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Old 07-22-2010, 04:41 AM   #541
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Default 235mm rear setup.

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Originally Posted by 2wdrive View Post
What i read somewhere else is that you can make the back 230mm by using the wide IRS axle and left and right long hubs. I saw pictures somewhere as well. It is very straight forward. It is not 235mm but it is close when shimmed correctly. Then you don't need those crc hub extensions.
So its easy to find the Full Option front conversion but not wanting the hub extensions, where do I find the IRS rear pod and hubs and does anyone have the correct part numbers for these parts? Thanks for any help.
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:57 AM   #542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpy View Post
So its easy to find the Full Option front conversion but not wanting the hub extensions, where do I find the IRS rear pod and hubs and does anyone have the correct part numbers for these parts? Thanks for any help.
it is not advertise:
http://www.teamirsrc.com/axles.html
use this: IRS2135

and it is wide axle if you want it for pro10, now
there is no conversion for rear pod for 10R5 so you can do it in two ways:
- new rear pod and upper,
- or some tube for left side ... (big shim )

I put 10R5 on 10L2 (old style axle) and probably with irs2135 there will be 230mm not 235, maybe 228mm wide.
It looks like 10L2 (which is pro10) has engine mount moved about 5-6mm to right side, so with 10R5 for left side, you will need 10-15 tube for left hub, and this sucks ...

Probably better way is made new rear pod moving only left mount (or
move right mount to right for 5 mm).


Hm, maybe I will try build prototype (cad drawings) when IRS axle come to me.



m.

ps: crc hubs (extensions) are nice, for 17.5T/2S lipo racing are nice, there
is no drastics speed like on modified/2S lipo
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Old 08-25-2010, 06:46 PM   #543
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Anyone running the LRP SSX Stockspec with 1S/13.5? What are your esc settings?
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Old 09-13-2010, 01:40 PM   #544
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Hi!

I don't use LRP but try use GM V2 speedo

With 13.5T/1S lipo, 1030g weight, 58mm tire, 69/31 car is CRAZY FAST!
with gm set right!

Last Sunday I got same speed (F1 chassis) to 13.5T/2S lipo on this set.

Btw, for LRP just use max profile 8 or something, I know that users
put all controls to max, then adjust rollout.

Regards!
m
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Old 10-07-2010, 01:53 PM   #545
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Anybody got Top Driver set up from Las Vega?
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Old 10-07-2010, 06:16 PM   #546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OVA View Post
Anybody got Top Driver set up from Las Vega?
I can get Mike Blackstocks set up. We did not really change much from last years race. I will get it posted on the AE site soon.
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Old 10-07-2010, 06:48 PM   #547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
I can get Mike Blackstocks set up. We did not really change much from last years race. I will get it posted on the AE site soon.
Thanks
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Old 10-07-2010, 08:29 PM   #548
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Does anyone run these on large outdoor tracks? I've just bought one second hand for my son and set it up for 2 Cell Lipo, and keen on some other set-up's to compare.
I've just put a brushed motor in it for now as he has never run pan, and tomorrow will be the shake-down run.
I have a CRC Gen-X10 so 2 cell Lipo was easy for me as it takes them straight away, but with the 10R5 I have to approximate the centre shock geometry etc., and don't know what is going to happen on the track!
I'll post up a pic later for those who are interested.
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Old 10-08-2010, 03:06 AM   #549
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Talking 10R235

Hey all. Just thought I'd post up what I came up with in regards to turning my 10R5 into a full fledged 235mm pro10. I purchased the Full Option front peice and the IRS rear wide axle set and made a 15mm shim/spacer for the left side as in the pics. I didnt like the idea of running a 2S lipo north/south in the chassis due to center shock angles, weight distribution and mounting and fixing points etc so I made up a new center shock tower to better utilise the battery space for a 2S saddle pack which fits perfectly. I have enough space to fit a Speed Power 5500 30c saddle pack in the car and it performs great with the kit setup on outdoor asphalt. I should also point out that this is the first pan car Ive owned and after the first day of testing I was turning the same lap times as with my 416x with SP13.5/2.1 prostock setup. I totally love it and on that day had a bigger smile than when I was running my TC.
Attached Thumbnails
Team Associated Factory Team RC10R5-img_1252.jpg   Team Associated Factory Team RC10R5-img_1187.jpg   Team Associated Factory Team RC10R5-img_1183.jpg   Team Associated Factory Team RC10R5-img_1245.jpg  

