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Old 01-06-2002, 06:55 PM   #1
jcr
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Trinity Real Time 2 discharger

OK I'm planning to buy a Real Time 2 from a guy but one of the bulb is out. So I was wondering if anyone have the specs of the bulb so I can just go to an electronic store to get unstead of telling the LHS to order one bulb.

Also anyone got a picture of how the bulb look like? Any help would be great!

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Old 01-07-2002, 05:41 AM   #2
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jcr, Man I wish I knew what the ratings on those bulbs were. I just got rid of mine. Here's what I would do, first, make sure its the buld and not a diode, resistor or wire. Second, if it is the bulb, take out the burned out bulb and try to read the side of the bulb so that you can get the ratings of it. Third, if the bulb gives you ratings-your set, if not, go to an electronic store with your burnt bulb and try to find a bulb that is very similar(size,shape) to the burnt bulb. Now here's where it gets good, if you find some bulbs that are very similar to the bad bulb, BUY SIX of em! Its best to replace all six of the bulbs so that each cell you're going to discharge will be discharged the same, rather than replacing one bulb in the tray that could be differant from the other five, which could change the discharge chararistics of the tray.

Last edited by webspinner; 01-07-2002 at 07:04 AM.
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Old 01-07-2002, 06:44 AM   #3
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On the RT2 the bulbs are really just for indication. Some people say the bulbs for the mini maglite AAAx1 works. However when a friend tried this he found he could not get the green protective cap back on because the bulb was too tall! Just remove one of bulbs and buy six (or more!) of the same size rated for around 1.5v or less!

The discharge is done by those white resistors and there are no diodes on the RT2.
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Old 01-07-2002, 07:04 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by dtm
On the RT2 the bulbs are really just for indication. Some people say the bulbs for the mini maglite AAAx1 works. However when a friend tried this he found he could not get the green protective cap back on because the bulb was too tall! Just remove one of bulbs and buy six (or more!) of the same size rated for around 1.5v or less!

The discharge is done by those white resistors and there are no diodes on the RT2.
dtm- you are right on that the bulbs are there just for indication of cell contact, but for the diode part, double-check your resources, for one, if there weren't any diodes in the tray, the tray would pulls the cells below 0 volts. Second, I had to go into the tray because the fan wire broke off inside and I clearly remember seeing the diodes.
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Old 01-07-2002, 09:41 AM   #5
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Because each cell is isolated a cell cannot be pulled below zero volts. Voltage reversal occurs because cells are not electronicaally isolated (ie discharged as a pack). This is the point of using a tray, it isolates each cell.

The diodes are only for the fan circuitry, it drops the voltage to the fan so it doesnt overload and keeps the fan from reversing the pack.

Last edited by patcollins; 01-07-2002 at 09:44 AM.
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Old 01-07-2002, 09:59 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by proudwinner


dtm- you are right on that the bulbs are there just for indication of cell contact, but for the diode part, double-check your resources, for one, if there weren't any diodes in the tray, the tray would pulls the cells below 0 volts. Second, I had to go into the tray because the fan wire broke off inside and I clearly remember seeing the diodes.
Are you getting confused with the RT1 (which I do not have)..... my RT2 does not have any diodes that I can see with the back removed??
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Old 01-07-2002, 03:20 PM   #7
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anyone can get a picture of the bulb? How about using LED? I heard the bulb is not like a normal bulb which screws in if i was screw in then I can get it so easily. I have 1.1V bulbs. Also do you think about replacing one bulb i should actually replace all 6 since it is for indication and I think they draw 0.3A

so how bright does the bulb get when you put it on RT2? I mean after a 20A discharge. With the brightness, i might be able to determine what voltage the bulb should be. I think i shouldn't be higher than 1.5V but i think it might be 1.2,1.1 or 1.0V since the battery is only 1.2V.

As for the diode, I doubt i has a diode since you can put the battery any way so i diode won't work.
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Old 01-07-2002, 08:32 PM   #8
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an LED wont work because it takes more than 1.2 volts to light up an LED. Of the trays out there that use to use LED's they actually used the whole pack to light the LED's but the individual cells voltage controled a transistor that turned them on. Kinda sneaky.....
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Old 01-08-2002, 07:53 PM   #9
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Default RT2

Hi, I have a RT2 too, it works just great.
Recently when I put my 2400 matched Orion onto it, one of the LEDs went out first while the other five were still on and the fan was running. About a few minutes later all the LEDs went out almost at the same time. I wondered why, until I decided to take the voltage measurement of each cells the next day with the same that Orion 2400 matched pack. The cell that has the LED went out first had around .2v and its LED went out first, while the rest of the cells had nearly the same voltages, around .8v/cell.
15 minutes or so later, all the cells were equalized, each cell had .1v.

Could this be a sign that one of my cells starts to go into what's called a cell reversal ? I always take care all of my packs after every runs. Why does this happen ?
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