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Old 09-13-2008, 02:24 AM   #196
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rxsevengt - I am running the CF-01 (push rod suspension) in the upcoming F1 Builder's Cup and I was just wondering how your diff is holding up. No matter what I do, the diff just wants to come loose after just a few minutes Any tips that you can offer up would be greatly appreciated
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Old 09-13-2008, 02:53 AM   #197
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For F103 foam tire discount now !
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Old 09-13-2008, 03:19 AM   #198
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Hi K_Spec_RC,
I had a little bit of slip initially, But I started using CAT (Caterpillar, Heavy Machinery Company) Desert Gold Grease and it seems to have fixed the problem. CAT Part number is 129-1937 for the Australian Spec Cartridge, Any CAT dealer should be able to grab the equivalent part number for you though. It's a very thick and tacky grease though, but seems to work quite well.
I run my diff at 3/4 of a turn loose from full tight, Maybe try replacing the rear wheel nuts as the nylock might be a bit old and the nut could be working loose?
Hope this helps, Best of luck for the builders cup!

edit: I was just thinking and maybe try replacing the diff balls and drive plates, and the spring washers also. Aside from that, I can't think of anything else that would make it come loose?

Cheers
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Old 09-13-2008, 06:57 AM   #199
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Hi Aaron,

New products coming this week too from Japan.

i race the Cross only with rubber.
like the realistic shmootness better +more steering.

still building some types but hate build one of my private collection bought the last couple of months some genuine body sets.
check here
http://www.the-border.com/product.ph...cat=617&page=1
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Old 09-13-2008, 01:26 PM   #200
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Thanks for you're advice, I was wondering if thicker grease would help. I'll be sure to give that a shot.
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Old 09-13-2008, 02:53 PM   #201
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Monday have New TRG Front Medium slick tire & body shell ... parts arrive !
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Old 09-13-2008, 08:18 PM   #202
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Back on topic:

I have both F103RMs built. I've trimmed up one of the M bodies unpainted just to check clearances. I had to reposition some of the wiring, the receiver and the capacitor for the Novak GBR and now everything in front of the rear pod looks and fits great. Now for the bad news. The soldering tab on the Novak motor is in the way. The body is sitting about 1/4 inch high in the back. I'm debating on cutting a chunk out of the back. I'll lose some appearance, but the body will be more functional if its sitting lower on the chassis.

I'm looking for options on this one. All opinions from anyone running a brushless F1 would be appreciated.

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Old 09-14-2008, 06:48 AM   #203
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I'm running brushless, but I'm using a Tekin R1/632 motor. Yes it hits the body, I just went 1 hole up on the body mounts, since I didnt want cut the body.
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Old 09-14-2008, 10:52 AM   #204
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What's blocking the wires and solder tabs on the motor from being laid down forward within the pod? (I don't have a 103, so I'm just surmising here)
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Old 09-14-2008, 11:53 AM   #205
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Most F1 bodies come over the motor. The wires from the Brushless motor are interfering with the body's layout. He said that he rased it one up, but now the body is riding higher than the chassis.
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Old 09-15-2008, 07:25 AM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe View Post
What's blocking the wires and solder tabs on the motor from being laid down forward within the pod? (I don't have a 103, so I'm just surmising here)
The motor itself has an external soldering tab. It sticks out about 3/8" straight up out of the back of the pod. The pod itself is more a less a small box. It is completely enclosed and engineered to fit the axle and the standard Mabuchi/Johnson silver can motor and thats about it. If I rotated the motor forward, it would come in contact with the front of the rear pod. To the rear is the axle, again only millimeters away.

I can mount the body on the very last rear hole of the mounting post without forcing it down. The body looks parallel to the chassis, but it will take away the effectiveness of the rear wing if its that high. I could rework the body to fit right, but then its not protecting the motor and wiring. I think an older body might work well. One that has a bigger motor cover, like 80's McLaren or Ferrari. I'll keep you all posted.
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Old 09-15-2008, 08:39 AM   #207
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The F1-08 body should give you the clearance at the rear also, It juts right up at the rear and finishes just before the axle. It's a big job to cut and paint though...

Wings just waiting on stickers now, electrics need a good tidy up though

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Old 09-15-2008, 12:09 PM   #208
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I've been eyeing up that F1-08 body from Chevron Models(run it through babelfish.yahoo.com with an Japanese to English conversion). I'd like to see a close up of the body on the kit with the rear wing off if someone could pull that off. From the angle shots I've seen, it looks like there is clearance though. Seems the body bumps up and there is actualy some sort of winglet or air damn at the tail end of the lexan allowing more space.
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Old 09-15-2008, 11:41 PM   #209
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So, what Hop-up have you guys put into your 103s? Here is a small, but growing list I have for mine.

Tech Racing Alloy Tie Rod Set
Tech Racing Alloy Motor Mount Plate
Tech racing Alloy Bearing Mount
Kawada Frication Auto Adjuster
Kawada Ball Suspension (waiting)
Tamiya TRF Damper
Tamiya Long Carbon Upper Deck (Not Installed)
TGR Racing Slick Front Tires
TGR Racing Slick Rear Tires
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Old 09-16-2008, 06:36 AM   #210
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On order: Tamiya adjustable turnbuckle set. Tamiya 2 piece aluminum servo mount. Cross premounted tires, Blue and Green compound for practice. Front and rear wing sets.

Still need: Tamiya tire and rim spares (not sure about tires when it comes to TCS)

I'm suddenly having delusions of running it with the silver can and 17T pinion. I'm in the process of waiting for LRP Quantum Sport Pros for the cars to put them back within the rules. I have LRPs in my son's and daughters T4's and like them. I'll save the brushless gear for something a little more sophisticated. I've been eyeing up the MLP and Cross F1 variations for something a little hotter to play around with later. In the mean time, I need to break in my silver cans to get them ready. (light machine oil, distilled water, com drops, AA batteries and a fan blade and some time.)
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