R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-17-2009, 10:20 AM   #1546
Tech Regular
 
idwurks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 279
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to idwurks Send a message via Yahoo to idwurks
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by silverhkswrx View Post
is that the rule of thumb with foamies? abrasive= stiffer foam to make the tires last longer?

i run on a non-prepped surface that is pretty smooth.

Generally, if the surface bite is low, you want to run a softer tire for performance. If you have a very HIGH bite surface, people tend to run harder tires to get them to last a bit longer.
__________________
www.Idwurks.com | www.od12.com | www.TopRacingUSA.com
idwurks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2009, 11:21 AM   #1547
Tech Champion
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,580
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by idwurks View Post
Generally, if the surface bite is low, you want to run a softer tire for performance. If you have a very HIGH bite surface, people tend to run harder tires to get them to last a bit longer.
+1 Exactly.
__________________
John Higgins former student of The Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driving School. The "Team Principal".
liljohn1064 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2009, 08:21 PM   #1548
Tech Elite
 
yodace's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Caleb
Posts: 2,497
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

what does standing the shock up more do for tuning? compared to the more layed down postion?
yodace is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2009, 08:57 PM   #1549
Tech Regular
 
idwurks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 279
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to idwurks Send a message via Yahoo to idwurks
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by yodace View Post
what does standing the shock up more do for tuning? compared to the more layed down postion?
Having the shock more horizontal makes the shock compress more easily and standing it up more stiffens the car. I think that laying it down is probably good for more rear bite or bumpier tracks. And making it stand up more vertically makes the rear stiffer, giving you more steering but making the car more lively on rough surfaces.

I dont really see any time where you would want to run it more vertically. The car probably rotates very well already.
__________________
www.Idwurks.com | www.od12.com | www.TopRacingUSA.com
idwurks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2009, 02:27 AM   #1550
Tech Regular
 
RossoTorro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Euro-Thrash
Posts: 400
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hello

We run indoors on carpet track, we use Zen F1 tires on our cars.
I used to run 35/38 shore upfront and 35 shore rear.

The car used to have massive grip, saused with Red Dot Trinity. So much infact that the tires almost came off the rims, had to reglue them from time to time!
But lately the car has been slow and lack of grip with both new and old tires.
Weird thing is, i just changed my worn out tires. Did not change anything on set-up!
I tried several different things. Both position of damper, change oil in damper, different spring rates front/rear, different shore (softer), soft t-bar, carbon t-bar from 3racing, link type front suspension, standard front suspension. I am running the o-ring batterycase with washers upfront. Tested the ballmount battery also, but it made the car lift front inner wheel!

Anyone have set up tips?
Track is smooth, narrow and pretty short and clean.
Gear ratio we all run is 20t/104t and EzRun 3000kv's. We tried running with Sport tuned but the heat killed them off after only 3 battery packs.

I just don't get it, i am 1 sec behind the rest now. And i used to be upfront before i got into this trouble with my car.
RossoTorro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2009, 02:32 AM   #1551
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 538
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

@RossoTorro, can you show a pic of how your F103 looks with the EzRun3000? thanks! Sorry, I can't help you with your problem, I am a F103 newbie.
stocker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2009, 06:15 AM   #1552
Tech Regular
 
RossoTorro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Euro-Thrash
Posts: 400
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Here is 1 of my F103's.

Got 3 of them, a F101 Lotus 102B and 4 Group C cars.

The EzRun 3000kv runs without the fan, have checked temp and they get only warm and not hot. Don't need the fan it seems!
Attached Thumbnails
TAMIYA F103 RM-dsc01329.jpg   TAMIYA F103 RM-dsc01330.jpg   TAMIYA F103 RM-dsc01331.jpg   TAMIYA F103 RM-dsc01335.jpg  
RossoTorro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2009, 06:39 AM   #1553
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 538
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Thanks! I suppose it doesn't interfere with the read pod/suspension movement since you are successful with it. Good luck with your car!
stocker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2009, 07:58 AM   #1554
Tech Champion
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,580
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RossoTorro View Post
Hello

We run indoors on carpet track, we use Zen F1 tires on our cars.
I used to run 35/38 shore upfront and 35 shore rear.

The car used to have massive grip, saused with Red Dot Trinity. So much infact that the tires almost came off the rims, had to reglue them from time to time!
But lately the car has been slow and lack of grip with both new and old tires.
Weird thing is, i just changed my worn out tires. Did not change anything on set-up!
I tried several different things. Both position of damper, change oil in damper, different spring rates front/rear, different shore (softer), soft t-bar, carbon t-bar from 3racing, link type front suspension, standard front suspension. I am running the o-ring batterycase with washers upfront. Tested the ballmount battery also, but it made the car lift front inner wheel!

Anyone have set up tips?
Track is smooth, narrow and pretty short and clean.
Gear ratio we all run is 20t/104t and EzRun 3000kv's. We tried running with Sport tuned but the heat killed them off after only 3 battery packs.

I just don't get it, i am 1 sec behind the rest now. And i used to be upfront before i got into this trouble with my car.
Check your differential. Maybe its too tight.
__________________
John Higgins former student of The Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driving School. The "Team Principal".
liljohn1064 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2009, 10:34 AM   #1555
Tech Regular
 
RossoTorro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Euro-Thrash
Posts: 400
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I run it loose, just to the point it's not slipping. Tried many settings on diff.
Forgot to say, running black springs upfront, yellow on damper and medium on friction plates with soft grease.

