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Old 11-25-2011, 02:01 AM   #691
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- what is "inline axles"? Special AE part? If so, what partnumber?

Steering hub and axle set - in my experience they give more steering. AE parts use a different wheel bearing. Other pan car manufacturers also make in-line axle sets that use standard bearings. I can look up name and partnumbers over the weekend.

- as to short wheelbase. There are three holes on the arm mount plate. You mean you use the one most to the rear of the car?

I use the middle hole for "standard" wheel base.

- any polishing of upper hinge pin and king pin? Or otherwise?

I use a 1/8th inch reamer to smooth out the inside of the Bub. Polish the main king pin with fine wet and dry paper. And use the IRS alloy suspension pivot balls to replace the kit plastic ones.

- as to LiPo as far forward as possible: any use for the battery index, partnumber 4610? Or not used at all?

I run the battery locators at the back, and secure the Lipo forward using tape and a strategically placed weight.

- which body?

Protoform Sophia

- do you use the foam bumper?

I do yes...I see a number of cars that don't.

- how much caster?

I've been running as little as possible, but it is down to individual preferences.

- You say:"The rest of the setup is essentially kit".

I can post a full set up at some point, and photos of my car. Not in the right place to do that just now

- 890gr is including body? So race ready?

I have to add 10-35g to make the weight limit.

- using AE green slime on the O-rings of the shocks? Anything to say on leaking of the shocks?

Haven't needed it. Build them right and they won't leak.

- what pinion and spur, 48P or 64P?

64dp for me...pinion to get the mmpr rollout I need.

- chamfered edges of the chassisplate and CA on the edges?

Yes - smoothed out the chassis edges and sealed with CA. Rounded off aroung the front of the chassis and at the further point on the sides (bascially the bits most likely to hit the floor first don't have a hard square edge).

- using threadlock, and if so where? For instance bolts screwed in metal parts.

Don't use any threadlock...but do regularly check the screws under the chassis, and the four holding the suspension arms to their mounts.

- using grease on the kingpins for dampening effect?

Nope
- any upper eyelet mods needed? (with dremel)

- any steering block mods needed? (with dremel)

- standard pivot balls for front suspension or special teflon coated, for instance from IRS?

So there is more to think about, then we all thought of, now isn't it![/QUOTE]
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Old 11-25-2011, 02:18 AM   #692
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The AE inline axles need different sized front wheel bearings. A number of pan car suppliers also make inline axles that will take the standard wheel bearings, and are possibly a better choice.

I'm not in the right place to be able to check some names and part numbers...if you need them I can at some point over the weekend...
great, Thanks! I'll give the AE's a try and I think the front bearings on my CRC XL are the same size. We'll see, if not, Boca bearings, here i come.
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Old 11-25-2011, 07:40 AM   #693
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AE8443B Inline Alum Blue Axle
AE8441 Inline Steering Block
Uses 3/16" Bearings. Do you have a part number for this?
Are these different from the ones in the kit? If so, in what way?

They give more steering? I mean what is it that you actually notice in the handling characteristics of the car?
Other advantages?

Last edited by Kensei; 11-25-2011 at 08:02 AM.
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Old 11-25-2011, 07:57 AM   #694
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The AE inline axles need different sized front wheel bearings. A number of pan car suppliers also make inline axles that will take the standard wheel bearings, and are possibly a better choice.

I'm not in the right place to be able to check some names and part numbers...if you need them I can at some point over the weekend...

I need them.................
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Old 11-25-2011, 08:18 AM   #695
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Inline axles are primarily used for oval. You'll likely find inline WAY too responsive for road course racing.
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Old 11-25-2011, 08:24 AM   #696
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Inline axles are primarily used for oval. You'll likely find inline WAY too responsive for road course racing.
He hasn't even driven his yet but he wants to be sure it will be horrible on the track.

Hey, set it up as the instructions tell you out of the box and you're 95% of the way to the top. Make all these changes and you won't know what does what.

Do one change at a time and see what happens then go back or go forward.

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Old 11-25-2011, 07:03 PM   #697
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He hasn't even driven his yet but he wants to be sure it will be horrible on the track.

Hey, set it up as the instructions tell you out of the box and you're 95% of the way to the top. Make all these changes and you won't know what does what.

Do one change at a time and see what happens then go back or go forward.

This is the best advice. Build it as per the instructions, then start changing oils and springs and axles so YOU know what it does for YOU.
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Old 11-25-2011, 08:26 PM   #698
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He hasn't even driven his yet but he wants to be sure it will be horrible on the track.

Hey, set it up as the instructions tell you out of the box and you're 95% of the way to the top. Make all these changes and you won't know what does what.

Do one change at a time and see what happens then go back or go forward.

I followed his setup advice and my car was fast 1st time out. Finished 2nd to him in the points series
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Old 11-25-2011, 08:42 PM   #699
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I followed his setup advice and my car was fast 1st time out. Finished 2nd to him in the points series
Muchas gracias. I expect you to give me a real run this Sunday. He who makes the fewest mistakes wins.

Seriously, the cars are near box stock and just set up for our track. I'm sure that if we went to another track we'll have to tweak the set up a bit, but not by much.

Last edited by AreCee; 11-25-2011 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 11-25-2011, 11:23 PM   #700
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hey RBFixx, when you raised the front of the shock to clear the LIPO, did you raise the back also?
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Old 11-26-2011, 10:40 AM   #701
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hey RBFixx, when you raised the front of the shock to clear the LIPO, did you raise the back also?
Hi Lonny.

I tried a few different locations for the front & rear mount points on the center shock.

Best so far is no shims on the rear, and lowest hole up front.

By raising the front shock mount brace #4655 up 2mm, there is space to move the lipo forward an additional 2mm.

By no means am I suggesting that this setup is for everyone, I also agree starting with the kit setup is advisable.

This setup is just flirting with the edge of that setup a bit
Works really well at TQ.

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Old 11-26-2011, 10:59 AM   #702
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I forgot to say that before making ANY changes you should be driving consistent laps varied by only tenths of a second from lap to lap.
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Old 11-26-2011, 11:08 AM   #703
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Hi Lonny.

I tried a few different locations for the front & rear mount points on the center shock.

Best so far is no shims on the rear, and lowest hole up front.

By raising the front shock mount brace #4655 up 2mm, there is space to move the lipo forward an additional 2mm.

By no means am I suggesting that this setup is for everyone, I also agree starting with the kit setup is advisable.

This setup is just flirting with the edge of that setup a bit
Works really well at TQ.

Bite is rising at our track, the whole car has so much grip I think it's bogging down. Looking to loosen it up a bit and I like your set up.
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:29 PM   #704
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Put in a set up like Redbullfixx, moved the battery way forward, lined up the ESC, receiver and servo down the middle. It was a small field, but I qualified 2ND and won the main. Car rotates much better. Very pleased.
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:33 PM   #705
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Put in a set up like Redbullfixx, moved the battery way forward, lined up the ESC, receiver and servo down the middle. It was a small field, but I qualified 2ND and won the main. Car rotates much better. Very pleased.
It looked faster from where I was standing too. We ran my rubber tire TC against the WGT and we found that the times were dead even, I took TQ by a few seconds but Lonny got the W in the main.
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