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Old 11-21-2011, 02:16 PM   #661
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Default RC10R5 diffballs

I see there are 6 diffballs in the kit.
The spur has more holes.

Is 6 diffballs usually the way to go?

Or can more diffballs be used?

Or might more diffballs be necessary in some cases?

What does define the number of diffbals to use?
For instance the power of the motor, or other criteria?
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Old 11-21-2011, 07:51 PM   #662
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OK. Reiterate: Go to your track and learn from the guys there. A few answers; fill the holes in the outside ring of your gear with balls, all the holes. Make sure that the front suspension moves absolutely freely, then apply a light coat of your 60K to the bottom of your kingpin where it passes through the lower suspension ball. Yes it acts as a damper, it's more effective on a bumpy track, if your track is smooth you may not need it. A lighter fluid (30K or 20K) will give a softer effect. If you're serious, you renew it for every run, if you're more relaxed once a day can work. Paragon can work on any surface, though the surface must be clean as Paragon will cause the tires to pick up. It's usually best to use what the other racers are using. The Jaco tires are less well liked because the yellow stripe they use to ID the tires seems to affect the grip they produce. Good luck and don't get discouraged, it takes a while to get up to speed.
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:47 AM   #663
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Default RC10R5

No answers on this side of the Atlantic as to what product exactly is 60K, 30K, 20K.
So back to this thread, as I knew upfront!

What is the exact (commercial) article description, as to 60K, 30K and/or 20K?
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:54 AM   #664
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Perhaps i am understanding it wrong but i hear we go.
They are meaning with 60K 60.000 oil as normally used in nitro gear diffs
It is the value that indicates the thickness of the oil.
So 30K is 30.000 and so on
It is used on the kingpins to smoothen it's action and give a bit of dampening.

regards Roy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
No answers on this side of the Atlantic as to what product exactly is 60K, 30K, 20K.
So back to this thread, as I knew upfront!

What is the exact (commercial) article description, as to 60K, 30K and/or 20K?
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Old 11-24-2011, 04:35 AM   #665
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Default 60K

Thanks Roy,

So that is cst value?

Any sillicone oil will do?
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Old 11-24-2011, 04:55 AM   #666
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You got different ratings about the oil.
You got WT like Losi and Associated and you got CTS and CPS.
It is indeed the value for the thickness of the oil
What do you have at home or what is your LHS selling??


Regards Roy

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Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Thanks Roy,

So that is cst value?

Any sillicone oil will do?
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Old 11-24-2011, 10:43 AM   #667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
I see there are 6 diffballs in the kit.
The spur has more holes.

Is 6 diffballs usually the way to go?

Or can more diffballs be used?

Or might more diffballs be necessary in some cases?

What does define the number of diffbals to use?
For instance the power of the motor, or other criteria?
I run two rows of 6 - the outside row can only go in one set of holes, and I'd put the inside holes that are between those. It will make sense when you have the spur gear in front of you.

It gives more contact patches, and uses two spots on the diff rings for this.

Whilst I run 10.5 with advance which is pretty quick, I've always run 12 diff balls for 12th and GT
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Old 11-24-2011, 10:47 AM   #668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
No answers on this side of the Atlantic as to what product exactly is 60K, 30K, 20K.
So back to this thread, as I knew upfront!

What is the exact (commercial) article description, as to 60K, 30K and/or 20K?
It's the thickness of the oil or grease used. If you've every run Nitro cars or had a Touring fonr gear diff then you'll know more about those. I haven't so like you have had to ask.

The idea is the grease add a further level of damping to the front springs. Smear it on over the spring to get that. Check it from time to time, and if it looks like the grease has gone or too much fluff on the spring then clean and re-fit. (not unlike side damper tubes).

