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Old 01-20-2010, 09:35 PM   #2266
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Originally Posted by BP SHADOW View Post
Dont know if it was intentional, but you built the rear wing backwards.
For the front, I would get ahold of a heat gun and heat the legs on the wing and bend them inward.
Get 'em BP,
I think he has to just drill his hole directly were the nose connection will be to solve his issue?
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:33 AM   #2267
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Sorry for the confusion, I was actually referring to the ball connector that holds the steering rods. The threaded part is so thin that it breaks easily upon impact. Is there something stronger like what's used in TC cars?

thanks.

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What tie rods are you using now?
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Old 01-21-2010, 04:39 AM   #2268
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Originally Posted by BP SHADOW View Post
Dont know if it was intentional, but you built the rear wing backwards.
For the front, I would get ahold of a heat gun and heat the legs on the wing and bend them inward.
I purposedly did it that way, more downforce , will try you advised.

tnx
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:24 AM   #2269
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Dont know if it was intentional, but you built the rear wing backwards.
For the front, I would get ahold of a heat gun and heat the legs on the wing and bend them inward.
I just assembled my second F104 rear wing and actually had two switch parts twice. At least I know I am not the only one that is confused by that design.
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:25 AM   #2270
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What are the differences between an F103 and the RM version?
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:50 PM   #2271
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What are the differences between an F103 and the RM version?
Not many, the RM had a couple of hop ups if im not mistaken, I believe they were the lightweight diff joints and the pivotball rear suspension. The only other difference that I know of was the body the car came with, I think there were 3 different RM releases.
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Old 01-25-2010, 10:18 AM   #2272
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Does anyone know if they make the complete Ball diff conversion for the 103 chassis??.......... Want to change the gear diff to a ball diff......... Maybe a complete conversion is available and part #??

Thanks!
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Old 01-25-2010, 11:23 AM   #2273
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Does anyone know if they make the complete Ball diff conversion for the 103 chassis??.......... Want to change the gear diff to a ball diff......... Maybe a complete conversion is available and part #??

Thanks!
the 103 already has a ball diff
if you want to upgrade to bling bling blue, you can order this part
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54082
If you have a car with a gear diff then you have a Road Wizard, the 101,102,103 and 104 all come stock with a ball diff
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Old 01-25-2010, 11:40 AM   #2274
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IC....... I guess it's loud because of the 48 pitch spur/pinion combo.

Thanks Guys for the info!
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Old 02-24-2010, 02:39 PM   #2275
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Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone had some good tire setups for carpet and asphalt. First time out for F1 TCS so, Tamiya sponge tire setups only please. Thanks.
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Old 02-24-2010, 03:03 PM   #2276
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Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone had some good tire setups for carpet and asphalt. First time out for F1 TCS so, Tamiya sponge tire setups only please. Thanks.
Which of the TCS, Aliso Viejo #150? It matters cuz I have a set-up for there but know nothing about the other tracks in the series...
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Old 08-13-2010, 12:47 AM   #2277
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Hi, I have a F103RM and was having serious problems with rear traction on the asphelt track I race on. We run rubber tyres only at our track and silver can motors(going brushless soon). I have finally got a set of RIDE tyres and they are awesome, heaps better the the Tamiya A's or TRG qualifers.

I have seen a F103 not using the rear friction plates and running the shock directly to the motor mount.
In what way would this help?
With side to side movement(twist) how much should I allow(if any)?

Thanks.
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Old 08-13-2010, 03:12 PM   #2278
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If the track is really loose, you might want to try the ball mount rear suspension. I have seen a few guys running the 103RM like this, and it seems like it's very good on lower traction tracks. Granted, this was with foam. Are you using the o-ring setup now?

These guys with no damper plate are trying to keep the car's suspension from being to slow to react. That's not always the best way, since sometimes it's too soft, and the car isn't stable enough to go in a straight line, and/or it just flops to the outside, and overpowers the tire. Do you run the standard t bar? You could also try widening the rear at the rear axle with spacers at the bulkheads. That can be helpful at times.

Are there holes in the rims so the tires can breathe? Is it a dirty track? Are you warming the tires? Saucing?

Here's a couple of old posts from formula1-rc.com that dealt with rubber tires....


