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Old 06-26-2008, 06:02 PM   #16
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HoaRC - lock the front diff & all should be good.

Mooshu - in some areas it does lack tunability, but you can tweak some areas. the arms you can fit washers to eliminate most of the slop, on the carbon chassis, you can fit a stiffner to the steering posts to eliminate flex, little things like that make a somewhat difference!
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Old 07-11-2008, 03:08 AM   #17
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What's your FDR? What kind of FDR is good for silver can drifting?
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Old 07-11-2008, 05:30 PM   #18
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silvercan i would use as low as you can go...
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Old 07-11-2008, 08:16 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drift Demon View Post
HoaRC - lock the front diff & all should be good.

Mooshu - in some areas it does lack tunability, but you can tweak some areas. the arms you can fit washers to eliminate most of the slop, on the carbon chassis, you can fit a stiffner to the steering posts to eliminate flex, little things like that make a somewhat difference!
Looks like a big cause of slop is on the ball which the screw to secure the hub. The cavity containing the ball seems to wear out and the ball becomes loose even when the screw is fully tightened?

The steering can be tightened by shimming, perhaps the aluminium ball bearing set will be better?
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Old 07-12-2008, 12:57 AM   #20
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I have what i guess can be called as an oddball setup.

ball diffs in both rear and front. the front's tighter than the rear. if you spin the rear with your hand it would feel very loose.

I'm also running a t-bang type-m motor with normally a tekin FX-R esc (sent in for repairs and a GTB is taking over the duties).

Chassis is a Corally RDX.

With this setup I can enter a corner and give it a shot of throttle to pull the tail around to make pretty much any turn that comes my way.

You can try running LDPE pipe if you can find it. it will give a little more grip on the asphalt than ABS does.
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Old 07-12-2008, 07:31 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stocker View Post
Looks like a big cause of slop is on the ball which the screw to secure the hub. The cavity containing the ball seems to wear out and the ball becomes loose even when the screw is fully tightened?

The steering can be tightened by shimming, perhaps the aluminium ball bearing set will be better?
I think that's exactly the problem. You have to replace either the arms or the cups, because SOMETHING is going to wear out. The ball in one of the lower front arms of my TT-01 was so worn out, that as a result, the lower arm sagged and that side of the car effectively was lower than the other side.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabin View Post
I have what i guess can be called as an oddball setup.

ball diffs in both rear and front. the front's tighter than the rear. if you spin the rear with your hand it would feel very loose.

I'm also running a t-bang type-m motor with normally a tekin FX-R esc (sent in for repairs and a GTB is taking over the duties).

Chassis is a Corally RDX.

With this setup I can enter a corner and give it a shot of throttle to pull the tail around to make pretty much any turn that comes my way.

You can try running LDPE pipe if you can find it. it will give a little more grip on the asphalt than ABS does.
That is an interesting setup. However with the tighter front, the front end would be more predictable, which makes sense...but you must have to turn in before giving it throttle? Do you have much understeer with that setup?
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Old 07-12-2008, 05:34 PM   #22
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Questions??

hey, everyone what's uppp.

does the springs give better drifts?

i use stiff rear springs with a midium up front.

does a softer spring in the front or rear work better? or doesn't matter?
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Old 07-12-2008, 08:24 PM   #23
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yes sir it matters.

A softer spring will give you more mechanical grip, but if it is too soft you will feel like the steering is muddy or slow. Usually people will say that a stiffer spring in the rear helps detract traction from the rear, and gives more to the front. However many people also drift with the same springs all around. It depends on your driving preference, and is something you have to experiment yourself with.

What kind of shocks/springs do you have? Are you looking to buy some?
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Old 07-13-2008, 12:54 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooshu Beef View Post
That is an interesting setup. However with the tighter front, the front end would be more predictable, which makes sense...but you must have to turn in before giving it throttle? Do you have much understeer with that setup?
I tried to get it to understeer as much as I could. there is very little, if any. I'm usually giving it throttle for the entire session and when I enter a corner I'm giving it about 15-20% throttle. just a light touch is all it takes.

As I'm going through the corner, I will want the back end to rotate more, and as such I give it the beans.
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:28 AM   #25
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Guys,

Thanks for the informative stuffs.

Did anyone tried a Diff at the front and a One-way at the rear setup for drifting?

What will it feel like on the entry, mid corner and exit?

Advice will be appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:39 PM   #26
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Im using TRF dampers with the white medium springs they came with. The spring adjuster is wound down about 1mm front & about 2mm rear. Ive always used the same springs all round. I did try the springs that come with the Square TT01 drift setting kit, & they worked great.

The rear diff is locked with the square diff locker, & the front i used fuel tubing for the LSD effect. the front seems to be a little looser so i think some of the fuel tubing has broke. Im going to try some thick car grease in the front to see if it will give me an LSD effect.

Never used a front oneway, but im considering the one way shaft to see how it feels with my setup, my drift track has some corners that requires tight turning, so the one way shaft might come in handy...
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Old 07-13-2008, 03:45 PM   #27
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hey, what's up! well i use team associated shocks with threaded bodys and i have the set of springes from 15pounds all the way to 40pound springes. but yeah i have stiff in the rear I'm going to switch to soft in the rear and see what happends. i use yokomo abs all around and integy gun metal rims on a 1986 toyota corrola body. i could tell you what i have on my tc3 chassis but its to much to name


what's your setup?




Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooshu Beef View Post
yes sir it matters.

A softer spring will give you more mechanical grip, but if it is too soft you will feel like the steering is muddy or slow. Usually people will say that a stiffer spring in the rear helps detract traction from the rear, and gives more to the front. However many people also drift with the same springs all around. It depends on your driving preference, and is something you have to experiment yourself with.

What kind of shocks/springs do you have? Are you looking to buy some?
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Old 07-13-2008, 04:33 PM   #28
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you said pvc rear tires? what are you running in the front? you have to use the same type tires all around the car to get good drifts. pvc if perfect for first time drifters and abs offer more grip for faster drifts

Quote:
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Help!: tt-01 spins out..has locked rear diffs, 27t motor, pvc rear tires..how to stop spin outs
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Old 07-14-2008, 12:38 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pole_position View Post
Did anyone tried a Diff at the front and a One-way at the rear setup for drifting?

What will it feel like on the entry, mid corner and exit?

Advice will be appreciated.

Thanks!
I tried it using my RDX. entry and mid are pretty good, but exit's too hairy. it feels a lot like a tail heavy car with a spool.
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Old 07-14-2008, 01:12 AM   #30
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Questions??

if you put a one way in the rear your car will be front wheel drive and four wheel brakes. it will NOT drift at all with a one way in the rear.


Quote:
Originally Posted by pole_position View Post
Guys,

Thanks for the informative stuffs.

Did anyone tried a Diff at the front and a One-way at the rear setup for drifting?

What will it feel like on the entry, mid corner and exit?

Advice will be appreciated.

Thanks!
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