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Old 12-09-2011, 06:43 AM   #736
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Thanks Mark.

Am I reading previous posts correctly, that people have managed to use the 'side bars' instead of the side shock for the pod?

I find mine leaks quite often and removing it is a pain. The idea of the bars with grease on them is very appealing

Skiddins
I've never had any problems with the side shock leaking Skiddins!

It is easy to cross thread the plastic shock top if you try to force it onto the metal shock body before it's straight. You also need to get the o-ring as low as possible before putting that shock top on...I run a small allen driver around and around the plastic spacer and get all the excess oil removed.

Best tip I heard to seat the shock top was to first rotate it slowly backwards. You'll feel a slight "click" as the two threads pass each other. And that's the time to start winding it in the correct way. If it doesn't screw in smoothly or isn't straight then on do it and start again.

There are side damper conversions...seen both one offs and some kits. Speak to Jason Butterfield about his DoRi5 chassis if you're interested

cheers
Mark
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Old 12-09-2011, 06:53 AM   #737
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Thanks Mark.

Am I reading previous posts correctly, that people have managed to use the 'side bars' instead of the side shock for the pod?

I find mine leaks quite often and removing it is a pain. The idea of the bars with grease on them is very appealing

Skiddins
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkBurgess View Post
I've never had any problems with the side shock leaking Skiddins!

It is easy to cross thread the plastic shock top if you try to force it onto the metal shock body before it's straight. You also need to get the o-ring as low as possible before putting that shock top on...I run a small allen driver around and around the plastic spacer and get all the excess oil removed.

Best tip I heard to seat the shock top was to first rotate it slowly backwards. You'll feel a slight "click" as the two threads pass each other. And that's the time to start winding it in the correct way. If it doesn't screw in smoothly or isn't straight then on do it and start again.

There are side damper conversions...seen both one offs and some kits. Speak to Jason Butterfield about his DoRi5 chassis if you're interested

cheers
Mark
12R5 shock build tips
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9531918-post2927.html
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Old 12-09-2011, 08:54 AM   #738
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Just dug my RC10R5 out of the cupboard with a view to running it for the first time in 18 months.

How are you guys securing your lipo's to prevent them moving during the race.
I used to use cell tape coming through the two outer '4-cell' holes but this never seemed to stop all the movement.

It's almost like we need different battery position pieces for the chassis.

Thanks
Skiddins
Take a looksy at the Rebel 12 battery brace that sits behind and slightly wraps around the battery. Then on the 10r5 where the back battery blocks are its the same width. You might have to countersink those holes just a bit. Its what I use along with tape and I never have problems with the battery comming loose and rubbing the links. Sometimes the braces do break from a hard hit or crash but for the most part for $2.00 there worh it.
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Old 12-09-2011, 09:03 AM   #739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Just dug my RC10R5 out of the cupboard with a view to running it for the first time in 18 months.

How are you guys securing your lipo's to prevent them moving during the race.
I used to use cell tape coming through the two outer '4-cell' holes but this never seemed to stop all the movement.

It's almost like we need different battery position pieces for the chassis.

Thanks
Skiddins
Servo tape lexan strips to the bottom of your lipo packs.
I cut the lexan a bit narrower than the width, and about half the length of the battery slots, that way you can move the lipo around for weight bias.

Lexan locks the cell from moving sideways, tape holds it for & aft.
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Old 12-09-2011, 09:12 AM   #740
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The Reedy packs I was using had bumps molded in the case to hold the battery in place.

My new packs do not have any so I stuck on small drawer bumpers. They fell off after a few heats and I never noticed any adverse effects from the battery moving 1 - 2mm from side to side. Now I just tape the battery in a go race. BTW, my lap times kept getting better as the bumpers fell of, maybe it helps that the battery shifts slightly.
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Old 12-10-2011, 01:43 AM   #741
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Default Ride height adjusters

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Originally Posted by Bumpy View Post
Why not just get these ones. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ight-Adjusters

I use them in my AE pan cars with no problems. They're great.

OKIDOKI ;-)
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Old 12-11-2011, 06:48 PM   #742
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Looking forward to running my 10R5 for the first time. Purchased it used and as an added bonus the clown who assembled it decided to take a SAE stainless screw kit and jam them up into metric holes. Now that I'm past that issue just rebuilding and waiting on electronics.

Quick question. Anybody running a JR3650 and does it center on the chassis with the Associated mounts? If not does anyone make mounts that will fit or is the solution just to shoe goo the servo down?

Thanks,
Chuck
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Old 12-11-2011, 10:27 PM   #743
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The JR will not mount correctly using the stock mounts. I don't know of a servo mount that will fix this. I just found a Futaba 9650 and it fits perfectly.
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Old 12-12-2011, 07:27 PM   #744
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Default Right side Hub

I have an old 10L2 car that I am thinking about making into a WGT car using some home made parts and some 1/12 scale stuff I have. I need some help with the right side diff hub, if you look in the pictures I am going to try and use a 1/12 scale rear pod with my 10L2 axle and diff. It is currently 1/4 in too wide and I would like to know what is the width of the right side hubs on the new 10R5 car?

My hub is 1.4" long or 36.5mm. Like I mentioned I am hoping you guys can help me out and see if anyone makes a hub that is between 1.1 - 1.15 or something close I can make work.

Thanks for the help!!!
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:06 PM   #745
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Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
The JR will not mount correctly using the stock mounts. I don't know of a servo mount that will fix this. I just found a Futaba 9650 and it fits perfectly.
Thanks Lonny.
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Old 12-22-2011, 10:52 PM   #746
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Old 12-23-2011, 05:07 AM   #747
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I am have problems with my left side hub loosening up. Is anyone else having this occurring too? I race oval also and having the same problem with the left side hub also. Both cars are R5
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Old 12-23-2011, 05:14 AM   #748
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Try changing the left hub to a IRS item.
These have 2 clamping screws and hold better.

regards Roy
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Old 12-23-2011, 05:57 AM   #749
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Originally Posted by rcgen View Post
I am have problems with my left side hub loosening up. Is anyone else having this occurring too? I race oval also and having the same problem with the left side hub also. Both cars are R5
I use a product that you can find in a bicycle shop it is a carbon fiber assembly compound. A little dab on the carbon axle will keep the hub in place without overtightening the screw or damaging anything.
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Old 12-23-2011, 06:13 AM   #750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcgen View Post
I am have problems with my left side hub loosening up. Is anyone else having this occurring too? I race oval also and having the same problem with the left side hub also. Both cars are R5
Now I never had a problem with mh LHS hub...but I know others that have.

+1 recommendation for the IRS LHS hub as a replacement. It uses two big screws to tighten the hub to the axle. Does need spacing out a fair bit, and I found the big diff cones were spot on to get the spacing right.

Hope that helps,
Mark
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