TAMIYA F103 RM
#1351
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
what is inside is anyone's guess.. I hope to never find out during racing thats for sure!!
i have raced my F103R 2 race meets now and when i was swapping tyres i decided to unscrew the rear left side (easier, less hassle as no diff) and saw only the faintest of outline in the axle of the grub screw..
it was no worse than what my TC lower deck looks like where the downstops contact the chassis, in actual fact it was a hell of a lot better!
maybe someone has broken one and can tell us?
#1352
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Just a note on the 3 Racing CF axle.
I had one and it lasted only 3 races, before it drilled holes where the grub screws contacted. It was rubbish.
In between ordering it and using I had read about them being hollow.
However, I broke it into 3 pieces before sending it to the bin.
It was solid. That surprised me.
I don't think 3 racing have the best quality control.
I had one and it lasted only 3 races, before it drilled holes where the grub screws contacted. It was rubbish.
In between ordering it and using I had read about them being hollow.
However, I broke it into 3 pieces before sending it to the bin.
It was solid. That surprised me.
I don't think 3 racing have the best quality control.
#1353
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Just a note on the 3 Racing CF axle.
I had one and it lasted only 3 races, before it drilled holes where the grub screws contacted. It was rubbish.
In between ordering it and using I had read about them being hollow.
However, I broke it into 3 pieces before sending it to the bin.
It was solid. That surprised me.
I don't think 3 racing have the best quality control.
I had one and it lasted only 3 races, before it drilled holes where the grub screws contacted. It was rubbish.
In between ordering it and using I had read about them being hollow.
However, I broke it into 3 pieces before sending it to the bin.
It was solid. That surprised me.
I don't think 3 racing have the best quality control.
J
#1354
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
It looks like the thrust assembly can go either way to me. It is not different on one side than the other. I did try to flip it though based on your recommendation. It is still really tight. If I tighten everything down without the rim and remove the excess gap, the diff is smooth as glass. The minute I put the rim on,, it turns to junk. I tried a new gear, balls and bearings. This is a NEW out of the box kit.
#1356
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
As noted, the grub screw does not seat well with the carbon shaft. I was thinking of machining a piece to fit in the slot for the grub screw to seat against to fix the problem. I have heard rumors of the carbon cracking.
Aluminum bends. Not a major bend, but just enough to tweak it and make the wheel wobble. Be prepared and buy several if you plan to run it.
Aluminum bends. Not a major bend, but just enough to tweak it and make the wheel wobble. Be prepared and buy several if you plan to run it.
Regarding your statement about the aluminum rear axel, you're SPOT ON. The aluminum tweaks just a little but makes a huge vibration in the car. The graphite will bend but usually recover from a hit, or snap all together. I'd stay away from aluminum or titanium rear shafts. Just my opinion.
#1357
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
It looks like the thrust assembly can go either way to me. It is not different on one side than the other. I did try to flip it though based on your recommendation. It is still really tight. If I tighten everything down without the rim and remove the excess gap, the diff is smooth as glass. The minute I put the rim on,, it turns to junk. I tried a new gear, balls and bearings. This is a NEW out of the box kit.
#1358
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
It looks like the thrust assembly can go either way to me. It is not different on one side than the other. I did try to flip it though based on your recommendation. It is still really tight. If I tighten everything down without the rim and remove the excess gap, the diff is smooth as glass. The minute I put the rim on,, it turns to junk. I tried a new gear, balls and bearings. This is a NEW out of the box kit.
Did you grease the thrust bearing? I know the manual doesn't ask you to, but you should anyway. Every other car I've ever built calls for the thrust bearing to be greased with thick grease. When I first built my 15th Anniversary edition, I didn't grease it, thinking Tamiya must have some reason for not calling for grease on it in the manual. Then when I put the wheel on and adjusted the diff, the diff was notchy and not smooth at all. Went back and greased the thrust bearing with Tamiya's AW grease(really pack it on there!) and re-assembled everything, and the diff was as smooth as glass.
If you haven't already, you might try this.
#1359
Tech Champion
iTrader: (108)
Bingo....i'd bet money that's the issue. Tamiya thrust bearings need to be slathered with AW grease.
I don't know if this was asked yet, but...
