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Old 12-12-2005, 04:31 PM   #316
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Hope I get an answer to this. I am trying to center the arm on my C2 and I have nothing but the phenolic washer on top of the arm. I know I can lightly sand down the washer, but is this normal? I am new to 19t, and with stock I usually end up with the phenolic and another washer on top of the arm. I have play in the other direction. Are there any good 19t tuning secrests sites like the one for stock motors?
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Old 12-12-2005, 06:53 PM   #317
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Hey Andrew,

I'm no expert, but I don't think the phenolic washer is completely necessary. To my understanding, it's main purpose is to keep oil from the bushing off of the comm.

I think i even got a lightspeed motor once that didn't have that washer inside.

So, unless someone here says otherwise, perhaps removing the washer and shimming it up right would work for you.
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Old 12-12-2005, 07:22 PM   #318
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Thanks Bob. I got the motor from rocco, so I kinda thought it would have been money to begin with. But it definitely needs wiggle room between the arm and the endbell. Any other suggestions for a rookie motor builder ?(19T or Stock)
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Old 12-12-2005, 07:50 PM   #319
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Anyone know what kind of pen, ink, or paint motor tuners like Lightspeed, Brood, or the like use to color one side of the endbell red? I know its not a sharpie because I tried to use a sharpie and it came off after only a few runs. The stuff I have seen on motor endbells stays bright red.
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Old 12-12-2005, 08:08 PM   #320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Anyone know what kind of pen, ink, or paint motor tuners like Lightspeed, Brood, or the like use to color one side of the endbell red? I know its not a sharpie because I tried to use a sharpie and it came off after only a few runs. The stuff I have seen on motor endbells stays bright red.
anodizing perhaps?
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Old 12-12-2005, 08:22 PM   #321
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It doesn't look like anodizing. I can actually see a layer of something above the surface of the copper endbell hardware. I have also seen it used to mark handout motors on the can. I have a C2 in my hand with a yellow mark on it from a handout race at my track. Any other ideas?
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Old 12-12-2005, 09:14 PM   #322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
It doesn't look like anodizing. I can actually see a layer of something above the surface of the copper endbell hardware. I have also seen it used to mark handout motors on the can. I have a C2 in my hand with a yellow mark on it from a handout race at my track. Any other ideas?
its the die that machine shops use to etch lines on the product to be machine
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Old 12-12-2005, 11:52 PM   #323
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Not sure if that is what it really is,cause motor spray would take it right off but if it is it's called "blueing" I've only ever seen it in red or blue.I've seen nail polish used on several occasions,more than likely what it is.
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Old 01-18-2006, 12:53 PM   #324
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Post reedy Q mag

CAM SOMEONE tell me what the Reedy spec quad mag 19t com size to run I have 2 and 5 C2's been working them over and overall the C2 has been the better motor any tips will help
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Old 01-18-2006, 02:16 PM   #325
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Com size honestly doesnt matter as much as most people think. Smaller the com the more brush overlap you have. This will result in more rpm and usually a less efficient motor that burns up real easy. Plus there isnt as much copper there to disapate heat.

When the com is bigger, there is more copper to diapate heat, and less brush overlap. It basically makes the motor more torqy. Generally you can just adjust for this though gearing. It would be cheaper and easier to mess with brush width as well. If the motor fades really hard either go to a slightly stiffer spring or narrow the brush a hair.

-Korey
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Old 01-18-2006, 03:03 PM   #326
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a new reedy qm has a com size of ~ .350 and will run well till it dies somewhere around .315.

Most likely your problem with the reedy is a result of poor brush contact. Since most laydown brushes (other than 766) are molded for a com size of .300 you will need to reface them with a tool like the fussy brush to match the larger com size so the entire brushface is in contact with the arm. Once you have shaped the brush to fit the KR size com you will only need ot break the brush in for 2-3min @ 2v and you'll be good to go.

I have found that the qm works well with reedy 767 or putnam green brushes with a cavity face. You may also want to try stiffer springs such as trinity red or purple. Some people swear by narrowing the brush face for this motor but I have never found it to produce more power but it does shift the power band.
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Old 01-18-2006, 03:30 PM   #327
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Yea I like Reedy 767's or the F-Brush with a small cavity in it (about 1.3mm), with red springs. I know many that have had very good luck with this combo.

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Old 01-19-2006, 12:02 AM   #328
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Arrow reedy

yah I ran 1 tonight it did ok I found after some brush work it came to life the only thing I didn't see is RPM max was 20 21 the C2 is 22 23.000 but I have yet to build a reedy to match the max power as a C2 "fantom dyno" I also found that I can get more out of the C2 with Hood work than the reedy say I will keep at it and post what I get
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Old 01-19-2006, 12:07 AM   #329
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The Reedy Quad mag doesnt really pull as many rpm as a C2. Thats just a characteristic of the motor, and thats why people say to gear them up from a c2. The fantom dyno is weird.... any motor that increases in rpm generally shows up as the better motor on it. The main thing the fantom is good for is to look at spool up characteristics and such. Thats just my opinion though. Some of the people on the boards probably have more experience with dyno's than myself.

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Old 01-19-2006, 12:12 AM   #330
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Lightbulb spool

thats is funny because I was going to add that the Reedy did spool up faster than the C2 I plan to workem over 2 mar
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