"Well letís see how this goes. Usually when I post no one comments and Iím the last reply. :\ Itís like I have the plague or something. All I can give you is my experience. I have run the RX car before. I found that it worked quite well on an unprepared surface with foam tires. Before we started applying traction additive to the track the surface was very loose, like ice. The RX car with all of its hop ups, was the ticket (my opinion). I always felt that the car worked better the softer you made it. The link type suspension did this to the front of the car. I would use light grease on the hinge pins, black springs, and light damper grease on the kingpin. The ball pivot T-plate let the car settle a little better in low speed curves/turns, with the soft T-plate. I used the ride height adjustable pod only because we ran foams and you would constantly have to adjust ride height as the tire whore down. As time went on we received permission to use traction additive (maple syrupÖ.hmmm pancakes) on the track. As the traction increased we where able to tighten the chassis up. Everyone began to run the standard T-plate with the traditional O-ring adjustment. We where still running foams and adding traction compounds to them, so the tighter you made the car the faster it went. The link type front end began to act inconsistent in high-speed turns and fast chicanes. So looking for more consistent handling, the original front end went back on with black springs and original axles. When they came out with the rule change to rubber tires it wasnít just a swap and go. If you did that, then you where always playing catch up or you became a rolling chicane. Believe me I tried. At this point it was time to start over again with set up. I was all over the map looking for something that worked. I swore the tires would never work and it was setting our hobby back ten steps. I had a friend tell me to try some set-ups. Basically take what we had and soften it up just a little. Low and behold it worked. The car was enjoyable to run again and competitive (again my opinion). As far as weight goes I donít think weight has very much to do with it. I have raced against guys who have every steel screw and nut on their car and their extremely competitive. I have every alloy piece I can get my hands on, and they have beaten me. I donít think the RS is that much lighter then the RX, I can weigh the two and let you know if you would like. I hate to repeat the same thing but everyone has a different driving styleÖÖ and every track is different. So you canít compare what we run here to what the guys in HI run, itís apples and oranges. I would love to take a trip over there to see how my car would work and like wise have them come here"

"
Hi Gtypecanare, The hot ticket at Tamiya is; 103RS with a hard carbon chassis. If youíre running the FRP (kit chassis) then use the long upper stiffener)*gtypecanare comment-get the hard-carbon chasiss, with the long upper stiffener the car still flexes Stock front end with black springs Stock axles (the white nylon ones) Aluminum oil damper, 3 whole piston, 20 Ė25 weight oil and the pink spring If you have the plastic shock use everything above but use 80 weight oil Gold springs on the damper Light grease on the damper (Adjust tension as traction permits) Stock T-Plate Standard bulkhead with black O-rings on the T-Plate* (adjust the tension of the T-Plate as traction permits) 103RS standard/stock rear pod Carbon rear axle Johnson or Mabuchi 540 motor 93 tooth 0.4 pitch spur gear (the white Tamiya spur) 26, 27, or 28 tooth pinion gear Tamiya B compound tires, front and rear Any F-1 body you prefer *Some people have started using the pivot ball bulkhead for the T-Plate. I have assembled another car to do testing with this set up. It does work however I found that you couldnít really ride up on the curbing in the turns with it. It tends to make the cars rear end slide out. I use the standard O-ring set up on my primary car. Thatís the basic set up. If you donít have any of the parts above and are in question of what to run or how to set up a substitute let me know. Iíll do my best to help you out. Stop by my table and say hi, look for the silver F1 car or ask for Brian Matteson. Hope to see you guys out there. here is some info Brian posted a few months back. Its a really good starting point for getting a F103 set-up for the Tamiya Track, then after that it's all about driving style and adjusting the car to match your driving style. Oh by the way, you missed the F1 smackdown, later that day. "
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Old 08-16-2010, 10:35 PM   #2279
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robk, thanks for your reply. Gives me some things to try. I have got a soft flex plate coming so I will see if that makes a diffrence, might also try the link kind of front suspension.
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Old 08-23-2010, 01:35 AM   #2280
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Default Tamiya rubbers for F103?

Hey guys, can anybody post the part number for Tamiya rubber tires for the F103?

Thanks.
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