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Old 10-23-2008, 08:37 AM   #616
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Did the battery pins fall out? Because those tamiya pins suck. They pop out all the time.
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Old 10-23-2008, 08:41 AM   #617
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52 BUCKS!!!! That's a deal! Wanna sell it to me for 55? Damn where is everyone finding these Tamiya body's so cheap. I'm always looking and paying two to three time more.
I found an even cheaper one!! For you Americans on Ebay, buy now price is $45!!!! THAT'S CHEAP!!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-Williams-Renault-FW18-F1-F103-rare_W0QQitemZ260304688359QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item 260304688359&_trkparms=72%3A1205|39%3A1|66%3A2|65% 3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
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Old 10-23-2008, 09:50 AM   #618
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bikerbob: might want to check your bottom screws of your t-plate that connects to the battery top deck. we (f1 racers in Manila) usually put threadlock on those screws since it has a tendency to loosen up during races which causes spin outs and might be a cause as well for your batteries to fall out.

just a thought
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Old 10-23-2008, 10:27 AM   #619
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Did the battery pins fall out? Because those tamiya pins suck. They pop out all the time.

No, I am using an Orion 2400 lipo with the hard case.. it is larger than the space given for the stickpacks.

I am trying to use the ball suspension, but it looks like I should use the o-ring with the square retainers.

I found the manual for the older F103 on Tamiya club.. so I have the instructions on doing up the o-ring suspension.. just going to have to buy the o-rings.. lol


James

Last edited by Bikerbob; 10-23-2008 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 10-23-2008, 11:59 AM   #620
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No, I am using an Orion 2400 lipo with the hard case.. it is larger than the space given for the stickpacks.

I am trying to use the ball suspension, but it looks like I should use the o-ring with the square retainers.

I found the manual for the older F103 on Tamiya club.. so I have the instructions on doing up the o-ring suspension.. just going to have to buy the o-rings.. lol


James
Defiantly go with the o-ring suspension and tape the battery in. The ball suspension gives now lateral dampening or self centering so when the car rolls it dumps too abruptly and can cause a wheel lift that unloads the diff making the car rotate or spin inconsistently.

The other thing to check would be your diff you need to make it tight enough where you can barely turn the spur with your thumb while holding the wheels, any looser and it slip under acceleration and over rotate on corner exit.

Mark
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Old 10-23-2008, 12:03 PM   #621
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I found the manual for the older F103 on Tamiya club.. so I have the instructions on doing up the o-ring suspension..
Can you post a link? I am a member there.
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Old 10-23-2008, 12:22 PM   #622
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The o-ring setup, from Tamiya's F103LM manual --
Attached Thumbnails
TAMIYA F103 RM-o-ring_setup.jpg  
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Old 10-23-2008, 01:07 PM   #623
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Originally Posted by mtveten View Post
Defiantly go with the o-ring suspension and tape the battery in. The ball suspension gives now lateral dampening or self centering so when the car rolls it dumps too abruptly and can cause a wheel lift that unloads the diff making the car rotate or spin inconsistently.

The other thing to check would be your diff you need to make it tight enough where you can barely turn the spur with your thumb while holding the wheels, any looser and it slip under acceleration and over rotate on corner exit.

Mark
Just taping the batteries in would eliminate alot of the problems. The battery retainers under severe corner load will hit the ground and upset the chassis. If you run tweek screws with the ball pivot and adjust properly the ball pivot works fine. Also what front springs were you running? How much preload in the shock?
Those are two critical areas to work with
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Old 10-23-2008, 01:39 PM   #624
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Just taping the batteries in would eliminate alot of the problems. The battery retainers under severe corner load will hit the ground and upset the chassis. If you run tweek screws with the ball pivot and adjust properly the ball pivot works fine. Also what front springs were you running? How much preload in the shock?
Those are two critical areas to work with

Agreed the battery retainers are the biggest problem providing you add the tweak screws to the ball pivot. I spent quite a bit of time working with the tweak screw ball pivots on the rubber tire chassis setup and although I was able to get good results I was consistently faster with the o-ring. The o-ring setup seems to have a wide adjustment range & smoother off-center reaction making it easy to go quick.

I haven't received my stiff chassis plate yet so springs don't seem to factor in yet but once I do I would expect the med front springs w/ either a red or yellow center spring to be the norm for most tracks. I am running the center shock adjusted to where the pod is in a straight line with the chassis and about .5mm uptravel in the front.

Mark
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Old 10-23-2008, 03:39 PM   #625
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I finally drove mine. What a handful! This car really brings out driving flaws. I need a lot more practice. I really need to learn to set this car up while I'm at it. I get a ton of torque steer just accelerating on a straight. I'm grabbing way too much throttle. I think the diff was too tight also. I keep backing it off a 1/4 turn at a time trying to induce some slip. I have to adjust the ESC also to limit the punch and change the curve on the throttle response. Right now it has too much power from a stand still. I'll probably pester Dave when I get to the track. He bleeds Tamiya and is extremely fast with his already.

Dave, if you read this and I don't introduce myself next time I'm there, you have my permission to give me a good thump upside the head.
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Old 10-23-2008, 03:51 PM   #626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtveten View Post
I haven't received my stiff chassis plate yet so springs don't seem to factor in yet but once I do I would expect the med front springs w/ either a red or yellow center spring to be the norm for most tracks. I am running the center shock adjusted to where the pod is in a straight line with the chassis and about .5mm uptravel in the front.

Mark
Mark have you tried the f103 banana trick with the back end? Where you use the extended shock ball cup, making the shock way too long, it bends the T bar back, and gives the ride height a huge clearance in the centre? Yes it looks as strange as it sounds, but on low bite, it works amazing.... i found it really good on both carpet and asphalt.
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Old 10-23-2008, 05:06 PM   #627
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Mark have you tried the f103 banana trick with the back end? Where you use the extended shock ball cup, making the shock way too long, it bends the T bar back, and gives the ride height a huge clearance in the centre? Yes it looks as strange as it sounds, but on low bite, it works amazing.... i found it really good on both carpet and asphalt.
I can't say that I have. Am I correct in assuming that increasing the spring-preload to where it distorts the t-bar would do the same thing? The net result is an increase in on-power steering at the expense of bumb handling & initial off-power steering correct?

Mark
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Old 10-23-2008, 08:17 PM   #628
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outside of chassis setup, throttle settings are probably the most important factor in the car working or not. My thought on the spring preload is that you are driving too much of the weight bias to the front and making the car want to continuously swap ends.
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Old 10-24-2008, 05:49 AM   #629
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Can you post a link? I am a member there.
I took all the jpgs and converted it to a pdf. If you want I can give you a link to the pdf.. or pm me an email and I can mail the pdf to you.

James
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Old 10-24-2008, 05:51 AM   #630
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Originally Posted by BP SHADOW View Post
Just taping the batteries in would eliminate alot of the problems. The battery retainers under severe corner load will hit the ground and upset the chassis. If you run tweek screws with the ball pivot and adjust properly the ball pivot works fine. Also what front springs were you running? How much preload in the shock?
Those are two critical areas to work with
Ok, ball suspension is what all the really fast guys are running at the track. Now I am not sure if any are running tweek screws.. if I wanted to put them in.. could any mark up a pic to show me how to do that?

James
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