Front screw on t-bar is tight and rear is medium.
RossoTorro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2009, 12:23 PM   #1556
Tech Champion
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,580
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RossoTorro View Post
I run it loose, just to the point it's not slipping. Tried many settings on diff.
Forgot to say, running black springs upfront, yellow on damper and medium on friction plates with soft grease.

Front screw on t-bar is tight and rear is medium.
Does the car roll free? Maybe a bad bearing. I made the mistake of not leaving any space between the axle bearing and the pod plate and it made my car run very bad. How does it react to throttle?
__________________
John Higgins former student of The Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driving School. The "Team Principal".
liljohn1064 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2009, 12:28 PM   #1557
Tech Fanatic
 
silverhkswrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tampa, Fl.
Posts: 988
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to silverhkswrx Send a message via Skype™ to silverhkswrx
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RossoTorro View Post
I run it loose, just to the point it's not slipping. Tried many settings on diff.
Forgot to say, running black springs upfront, yellow on damper and medium on friction plates with soft grease.

Front screw on t-bar is tight and rear is medium.
may i ask how "loose" you run it, and how do you determine? i tighten mine all the way, and it rolls nice but little control. if i back out the nut a turn,it slips like crazy... i just replaced the balls and am waiting on the diff to come in. the diff balls were very bad. so bad that they wouldnt roll. they would bump.
__________________
SpeedPassion 17.5R powered TRF417X
My son owns: Team Associated RC18R2
(RC18B2 converted to a RC18R)

http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm
silverhkswrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2009, 03:56 PM   #1558
Tech Regular
 
RossoTorro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Euro-Thrash
Posts: 400
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

The car rolls very well, changed bearings both in front and rear pod. The 1280 ones in diff where fine. On trottle it's fast, just as fast if not faster than my TA05MS with Mamba Max 5700kv with 27T/104T gearing.

I don't have any slop between axle bearing and pod plate, i normally squeeze the parts togheter when tighting. I will try running with a little slop there.

The diff i have replaced the bearing with trust bearing option. Only thing i have done is take out a cone washer and add one of the old thicker washer from old 3 piece trust bearing. It worked like a charm before, was one of the fastet car on track with it. Will try to build it as manual says and test tomorrow. Done a rebuild on diff also, watersanded the diff plates with 1200 grit paper to remove any trace of wear, added Tamiya's Tungsten carbide balls in it. Use only high quality Mobil1 grease and not the crap Tamiya sends out.
RossoTorro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2009, 06:12 PM   #1559
Tech Champion
 
robk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Posts: 7,586
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RossoTorro View Post
Done a rebuild on diff also, watersanded the diff plates with 1200 grit paper to remove any trace of wear, added Tamiya's Tungsten carbide balls in it. Use only high quality Mobil1 grease and not the crap Tamiya sends out.
The diff will lock better if you use 400 or 600 paper. You might want to try associated or corally diff grease. Not sure if Mobile 1 grease has the right properties for a diff.
__________________
A mutually re-enforcing cascade of failure

"Failior [sic] crowns enterprise." Robert Goddard

I-Lap Scoring Systems http://www.rclapcounter.com/
robk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2009, 08:50 PM   #1560
Tech Elite
 
BP SHADOW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: In the LAB paintin' bodies!!!!
Posts: 2,287
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RossoTorro View Post
The car rolls very well, changed bearings both in front and rear pod. The 1280 ones in diff where fine. On trottle it's fast, just as fast if not faster than my TA05MS with Mamba Max 5700kv with 27T/104T gearing.

I don't have any slop between axle bearing and pod plate, i normally squeeze the parts togheter when tighting. I will try running with a little slop there.

The diff i have replaced the bearing with trust bearing option. Only thing i have done is take out a cone washer and add one of the old thicker washer from old 3 piece trust bearing. It worked like a charm before, was one of the fastet car on track with it. Will try to build it as manual says and test tomorrow. Done a rebuild on diff also, watersanded the diff plates with 1200 grit paper to remove any trace of wear, added Tamiya's Tungsten carbide balls in it. Use only high quality Mobil1 grease and not the crap Tamiya sends out.
Mobil 1 red is probably ok for the thrust bearing, but not as diff lube, that may be why the car is slowing down. If the grip in the track comes up, and you make more bite, you may be slipping the diff out of the corners, loading up the motor which will build more heat, killing the magnets. You may want to go to a harder shore tire to free up the chassis a bit. I would build the diff to the instructions if using the one piece bearing, build it the way its supposed to be built. Ive noticed that Tamiya is pretty thorough with their instructions, if you build it like that they run pretty good out of the box.
__________________
I'll hit the brakes he'll go right by
http://f1rclab.com
http://f1rclab.mybigcommerce.com
BP SHADOW is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
tamiya f103 gt madmiki Australia For Sale/Trade 1 02-04-2009 12:13 AM
looking for a Tamiya F103 GT level-4 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 6 05-22-2008 04:56 PM
Tamiya F103 GT heavy Australia For Sale/Trade 3 05-15-2006 02:49 AM
WTB: Tamiya buggy & Tamiya f103 stuff rays_tt Australia Wanted to Buy 2 04-20-2006 07:10 AM
Tamiya F103 or F103 Parts MM-F1 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 4 04-24-2004 04:14 PM


Tags
rasta scbc


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:21 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net