Personally I run the longer 10R5 springs, and run them dry without any oil. Make sure the suspension pin moves smoothly up and down and you'll be fine. A 1/8th reamer can help with the hub, and spinning the pin in a Dremel and polishing with a very fine glass paper (or wet and dry) can also help.
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Old 11-24-2011, 10:53 AM   #669
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Default Difballs

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkBurgess View Post
I run two rows of 6 - the outside row can only go in one set of holes, and I'd put the inside holes that are between those. It will make sense when you have the spur gear in front of you.

It gives more contact patches, and uses two spots on the diff rings for this.

Whilst I run 10.5 with advance which is pretty quick, I've always run 12 diff balls for 12th and GT
I think I understand:
you mean six balls in the outside row, as seen on the pic in the manual and six balls in the ring of holes, the inner circle. one ball everytime in between two the outer balls.

The diffring is wide enough for that so it seems.

So two circles of six difballs is better than one of twelve.
Because as you say it gives more contact patches, and uses two spots on the diff rings for this.

Anyway, extra difballs have to be bought. Any preferences?
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Old 11-24-2011, 10:59 AM   #670
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Always use ceramic balls.
They last longer and are smoother.

regards Roy
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Old 11-24-2011, 11:02 AM   #671
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Default Front shock

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkBurgess View Post
It's the thickness of the oil or grease used. If you've every run Nitro cars or had a Touring fonr gear diff then you'll know more about those. I haven't so like you have had to ask.

The idea is the grease add a further level of damping to the front springs. Smear it on over the spring to get that. Check it from time to time, and if it looks like the grease has gone or too much fluff on the spring then clean and re-fit. (not unlike side damper tubes).

Personally I run the longer 10R5 springs, and run them dry without any oil. Make sure the suspension pin moves smoothly up and down and you'll be fine. A 1/8th reamer can help with the hub, and spinning the pin in a Dremel and polishing with a very fine glass paper (or wet and dry) can also help.
Interesting. But I thought the grease or oil was to be put on the kingpin. The pivot ball in the suspension arm moves over the kingpin. Because the kingping is greased there is some sort of dampening. I think that is the way I am going
to do it, at least if and when the track isn't that smooth.
Or am I barking up the wrong tree here? (hope not......)
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Old 11-24-2011, 11:28 AM   #672
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Here is a pic of the 10R5 I've been racing in 1s 13.5 blinky WGT form.
As you can see the lipo is mounted well forward, giving the car good weight distribution, which has resulted in a very consistent car during the entire 6min run, usually only .2 to .4s drop from start to finish.

To move the lipo as far forward as possible in the standard configuration 2mm shims were added under the front shock mount.

Inline axles provide the most steering possible from my experience with this car thus far.

The rest of the setup is essentially kit
40wt center, red spring
80wt side, gold spring
Pod flat, 1mm droop
.020" front springs, no droop
Short Wheelbase
52mm BSR Spec tires Fr & Rr
4mm RH
Powered by MurfDogg 13.5 Synergy: 10deg timing, 92roll
MurfDogg SuperCharger 60C 1s lipo

In "Club Race" format the car weighs in at 890gr

Haven't seen many pics of 10R5's here lately

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Team Associated Factory Team RC10R5-10r5_sm.jpg  
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Old 11-24-2011, 11:37 AM   #673
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Nice car.
Got mine this week.
Need to get me some electronics in it so i can drive it
Also thinking on converting it to 235MM
This because we drive WGT just in the winter time indoor and 235MM summertime.
Hmmmmmmmmm........
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Old 11-24-2011, 11:43 AM   #674
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Man. That is a sexy machine right there. If you ever wanna get rid of it lemme know.
Looking for a 10r5 for next summer. Or buying parts to convert a 12r5.1. Seems easier to convert. No
One seems to carry this car =(
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Old 11-24-2011, 11:46 AM   #675
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Quote:
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Man. That is a sexy machine right there. If you ever wanna get rid of it lemme know.
Looking for a 10r5 for next summer. Or buying parts to convert a 12r5.1. Seems easier to convert. No
One seems to carry this car =(
Thanks.

If you live in the US, AE sell the car through their online store.
http://order.aeteam.net/product_deta...?Itemcode=8020

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