Did you grease the thrust bearing? I know the manual doesn't ask you to, but you should anyway. Every other car I've ever built calls for the thrust bearing to be greased with thick grease. When I first built my 15th Anniversary edition, I didn't grease it, thinking Tamiya must have some reason for not calling for grease on it in the manual. Then when I put the wheel on and adjusted the diff, the diff was notchy and not smooth at all. Went back and greased the thrust bearing with Tamiya's AW grease(really pack it on there!) and re-assembled everything, and the diff was as smooth as glass.
If you haven't already, you might try this.
Did you grease the thrust bearing? I know the manual doesn't ask you to, but you should anyway. Every other car I've ever built calls for the thrust bearing to be greased with thick grease. When I first built my 15th Anniversary edition, I didn't grease it, thinking Tamiya must have some reason for not calling for grease on it in the manual. Then when I put the wheel on and adjusted the diff, the diff was notchy and not smooth at all. Went back and greased the thrust bearing with Tamiya's AW grease(really pack it on there!) and re-assembled everything, and the diff was as smooth as glass.
If you haven't already, you might try this.
#1360
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
You're right about the grub screw wearing into the graphite/carbon rear axel. But there is a fix for it. All you need to do is purchase a piece of brass shim stock from your local hobby shop. Use some metal cutter to cut the shim stock down to fit the flat surface of the axel. Next apply a little CA to secure it into the place. Test fit it into the hub to make sure it doesn't rub. If it does rub or bind, use a small file to knock down the edges, small bits at a time and test fit again. Once it's fitted properly you all set. The grub screw will seat into the brass and wont split the graphite. I've done this for years and works really well. Occasionally you might have to replace the brass shim but the axel will be great shape and last longer.
Regarding your statement about the aluminum rear axel, you're SPOT ON. The aluminum tweaks just a little but makes a huge vibration in the car. The graphite will bend but usually recover from a hit, or snap all together. I'd stay away from aluminum or titanium rear shafts. Just my opinion.
Regarding your statement about the aluminum rear axel, you're SPOT ON. The aluminum tweaks just a little but makes a huge vibration in the car. The graphite will bend but usually recover from a hit, or snap all together. I'd stay away from aluminum or titanium rear shafts. Just my opinion.
#1361
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
I have not used the grease but I HAVE used some silicone diff lube already with no luck... I will try the grease instead... I do not have high hopes though based on the fact I assembled the diff without the rim on the car. I used some old thrust washers to take up the play that the rim normally would, and the diff was great that way. It is only when the thrust assembly is installed inside the rim....
#1363
It seems to be no secret that some times racers have a little go fast secret that they keep to themselves. This weekend I decided to try out one that I picked up from a hint here at RC Tech and found it to be a godsend for my F103.
To get to the point it is the 3.5mm Offset Upright option part from Tamiya part #53259. I spend an hour trying to chase down an appropriate radio setting to help settle down my car with minimal success. I ended up in a wreck that sent me into the pits to change out the control arms and decided to put in the option part upright while I had everything apart. When I put my car back on the track it was like night and day. Steering was still very responsive, but it was now more predictable.
Please someone correct me on this, but I believe it adds some effective castor resulting in better front end tracking. Anyway, what ever it is it is good stuff for my driving “style”. At the risk of loosing a position or two to the competition, it is too good to keep to myself.
To get to the point it is the 3.5mm Offset Upright option part from Tamiya part #53259. I spend an hour trying to chase down an appropriate radio setting to help settle down my car with minimal success. I ended up in a wreck that sent me into the pits to change out the control arms and decided to put in the option part upright while I had everything apart. When I put my car back on the track it was like night and day. Steering was still very responsive, but it was now more predictable.
Please someone correct me on this, but I believe it adds some effective castor resulting in better front end tracking. Anyway, what ever it is it is good stuff for my driving “style”. At the risk of loosing a position or two to the competition, it is too good to keep to myself.
#1364
That is an interesting tip on the offset steering blocks, most all 12th and 10 pan cars use an offset steering block rather than a centered one like the stock Tamiya, plus the F103 does not have much static caster,and the lack of camber, all lead to a nevrous and twitchy car in most cases , gonna have to give those a try.... I believe non offset steering blocks might be more popular in oval...
#1365
The offset steering block is an old trick used back when many were still trying to get the "hop-up" pivot ball rear end to work. In the end the fastest consistent result was to go back to the o-ring setup with the stock front end. The erratic feeling many find with the car is a result of the lack or rear dampening when using the pivot ball rear end w/o tweak screws.