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Old 05-01-2009, 09:15 AM   #1936
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Anyone know what is the kit F103R (15th Anniv.) foam tires shoring..? I don't really need to know the #...just want to know their front are medium and rear are soft...or something else..thanks.
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Old 05-01-2009, 03:05 PM   #1937
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I am using the kit 103rm T bar with 2 washers front and O ring rear. I set it as what I read from this thread, hopefully I did it the right way. Front tightened until snug, and bar cannot move side to side. Then tighten rear until it can just barely move under some force. By loosening the diff and slipping a little, I am a little better, as long as I am not too trigger happy. I understand that this is a compromise as I am using the kit med rear foams, but still spin out sometimes. I got this kit used and it has a 3 Racing oil damper on the rear and aluminum on 4 sides motor mount. I think the kit comes with the L body (with the high nose?) It has adjustable rear wing, should I adjust it to the higher downforce inclined position? I am using silver can with stock gearing.

Any advice is appreciated!
If you are racing on asphalt, have you tried o rings front and rear?
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Old 05-01-2009, 08:21 PM   #1938
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That sounds like my setup. im running with shim front and o ring rear.

Try it with the oring up front to like robk mentioned. If that dosnt work try a heavy shock oil in the center shock. around 60wt with 1 hole piston. We have found that works really good on asphalt.
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Old 05-02-2009, 01:45 AM   #1939
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If you are racing on asphalt, have you tried o rings front and rear?
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That sounds like my setup. im running with shim front and o ring rear.

Try it with the oring up front to like robk mentioned. If that dosnt work try a heavy shock oil in the center shock. around 60wt with 1 hole piston. We have found that works really good on asphalt.
Thanks guys! I tried the 2 o-ring setup today and it was much more consistent and easier to drive!! Still spin out occasionally but I think that's my skill, or lack of it! I may try a heavier shock oil, and see what happens next time. I only have the Tamiya clear oil that came with my CVA shocks from another kit, I think it's #900, I can try that with 2 or 3 hole piston for the same effect?
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Old 05-03-2009, 05:55 AM   #1940
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Originally Posted by stocker View Post
Thanks guys! I tried the 2 o-ring setup today and it was much more consistent and easier to drive!! Still spin out occasionally but I think that's my skill, or lack of it! I may try a heavier shock oil, and see what happens next time. I only have the Tamiya clear oil that came with my CVA shocks from another kit, I think it's #900, I can try that with 2 or 3 hole piston for the same effect?

You can change the oil in your shock but you might want to play with the "T" bar first.
I run the spacer up front and "O" ring in the back. The front screw is tight. and then i tighten down the rear screw and back it off a turn. Do a few laps and if it still dosent have the grip in the rear you need loosen it some more and do a few more laps. If it under steers then tighten it a bit. A half turn can make a world of difference. Just carry a screw driver in your back pocket.

I also run the friction shock on my car. Most people run an oil shock but it dosent make as much as a difference as you might think. The "T" bar does most of the work.

Good luck
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Old 05-03-2009, 12:28 PM   #1941
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about the T-bar first ...
I recently bought an f103 second hand and it had the T-bar-connection with the "ball's" in stead of a screw and O-rings, if you see what I mean (the MA13-part on the drawing)



Can these "balls" be adjusted as well, or do I need to find the standard parts and mount the T-bar with the O-rings as it originally was?
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Old 05-03-2009, 01:54 PM   #1942
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Decided to focus on 4wd touringcars, so I'm selling my newly build F103RM with M-type body. It has almost all Tamiya hopups you can imagine...

Check http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ya-f103rm.html
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Old 05-04-2009, 03:55 AM   #1943
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low_E View Post
about the T-bar first ...
I recently bought an f103 second hand and it had the T-bar-connection with the "ball's" in stead of a screw and O-rings, if you see what I mean (the MA13-part on the drawing)

Can these "balls" be adjusted as well, or do I need to find the standard parts and mount the T-bar with the O-rings as it originally was?
You can put screws through the E4 parts to act as tweak screws. They just need to be long enough to reach the "T" bar. This will do untill you get the standard "O" ring set up. You then adjust how far the "T" bar moves by adjusting the newly added screws.
The "O" ring set up is much easier to live with. The "O" system and a long upper deck really helps the make the F103 enjoyable. Did you get a upper deck with your car?
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Old 05-04-2009, 06:01 AM   #1944
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nope, no upper deck, but I bought one and planned to mount it this week, as I am certain it will make the car much stiffer..

Could someone tell me which parts (tam-numbers) I would need to mount the T-bar with the O-rings?
Is it tam50655 or are there other parts possible?


I have yet another question.
There are parts with which you can alter the height of the rear wheels: Parts S1, S2 and S3 on this picture



How do these, or how does the height of the car influences the car-behaviour?
SHould I just go for "as low as possible"?
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Old 05-04-2009, 06:58 AM   #1945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low_E View Post
nope, no upper deck, but I bought one and planned to mount it this week, as I am certain it will make the car much stiffer..

