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Old 09-22-2008, 09:03 AM   #256
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Hello

Could someone tell me the pitch used for the stock gear? Is is a tamiya 0.6 pitch? 0.4 pitch?
With the stock 63 or 64 T spur gear, how big is the biggest pinion fitting? As the motor I will be using has a low RPM (3100 Kv with 2S Lipo, so around 23 000 RPM max), I was thinking about something like a 28/64 gear ratio. Do you think it will be possible?
Thank you
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Old 09-22-2008, 09:47 AM   #257
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The F103RMs come with a 63T .6 Mod pitch spur and an aluminum 17T .6 Mod pitch pinion out of the box. Its a pain to find that info! Tamiya offers quite a few gears, but the pitch doesn't allow for real minute adjustments to the Final Drive Ratio. I'm thining about switching to .4 Mod and the finer toothed .4 mod pinions myself.
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Old 09-22-2008, 09:51 AM   #258
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Originally Posted by DaTaz View Post
Could someone tell me the pitch used for the stock gear? Is is a tamiya 0.6 pitch? 0.4 pitch?
0.6 pitch

Quote:
With the stock 63 or 64 T spur gear, how big is the biggest pinion fitting?
It comes with a 17 tooth pinion, but you can go bigger. you can easily get a 28t pinion for your car.

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As the motor I will be using has a low RPM (3100 Kv with 2S Lipo, so around 23 000 RPM max), I was thinking about something like a 28/64 gear ratio. Do you think it will be possible?
Thank you
sure...
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Old 09-22-2008, 10:08 AM   #259
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Thanks for your quick answers
I juste hope my motor (Team Orion BL Experience Touring Pack) will have enough torque, but I think that a motor with a 23 000 RPM but an output power of 180W will have enough punch in this very light car.
As I'll be using two heli batteries (45 grams each), I hope to have something very light, proving that Colin Chapman was right "Light is right".
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Old 09-22-2008, 10:13 AM   #260
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one last question. acrylic or enamel paints?
acrylic

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proving that Colin Chapman was right "Light is right".
love the lotus quote !
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Old 09-22-2008, 10:15 AM   #261
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one last question. acrylic or enamel paints?
Either one will work. I’ve used both. Just make sure you get the right thinner on the brush to clean up. If I remember correctly the Tamiya Acrylics are water based so clean up is easy. I like the Testors flat black, but you have to use a thinner on the brush. I use Testors 1148 to clean my brushes up. What ever you end up with just make sure they’re “flat” paints. I hate seeing F1’s with out the driver being finished. It looks like they’re wearing a vinyl suit. LOL

FYI...the Testors 1148 thinner is safe on polycarbonate, so if you need to fix a mistake you can erase it with that and it wont screw up the body.
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Old 09-23-2008, 12:46 PM   #262
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many items instock
& use rubber tire easy to driver , don't need keep to check ride height .
offtopic; RCMARKET-> When will you fix the seach option on your site! I often go to other online shops because your searchbox gives errors.... very irritating. I want to buy the F103RM but can't find some things...... Thanx!
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Old 09-23-2008, 12:55 PM   #263
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cheers littlejohn.

anyone wanna buy a brand new F103RM original unused motor ?

If it's a Johnson motor (mine was), yes. I'll send you a PM.
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Old 09-23-2008, 01:05 PM   #264
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Pete,
We missed you last race.
I ran the foam tires for qualify and ran the TRG rubber tires for the main.
Car got faster with rubber tires.
  • Front : Hard
  • Rear: Soft
I'll try the Medium for the Front next race.
Cal,
I've been battling incredible understeer with my F103RM from day one. Probably partly because I know nothing about pan car setup so I'm flying blind. Maybe I'll try the rubber tires, medium all around, and put a proper damper on there. I really want to race open wheel, but I just haven't been able to make this thing driveable.

For the damper, it's just a regular touring car damper, right? I have plenty of the plastic Tamiya ones around after upgrading other cars to TRF. What spring/oil/piston should I run for asphalt?
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Old 09-23-2008, 01:15 PM   #265
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My bad...I was recently putting together an older f103 kit and it didn't come with bearings. I stand corrected, the new F103RM does include bearings.

OK...regarding the questions about what hopups I've used on the car pictured...I've made a list and included part numbers. Keep in mind I had 90% of what's there already. If you where to make a car like this one you and didn't have anything to start with this is what you would need. I included the quantity you would need to order as well. Good luck and happy shopping.

