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Old 10-21-2008, 02:15 PM   #601
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Originally Posted by Bikerbob View Post
Guess I could tape it, but man thats a pain in the butt to tape up remove tape up.. as I have to charge the lipo in a lipo sack - I cant leave it in the car.

Is there instructions on how to build it with the o-ring suspension rather than the ball? The RM manual only shows how to build the ball suspension.

James
Taping the battery isn't that big of a deal if you cut the battery retainer extensions off so it looks like the aluminum hop-up part shown on the tamiya site.

For the o-ring suspension simple replace the 2 suspension mounts with the other set supplied, and in place of the thin flat washers use the supplied o-ring. The o-ring setup is adjusted by how tight or loose you make the pivot screws, I would suggest starting with the front screw tight and the rear one about 1.5 turns out from tight. For more roll & mid corner side bite loose the screws ,start with the rear but do not go beyond 2 turns out and loose the the front if more is needed. A tighter setting will help the car react quicker and generally carry more speed through the corners.

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Old 10-21-2008, 02:35 PM   #602
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With the o ring suspension, i started using no oring and a small washer in the front, and a oring in the back. The front screw is done very tight, and the back is just snug on the oring. I also use the S (soft) type T bar which i had on my old TRF-F103. You can stil pick up the S bars on ebay, I got one for my other car last month. These gave me a tonne more rear grip running on carpet with rubber tires.
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Old 10-21-2008, 08:23 PM   #603
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The Roadrunners's club in Camarillo is getting more people running the F1 class.
The F1 class is running Silver can "Mabuchi/Johnson" only.
This weekend we will try to run with the Pink stock motor.
We're running on the 2nd and 4th Sunday of the month.
We will have 6 to 8 people this weekend for the F1 class.
Come and join us.

Cal,
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Old 10-21-2008, 08:36 PM   #604
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Any overheat issues without the heat sink? Thanks.
TitaniumR: you're welcome. i'm not that familiar with the GTB, but since our f1club only races the stock motor (mabuchi), we need not worry on the overheat issues of our ESCs - even for our 30 minute final heat.
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Old 10-22-2008, 12:46 AM   #605
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Any overheat issues without the heat sink? Thanks.
now mr. keong, if your gtb can overheat without the heatsink fan when using silvercan or sport tune motors, then ep cars are not for you. please go back to gas car racing then...
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Old 10-22-2008, 09:43 AM   #606
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Much Hobby has the L body Kit in stock, just got an email notification.
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Old 10-22-2008, 09:49 AM   #607
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Originally Posted by alecladanga View Post
TitaniumR: you're welcome. i'm not that familiar with the GTB, but since our f1club only races the stock motor (mabuchi), we need not worry on the overheat issues of our ESCs - even for our 30 minute final heat.
Thanks alecladanga for your advise. I'm getting a better understanding.
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:27 AM   #608
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now mr. keong, if your gtb can overheat without the heatsink fan when using silvercan or sport tune motors, then ep cars are not for you. please go back to gas car racing then...
Hello Alan, please pm me your contact. Have stop 1/8 on road long time back. Have been doing a bit of electric with b44 and kyosho f16 jet. Just for some simple fun cos at this moment, preparation time before running those cars, dragging hudy boards, setup kits, fuel, fuel bottle, starter box, charging them,... to the track and after run cleaning is rather tedious.

You know what's on my mind, trying to fit in the gtb with the lowest of turn possible(10T? may need the fan) for this 103 pan car. I enjoyed my RC 10L alot back then.... do you know how does it handle vs the electric tc?
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:34 AM   #609
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Originally Posted by alana07 View Post
now mr. keong, if your gtb can overheat without the heatsink fan when using silvercan or sport tune motors, then ep cars are not for you. please go back to gas car racing then...
Hello Alan, please pm me your contact. Have stop 1/8 on road long time back. Have been doing a bit of electric with b44 and kyosho f16 jet. Just for some simple fun cos at this moment, preparation time before running those cars, dragging hudy boards, setup kits, fuel, fuel bottle, starter box, charging them,... to the track and after run cleaning is rather tedious.

You know what's on my mind, trying to fit in the gtb with the lowest of turn possible(10T? may need the fan) for this 103 pan car. I enjoyed my RC 10L alot back then.... do you know how does it handle vs the electric tc?
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Old 10-22-2008, 12:43 PM   #610
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Much Hobby has the L body Kit in stock, just got an email notification.
a canadian store has them for sale on ebay too
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Old 10-22-2008, 03:59 PM   #611
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Ello from France.
I Am a fan of this great F103!. Here i wish to perfect my poor english language.. I expect you will be so cool with me and my english.

I have a Ferrari body, with Jean Alesi in the cockpit.I have this F103 as 10 years.

I will post some pics tomorrow.

BBYE.
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Old 10-22-2008, 09:38 PM   #612
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Ello from France.
I Am a fan of this great F103!. Here i wish to perfect my poor english language.. I expect you will be so cool with me and my english.

I have a Ferrari body, with Jean Alesi in the cockpit.I have this F103 as 10 years.

I will post some pics tomorrow.

BBYE.
Love to see some pics of your car, post them!
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Old 10-22-2008, 09:44 PM   #613
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Quick, hopefully easy question. I swapped in a fast 27T motor for an upcoming spec race. If I accelerate too hard the car spins right away -- I really have to baby the throttle. Do I perhaps just have to tighten the diff a bit? I'm running it fairly loose as I was having trouble turning in.
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:26 PM   #614
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I have a 17t motor in mine and it never spins out. So, tighten the diff more, until it stops spinnig out.
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Old 10-23-2008, 05:24 AM   #615
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Talking Race report

Ok, first race with my 103 last night.

3 heats and a main.

I was not able to get the car setup right in time, so I missed qualifying, so I started at the bottom of what we call F2.

27 cars last night.. 4 heats of drivers. I started bottom of 4

1st time out - not good.. battery kept popping out on ANY side impact. using the orion 2400 lipo - its a spec battery in this class. Also car spun quite a lot and was very bouncy.

2nd time out - still battery issue, but completed more laps. Different set of rear tires helped.

Found that grease i was using on damp plate was too thick. Also after 2 runs front tires are getting warmed up (bought this used - arrived monday!! )
Found I had a build issue with the suspension - why I was bouncing. Removed battery holders and tapped battery in for third heat.

3rd time out - Won my heat - 19laps 5:05 (2 sec/lap slower than fastest F1 car) battery still getting knocked - this is a major issue I need to solve. with fixed suspension and more movement in the rear pod.. it worked much better. Geared 93/23 with black can.. and it ran fast, and did not heat that much. Off power it would still spin out.

4th C-main - So I ended up being the best of the worst by 8/10ths of a sec (missing the B-main) oh well.. considering the progress I am happy. I started pole, and never gave up the lead - it really was only close on the 1st lap. We had a guy in our main that was running a geared down silver can.. so he was SLOW.. I was lapping him every 3.. that was the most challenging part. With 1 min to go I took the front straight too fast and slid sideways into the boards - Pushed the battery out AGAIN!!! ahhh.. you could see it pushed about an inch and a half out the left side.. which totally unbalanced the car.. but I had a 2 lap lead. I finished with the win.. but I had to slow down a lot to finish.. and I think the 2nd place fellow was only just a lap behind at the finish. 19lap 5:02 - I was on a 20 - maybe 21 lap pace if the battery did not come out.. SO.. battery is now my biggest issue to solve.

FUN night.. enjoyed learning to drive these a lot.

James
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