequently too. The more you look after the motor, the less hassle it will give you. I will check my car over after every race.

On a good day, I can get my lap consistancy of an average lap and my fastest lap to 0.5 of a second. Doing one or two fast laps is OK, but they are of no use if the other 25+ are slow because you're crashing.

Slow yourself, or the car (or both) down, work on the lap consistancy then slowly bring the power back up again. Having a slower car makes you focus more on where you are positioning the car each corner.

It also allows you to have slower reaction times to help the process along better To finish first, first you have to finish

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Old 07-08-2008, 04:33 AM   #9
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Thanks for advice.

Now my problem is the speed on the staight. Running novak 13.5ss on 5cells need to get my fdr lower because motor is really cool after run. Right now it`s exactly 5.00 on 80t spur and 34t pinion soon 75t spur will arrive then i will see how it works.
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Old 07-08-2008, 07:29 AM   #10
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Thanks for advice.

Now my problem is the speed on the staight. Running novak 13.5ss on 5cells need to get my fdr lower because motor is really cool after run. Right now it`s exactly 5.00 on 80t spur and 34t pinion soon 75t spur will arrive then i will see how it works.
Novak recommends a FDR of 4.5 to start on that motor so you are not close to that at all. I honestly don't understand the 5 cell packs with a 13.5. 5 cell is a mod thing and you are running a stock class motor. If the motor is cool after a run you are not pushing it at all.
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Old 07-08-2008, 07:52 AM   #11
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5 cells are in the rules and all baltic states use this combination, i have no use for 6 cells because it`s not allowed to race here with them. So the lowest ratio i can make is 4.69 when my 75t spur arrives. At least some improvement. After 5 min. run motor is 55C can touch it with no problems, novak says that normal should be 71C-80C
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Old 07-08-2008, 08:24 AM   #12
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I don't know the size or layout of your track which is vital when offering gear ratio advise, but when running 5 cell, the general rule of thumb is to start by gearing it 20% lower than 6 cell. So, for example, if a 13.5 with 6 cell should be geared around 4.5 then it should be around 3.6 with 5 cell.
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Old 07-11-2008, 09:50 AM   #13
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what can i do to stop spinning out in the turns. Most of the time it is from the center to he exit of the corner. the back end of the car loose traction and spins around. Now i understand that this is commomn when you are going to fast but somtimes i am going pretty slow and it still comes around on me.
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Old 07-11-2008, 09:52 AM   #14
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Try longer rear camebr links or slightly stiffer rear springs...
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Old 07-11-2008, 07:35 PM   #15
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Any suggestions how to go into tight corner with no understeer with solid oneway in front?

i am new to asphalt as well and the best way i can figure to get through tight corners is to slow down.
Do some or all, try each out invidually, small step then a little extreme.

Battery or weights to the rear. When you break the weight transfer to the front giving more steering throughout the turn. Since the rear is unloaded, the car roates with less effort.

Lessen the caster for the front wheels.
Maybe add a slightly thicker shock oil to the rear than currently running.

ProDive/Kickup in the front. This will allow the car to physically transfer more weight faster to the front. This affect caster, so if you add 1 degree of dive, remove 1 degree of caster.

If you can install bi-rate shock pistons do that for the rear only. Bi-rate pistions give the full damping effect on compression but have a lighter rebound rate on extention. This will allow the rear shocks to extend as the car dives and weight transfer very fast.. Then as you hammer the throttle, the shocks compress slowly keeping the weight from transfering as fast.

More droop in the rear, less in the front. This allows the rear shocks to extend farther as the car dives when breaking. Then as you throttle up, the weight transfer is slowed by the rear shocks.

Since you said you are on asphalt, I reccomend the prodive/kickup. It does wonders to soak up the bumps when you car is on the straights.

Last edited by trailranger; 07-11-2008 at 07:54 PM.
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