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Old 03-27-2010, 08:16 PM   #511
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Originally Posted by EVILGRAFX View Post
I am maybe considering a button-head screw on the wheel side with some shims to keep is from going past that point and getting locked in. It may help.
This actually looks like it works. The steering knuckle stops right on the screw which keeps the tire from going any further.

Thanks
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Old 03-28-2010, 01:43 AM   #512
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Same tires everyone else is using (standard 1/10 front wheels) but, nobody else at our track is using this kind of front end to see if something different is happening with my car.

"Upper arm mounts"? Do you mean lower arm mounts? The upper arm mounts are on the other side of the bulkhead.

I am maybe considering a button-head screw on the wheel side with some shims to keep is from going past that point and getting locked in. It may help.

What do you mean by "fishy"?

I meant perhaps your tires are cut larger than normal. What mm are they? I am guessing full size?

Ya, lower mount. I wan't looking at the car, just remembering something I had read about.

By fishy was trying to say that there are probably better ways to fix your issue. I read the suggestion I think from a caliber driver that might spray out their diff and re-lube it without disassembling it . . .
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Old 03-28-2010, 06:25 AM   #513
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What mm are they? I am guessing full size?
Jaco Lilacs and it doesn't matter what size the tires are cut to, they get stuck new and all the way down to the rim.

The washer and screw thing fixed it and I may consider inline axles as that would move the whole assembly forward and the tire would line up differently in that area.

Thanks
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Old 03-28-2010, 06:38 AM   #514
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That is a weird problem. My 10R5 and all the others at our track has never had the problem you've encountered all season. I managed to race every weekend on the same set of Jacos. I'm using 4 spacers on the front axles per side.
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Old 03-29-2010, 08:28 AM   #515
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Several people have had this problem on our track. On Wednesday evenings, we run a really tight track, so you have to run a lot of steering. Hit the wall right, and the inner tie rod goes over-center and locks the wheel.

We put a zip-tie with a relatively large head around the control arm at the point where the wheel would contact it, and Shoo-Goo it into place. Acts as a travel limiter and keeps the tie rod from going over-center on the knuckle.

Neal
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:34 AM   #516
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Several people have had this problem on our track. On Wednesday evenings, we run a really tight track, so you have to run a lot of steering. Hit the wall right, and the inner tie rod goes over-center and locks the wheel.

We put a zip-tie with a relatively large head around the control arm at the point where the wheel would contact it, and Shoo-Goo it into place. Acts as a travel limiter and keeps the tie rod from going over-center on the knuckle.

Neal
That's interesting. Thanks for the input. I too have only had this problem indoors where the track is tight and if you catch the inside wall, it does this.

I have a setup that I think will work well if you would like to try it. I got a 3mmX6mm bearing and screw it into the lower rear aluminum suspension mount with a button head screw on the side of the tire obviously. The mod allows for full steering throw and if the tire goes too far, it hits the bearing and the bearing just rolls allowing the tire to keep rolling. It probably won't roll because of the wall but, it won't get stuck either.
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:42 AM   #517
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Can you post pics?

Regards!
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Old 03-29-2010, 10:46 AM   #518
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Can you post pics?

Regards!
m.
Sure, as soon as I get a camera that works.
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Old 03-29-2010, 02:16 PM   #519
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We race on a very tight but flowing track layout. Our lap times are in the very high 7s and very low 8s. None of the AE guys has had this happen yet but we'll keep on eye on it now that we've been alerted.

Our biggest problem was the non-drive hub slipping on the axle. One person used a coat of CA on the axle and I used a carbon fiber assembly paste to resolve it. Both answers worked.

Thanks
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Old 03-29-2010, 02:29 PM   #520
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We race on a very tight but flowing track layout. Our lap times are in the very high 7s and very low 8s. None of the AE guys has had this happen yet but we'll keep on eye on it now that we've been alerted.
I'm guessing it's only because of the barriers we use at our track. I have had no problems as long as I didn't catch an inside corner. A wider body would have probably keep this from happening as well.
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Old 03-29-2010, 04:18 PM   #521
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For the front wheels getting stuck on the lower arm mount... I've seen problems with this when running the trailing axles on the front end. Haven't seen the issue when using inline axles. Are you guys using trailing axles?
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Old 03-29-2010, 06:12 PM   #522
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For the front wheels getting stuck on the lower arm mount... I've seen problems with this when running the trailing axles on the front end. Haven't seen the issue when using inline axles. Are you guys using trailing axles?
This was the other option I was considering. How do the inline axles affect the handling?
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Old 03-31-2010, 02:20 AM   #523
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Inline front axles will increse a huge amount of steering and will make the steering much more aggressive. This is used mostly on oval pancars and sometimes on roadcourses...
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Old 03-31-2010, 01:59 PM   #524
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Inline front axles will increse a huge amount of steering and will make the steering much more aggressive. This is used mostly on oval pancars and sometimes on roadcourses...
Thanks, I may give them a try for asphalt.
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:49 PM   #525
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Hi
Just pick up the used RC10R5,and what parts do I need to converter to 235mm and who have them in stock? Thanks
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