Last edited by Bumpy; 10-08-2010 at 03:08 AM. Reason: addition of info.
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Old 10-08-2010, 03:26 AM   #550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpy View Post
Hey all.

Nice job!

Think about bigger TC center shock, then you can feel difference for springs
and oils.

Nice move dude!

m.

ps: http://www.aeforums.co.uk/forum/inde...showtopic=8004
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Old 10-17-2010, 05:46 PM   #551
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For anyone looking for a rear body mount brace to replace the 2 small posts that come stock on the RC12R5 or RC10R5, I have a few available at teamtamale.com.
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Old 10-20-2010, 07:56 AM   #552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpy View Post
Hey all. Just thought I'd post up what I came up with in regards to turning my 10R5 into a full fledged 235mm pro10. I purchased the Full Option front peice and the IRS rear wide axle set and made a 15mm shim/spacer for the left side as in the pics. I didnt like the idea of running a 2S lipo north/south in the chassis due to center shock angles, weight distribution and mounting and fixing points etc so I made up a new center shock tower to better utilise the battery space for a 2S saddle pack which fits perfectly. I have enough space to fit a Speed Power 5500 30c saddle pack in the car and it performs great with the kit setup on outdoor asphalt. I should also point out that this is the first pan car Ive owned and after the first day of testing I was turning the same lap times as with my 416x with SP13.5/2.1 prostock setup. I totally love it and on that day had a bigger smile than when I was running my TC.
Neat setup! Here is my 2s 10R5. With an LRP X11 21.5, runtime is not an issue with these packs

You didn't happen to make any extra shock mounts that you'd be willing to part with at all?

Cheers
Daniel
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Old 10-20-2010, 11:34 AM   #553
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I made my boys 2 cell set-up with the battery north to south. If you add a few spacers to the rear mount, you keep the same shock angle. It's still 200mm, as that is what we are racing own here. Whole thing cost nothing as it was stuff I had in my toolbox.
Had a race last weekend and it really was on rails. Quite amazing considering I know 3/5 of stuff all about pan. Lucky build.
I used a rear tweak spring mount from a CRC car and shaped it to fit for the front end of the centre shock, and used some stand-off tubes with 2 new holes in the chassis. Then I made some CF side strips to stop the battery moving sideways. I just put a single strip of tape at the front to stop it moving forward (haven't mad a front-stop yet.
These cars handle 2 cell Lipo very well considering they are just big versions on the 12th cars.
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Old 10-31-2010, 04:55 PM   #554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pakk View Post
My car seems to tweak a lot.
Check your center pivot adjustment. Make sure the ball is free and that the holder is adjusted correctly. Also make sure the side links are free. You should not bottom out the side link screws. The car should never tweak.

You can check your center pivot by removing the center and side shock and side springs and motor. The rear should pivot freely without any binding. If you lift the rear pod then turn it side to side it will feel like it pops if the adjustment is off.
Check out post #429 on page 29 of this thread for Andrew's good post on checking and adjusting the center pivot.
Etienne

Last edited by Tuner EM; 10-31-2010 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 11-23-2010, 08:46 PM   #555
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Has anyone setup a standard 10R5 to run oval? I was looking for a way to do this by just moving around the electronics. I have some 2 cell packs that would fit great down one side of the chassis and I could run all of the electronics down the other side. Would I just be wasting my time (and a great car) or is there a way to do this effectively without buying a new chassis?
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