Part # Description Qty
42120 3x42 Blue Titanium Turnbuckle Set 1
49474 3mm Countersunk Washer Set (Blue) 1
51000 RC Hi-Torque Servo Saver (Black) 1
53021 3mm Aluminum Nut 1
53030 850 Sealed Ball Bearing (4) 1
53066 1280 Sealed Bearing (3) 1
53124 3mm Tungsten Diff Ball Set 1
53148 F1 Graphite Friction Plate F103 1
53149 Teflon Friction Pads F103 1
53150 F1 Turnbuckle Tie Rods 1
53273 RC Rear Suspension Ball Mount w/ Blue Shock Mount 1
53876 RC Aluminum Damper Retainer 1
53901 TRF Special Damper (Shock Blue) 1
53902 RC F103GT Aluminum Mtr Mount - Height Adj Blue 1
53907 5x8 Aluminum Ball Connector (Blue (used on damper post only)) 1
53900 .04 Module Spur Gear Set 93T / 104T 1
53767 3x10mm Socket Screw - Round Head (Blue) 3
53379 HCCA Differential Ball Set 1
53159 Anodized Flange Lock Nuts - 4mm (Blue) 1
53873 Setting Spacer Set (for carbon damper stay TA05) 1
53876 Aluminum Damper Retainer - 1mm down type (2 kits needed if using damper post) 1
54081 F103 Carbon Upper Deck (long) 1
54088 F103 Aluminum Servo Mount 1
53534 3x8mm Countersunk Hex Head Screw 2
42122 Blue Titanium Turbuckle Wrench 1
53869 5mm Aluminum Short Ball Nut Blue 1
53163 RC On-road Tuned Spring Set (4WD/FWD Touring Car) 1
53765 3x6mm Socket Screw Round Head Blue - 5pcs 2
54082 F103 Alum Diff Housing 1
54092 F103 Hard Carbon Chassis 1
53766 3x8mm Socket Screw Round Head Blue - 5pcs 1
any advise on a good shop who has these parts?
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Old 09-23-2008, 02:50 PM   #266
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I run a short red srping (or regular yellow/silver), 30wt oil and two hole pistons. If you can, put some traction compound, Paragon, sun tan lotion, etc. on the insides of your fronts and on the whole of the rears. More coverage on the fronts with less traction. Higher traction track use firmer springs in the front and thicker grease on the plates and tighten the rear screw all the way down, for tracks with less traction do the opposite.
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Old 09-23-2008, 03:06 PM   #267
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http://d-drivesportsenglish.com/
http://www.muchhobby.com/

both are good.
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Old 09-24-2008, 12:21 AM   #268
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I've had good success by raising the rear axle height, and loosening the diff slightly. 103's are upset by weight balance easily, By raising the rear height, your shifting your weight balance forward and increasing front grip. Only make 1 change at a time so you can see how each change affects the car.
When setting your diff, Think of it like a clutch pack LSD in your car. By locking the rear wheels you'll induce understeer on turn in, but increase drive on exit, By running a loose diff, you'll have great turn in, but tend to light up the inside rear wheel on corner exit.

Turn in understeer is usually the last thing I'll address when setting up unless it's diabolical, then I'll loosen the diff right out until I get the chassis well balanced mid corner, then tune the diff accordingly.

If your still a bit unsure, Read Carroll Smiths Cause and Effect, It gives you a really good starting point and a good understanding of car balance and how certain changes will affect it

Cheers
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Old 09-24-2008, 07:57 AM   #269
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Couple of progress pics of the Chevron F1-08. Painting as the Renault R27, Not my favourite car, But I need some practice before doing the McLaren again
Taken nearly 2 weeks so far to get here, Coming fromTC's this really tests my patience




This is on the new CF-01 chassis. Has clearance issues with the front shocks and the driver, But looks bombed so the effort has been worth it so far

Cheers
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Old 09-24-2008, 08:27 AM   #270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rxsevengt View Post
I've had good success by raising the rear axle height, and loosening the diff slightly. 103's are upset by weight balance easily, By raising the rear height, your shifting your weight balance forward and increasing front grip. Only make 1 change at a time so you can see how each change affects the car.
When setting your diff, Think of it like a clutch pack LSD in your car. By locking the rear wheels you'll induce understeer on turn in, but increase drive on exit, By running a loose diff, you'll have great turn in, but tend to light up the inside rear wheel on corner exit.

Turn in understeer is usually the last thing I'll address when setting up unless it's diabolical, then I'll loosen the diff right out until I get the chassis well balanced mid corner, then tune the diff accordingly.

If your still a bit unsure, Read Carroll Smiths Cause and Effect, It gives you a really good starting point and a good understanding of car balance and how certain changes will affect it

Cheers
Aaron
That's very helpful and I can't wait to get to work on it. I'm sure my diff is too tight, as I like the rear diff fairly tight on a touring car so I probably cranked it down pretty good during assembly. I also have my rear ride height all the way low, so I'm 2 for 2.
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