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Old 07-08-2008, 12:26 AM   #16
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wow, so much discussion on this little module. I guess at the end of the day by using this module it'll tell you which motor is the best without using the ESC.

Good thing is it's the size and adaptability to any motor tester. Last thing you need is to haul another piece of equipment or buy another.
I got a glimpse of it working with the MM Motor Master. No additional wires or sensors required and that is sweet.

I don't see how this module would cost a lot of money. Who knows, as it's still in it's early stage as a prototype.
I got some better close up of the module which I'll post later.
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Old 07-08-2008, 08:21 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSteve93 View Post
I hope thats a good hall sensor for $15. My robotics team at my high school was using $50 ones
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It was $50 for 4 not $50 each. We had to use the robotics organizations sensors and they are way expensive.
4 for $50 = 1 for $12.50 ....you just contradicted your first post....again...
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Old 07-08-2008, 11:09 AM   #18
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Just take your old Brushed dyno hook up the MOTOR ESC like everyone else.

You might beable to use the power off the dyno just by setting the ESC at FULL Throttle and using a RX pack to power the ESC. Turn off LiPO Cuttoff.

When dyno puts voltage into the ESC, the esc will rev the motor. If that works, play with the different modes to see which give the best power curve for your racing.
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Old 07-08-2008, 11:20 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by trailranger View Post
Just take your old Brushed dyno hook up the MOTOR ESC like everyone else.

You might beable to use the power off the dyno just by setting the ESC at FULL Throttle and using a RX pack to power the ESC. Turn off LiPO Cuttoff.

When dyno puts voltage into the ESC, the esc will rev the motor. If that works, play with the different modes to see which give the best power curve for your racing.
You will need a reciever battery pack as per my post

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...39#post4291139
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Old 07-08-2008, 11:30 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Why wouldn't you use use Novak's Sentry with the brushless harness? It calculates RPM from the Hall sensors.

http://www.shopatron.com/product/part_number=5365/135.0

nevermind
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Old 07-08-2008, 01:30 PM   #21
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From the pic, this is being used with a speed checker, not a dyno. So basically, you are free revving your brushless motor at full throttle. Novak (and probably other manufacturers) strongly recommends against that. The question is: will this think work with a real dyno, that puts a load on the motor?
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Old 07-08-2008, 01:48 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by ta_man View Post
From the pic, this is being used with a speed checker, not a dyno. So basically, you are free revving your brushless motor at full throttle. Novak (and probably other manufacturers) strongly recommends against that. The question is: will this think work with a real dyno, that puts a load on the motor?
If you already had a dyno why would you need one of these?
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Old 07-08-2008, 02:10 PM   #23
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Because you still need some way to convert the DC that the Dyno outputs to the motor into AC that the brushless motor accepts.
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Old 07-08-2008, 02:11 PM   #24
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Because you still need some way to convert the DC that the Dyno outputs to the motor into AC that the brushless motor accepts.
Yeah I know, it's called a speed controller
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Old 07-08-2008, 02:41 PM   #25
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You will need a reciever battery pack as per my post

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...39#post4291139
Is that what a RX pack is? Check my post
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Old 07-08-2008, 02:55 PM   #26
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Is that what a RX pack is? Check my post
Yes just like I explain in January and posted the link to that yesterday
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Old 12-28-2008, 02:41 AM   #27
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This type of tool Help really?
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Old 12-28-2008, 08:49 AM   #28
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If you want to test your motors with a Brushed Dyno, Yes.
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Old 12-28-2008, 08:57 AM   #29
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If you want to test your motors with a Brushed Dyno, Yes.


For brushless
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Old 12-28-2008, 02:25 PM   #30
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Why do you need a motor dyno/checker for a BL motor? I maybe wrong but I thought all you can do to a BL motor is adjust the timing, the effects of which can be seen immediately on the track. When I was running brushed stock I would buy 2 or 3 motors, tune them, and throw them on a TurboDyno to see which one was best. Some guys bought more than that because there were big inconsistancies from motor to motor. But I thought BL was supposed to eliminate this madness as well as weekly maintenance, comm lathes, a box full of brushes/armatures, inconsistances between motors, and best of all, cheating. The "black art" of brushed motor tuning was supposed to be a thing of the past as well as "leveling" the playing field. But this thread maybe saying that things are headed back in the direction, buying several motors to find the "best" one. Except the motors are $80 instead of $40 and laptops are replacing comm lathes and brushes. I don't know about the rest of you but this is not what I bought into BL for.
Sorry for the rant.
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