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Old 10-05-2012, 05:28 PM   #811
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need some work

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Old 10-15-2012, 10:20 AM   #812
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I was wondering if anybody else had problems with the steering servo and the mounts. I can't get anything to line up correctly. I don't want to drill into the chassis for a number of reasons, one of them is I don't have a drill press and I was hoping you guys or girls had an ideas i could use. All the help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:37 AM   #813
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Originally Posted by tlb987 View Post
I was wondering if anybody else had problems with the steering servo and the mounts. I can't get anything to line up correctly. I don't want to drill into the chassis for a number of reasons, one of them is I don't have a drill press and I was hoping you guys or girls had an ideas i could use. All the help would be greatly appreciated.
The stock chassis is designed for Futaba servos. I ran JR servos and just shoe goo'd the servo directly to the chassis. Plenty strong and easily removable if needed. There is no reason to drill more holes in the chassis for different servos.
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:46 AM   #814
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The stock chassis is designed for Futaba servos. I ran JR servos and just shoe goo'd the servo directly to the chassis. Plenty strong and easily removable if needed. There is no reason to drill more holes in the chassis for different servos.
+1

Most of the fast guys shoe goo their servos even if the mounts line up. This reduces the chance of a trim change in a crash.

I really wish AE would update the 10R5 with the 12R5.2 pod and damper tubes. They would just need a new lower chassis plate,a Lipo bridge and some stand offs. Without all the holes the lower chassis would cost less to produce. All the rest of the parts would stock items from the 12R5.2.
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:46 AM   #815
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Weird as i have a normall servo in there without problems.
I use TC5 servo posts and a DS1015 servo.
Mind you tho that my chassis(new) came with 2 mounting holes direct next to each other on one side.
If you don't have that then use a Savox SH1257MG servo.

regards Roy



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Originally Posted by tlb987 View Post
I was wondering if anybody else had problems with the steering servo and the mounts. I can't get anything to line up correctly. I don't want to drill into the chassis for a number of reasons, one of them is I don't have a drill press and I was hoping you guys or girls had an ideas i could use. All the help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:56 AM   #816
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I tried putting in an AE servo and it didn't work I will try a savox I have them in some of my other vehicles. Thank You!
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:57 AM   #817
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AE, I would buy this if you made it with the 12R5.2 damper tubes and a center Lipo option. I think this 12R5.2 Lipo setup would be better on asphalt/low grip carpet and the center/forward would be better on high grip carpet.
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:07 AM   #818
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So I was thinking about going the shoe goo route. You guys that have tried it are positive it really works? My servo won't fall out mid race?

Last edited by tlb987; 10-16-2012 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:30 AM   #819
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So I was thinking about going the shoe goo route. you guys that have tried it are positive it really works. My servo won't fall out mid race.
Clean your chassis and your servo with motor spray and a paper towel. Put a thin layer on the bottom of the servo so just a tiny amount of goo will squeeze out around the perimeter of the servo. Let it dry 2 hours and you are good to go. You could obliterate your car and the servo will stay put.

If you want it to come off just disconnect the links, twist the servo hard and it will pop off. Any remaining goo will pull off the servo and chassis cleanly. Shoo Goo is amazing stuff.
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:33 AM   #820
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So I was thinking about going the shoe goo route. You guys that have tried it are positive it really works? My servo won't fall out mid race?
Have no worries about the Shoe Goo thing. It is an ancient and respectable pan car servo mounting method. Just make sure both surfaces are clean, apply a single thin continuous layer, press into position, and let it dry overnight.

Any crash that jars it off the plate will simply make it easier to glue it to the new plate you'll be buying to replace the broken one. It's solid.
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:51 AM   #821
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Thank you for all the help I really appreciate it!!!!!
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:09 PM   #822
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Thank you for all the help I really appreciate it!!!!!
Another option which a lot of guys at my track do is use servo tape to lock the servo into position and them run a bead of shoe goo around the perimiter of the servo. Extremely secure and a little easier to remove the servo later on. Nothing wrong with just going the shoe goo route. Just wanted to present another option. Main thing is to make sure the surfaces are clean, as a few have already pointed out.
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:49 AM   #823
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Thanks again for the help. i have been running RC cars for a long time but, this is my first time I am going to try and race one.






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Old 10-17-2012, 11:05 AM   #824
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Still curious why the damPer tubes are so great. Its super easy to maintain the mono shock.
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:38 AM   #825
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Still curious why the damPer tubes are so great. Its super easy to maintain the mono shock.
I honestly found the mono shock system to be a big PITA! so nice to slide the tube out, clean and change the fluid. (less than 2 mins). also, I seem to get much finer results with tubes.
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