Could someone tell me which parts (tam-numbers) I would need to mount the T-bar with the O-rings?
Is it tam50655 or are there other parts possible?

I have yet another question.
There are parts with which you can alter the height of the rear wheels: Parts S1, S2 and S3 on this picture

How do these, or how does the height of the car influences the car-behaviour?
SHould I just go for "as low as possible"?
Glad to hear you have a long top deck. Lots of people get the F103RM and without the long top deck and with out the "O" ring type suspension it make sit a bit of a handful to drive.

The parts fo the "O" ring mount is the F103 D Parts. 50655 or SP-655 is the correct parts,same parts two part numbers. This came with the F103RM but was not used in the build up. You might check and see if you got the parts when you bought the car. You also need two lock nuts for the screws and the "O" rings themselves.

For the S parts just buy the complete gear box. SP-1243 or 51243. Its labeled as the F103GT gear box now but its the same parts. You will want a spare gear box anyway the bearing holders on the left side blow out and the friction damper plate mount also likes to break off.

As far as what spacer to use you should adjust the ride height of the rear as your tires wear down. Tires wear down gear box goes up.New tires gear box goes down.
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Old 05-05-2009, 02:58 AM   #1946
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Originally Posted by bakaguyjean View Post
You can change the oil in your shock but you might want to play with the "T" bar first.
I run the spacer up front and "O" ring in the back. The front screw is tight. and then i tighten down the rear screw and back it off a turn. Do a few laps and if it still dosent have the grip in the rear you need loosen it some more and do a few more laps. If it under steers then tighten it a bit. A half turn can make a world of difference. Just carry a screw driver in your back pocket.

I also run the friction shock on my car. Most people run an oil shock but it dosent make as much as a difference as you might think. The "T" bar does most of the work.

Good luck
Thanks for the tips, will try these out. Got a question though, how tight is your front? And how loose can the rear be, can it be having slop side to side?
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Old 05-05-2009, 06:02 AM   #1947
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Thanks for the tips, will try these out. Got a question though, how tight is your front? And how loose can the rear be, can it be having slop side to side?
I use the Black springs up front with a 2MM spacer. This is a hard setting,My front tires are 35 shore.
My "T" bar front screw is very tight. and the rear screw gets adjusted to the track surface. My rear "T" bar screw currently is very loose but the "T" bar does not move side to side. One thing you might check as you do have a used car is to see if you rear "T" bar screw hole on the "T" bar is worn out. This can cause your "T" bar to move side to side.
My rear tires are 25 shore.

One other thing to think about with the rear "T" bar screw is if you are running Lipo. When i use a lipo which is lighter the rear screw gets back off a bit more so i get rear grip back in the chassis.

Also I usally do not use any tire additive. This is why i use the 25 shore tires in the rear.They are very soft,most people use a 30 shore tire with some additive where is run at.

Did you get the "O" ring set up allready?
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Old 05-05-2009, 08:10 AM   #1948
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I bought some of the premounted foam tires for a TCS race, but I won't be able to go. I've only ran them two packs each. If anyone is interested, pm me, 35 shipped to the lower 48 each set.
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Old 05-05-2009, 09:10 AM   #1949
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Originally Posted by bakaguyjean View Post
I use the Black springs up front with a 2MM spacer. This is a hard setting,My front tires are 35 shore.
My "T" bar front screw is very tight. and the rear screw gets adjusted to the track surface. My rear "T" bar screw currently is very loose but the "T" bar does not move side to side. One thing you might check as you do have a used car is to see if you rear "T" bar screw hole on the "T" bar is worn out. This can cause your "T" bar to move side to side.
My rear tires are 25 shore.

One other thing to think about with the rear "T" bar screw is if you are running Lipo. When i use a lipo which is lighter the rear screw gets back off a bit more so i get rear grip back in the chassis.

Also I usally do not use any tire additive. This is why i use the 25 shore tires in the rear.They are very soft,most people use a 30 shore tire with some additive where is run at.

Did you get the "O" ring set up allready?
Yes, I have the 2 o ring setup now. I think the surface is a little dusty this evening so I am having spin outs again despite it being much better 3 days ago. I feel my diff is already quite loose and I'll be wearing out the balls pre-maturely if I go any looser?

My T bar does move side to side when the screw is not so tight, that means it's worn? I recall there are 2 different t bars Tamiya made?

I am using the stock foams, do you know what shore they are? I have a feeling the stock rears may have too little grip for the low grip asphalt I am driving on. I am also running Lipos. On this surface, even 4WD TCs rear can come loose sometimes, we run Sorex40r on TCs as the weather is quite hot. What tyres do you recommend for my F103, Zen? Or even should I go for TRG rubbers ($) in my application?

Thanks again for your help again!

Last edited by stocker; 05-05-2009 at 09:23 AM.
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Old 05-05-2009, 09:24 AM   #1950
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can anyone hook me up with a right wheel mount like this http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-f10...th=595_744_888 or the 3racing 2mm offset one like this http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-f10...th=595_744_888 thanks pm me or email me.
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