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Old 09-30-2009, 12:12 PM   #406
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How do you set the springs? How much tension? Basically how do you use it to tune the car for tweak?
I start with the springs backed all the way off, then slowly run them down until they just touch the links. Next check your tweek using your prefered method and adjust the screws as needed to get the tweek correct.
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Old 09-30-2009, 04:03 PM   #407
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Hello guys, I am hoping some resident experts may be able to offer me some advice on getting into 1/12th racing.... first a little background, me and four of my nitro buddies are looking for something to run this winter, our local LHS has a medium sized indoor carpet track, they don't run too many races, but the track has great acess whenever its needed.... So me and my buddies are thinking of buying 5 of the same car and motor setup, just to make the learning curve easier.... Our LHS stocks the AE car with full compliment of parts, so I have decided the AE car is our best bet......A few of the guys were looking at the X-Ray M-18, but I feel the 1/12th cars would be more competent and robust.......... Anyways I would like to go BL with lipo , not looking for a overly fast motor, just something useable that we can develop our driving skills with.......... I am completely and utterly clueless when it comes to 1/12th racing, so I have no idea what direction to take.... We would be looking for the best servo possible ( durability is very important ), digital preferred.... Basically I am hoping someone here can take my hand and guide me to a good working setup that can get my group up and running with the least amount of trouble.... As I say we are all very green to to carpet racing and I fear without guidance we could easily go in the wrong direction and waste both time and money........ Also I am thinking we will start with AE newest offering http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ad-Pan-Car-Kit


Anyways hopefully a few of you guys have the time to help me, I have done some reading thru the threads, but honestly the threads are long and many things are over my head so finding what i am looking for is difficult....Thank you in advance !


Okay I made an error LOL I see this is a 10R thread, not a 12R thread.... I am truly clueless on these classes..... HELP !
I think you've made a great decision to go with the 12r5.1. It s great car to drive and work on and is SUPER durable. For a servo I reccomend the Futaba 9650. I love how smooth it is, how it is a direct fit in the AE and its plenty fast and strong. Doesn't hurt that its well priced as well. For a ESC I would suggest one of two at the moment. Either the Tekin RS or the LRP SPX. The Tekin allows you to adjust a few more parameters but requires computer access to change the more indepth settings, the LRP is more plug n play..

Any of the 1 cell lipos out now will suit you just fine. I personally prefer the SMC 4900 40c lipos with the inline bullets a I found them easier to wire. Reedy also makes a 4600 1 cell lipo with a similar connecting method.

Considering this is a medium sized carpet track and y'all are new I would recommend y'all start with a 17.5 motor in your cars. You'll thank me later!

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions along the way. Welcome to the wonderful world of 12th scale!
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Old 10-11-2009, 07:46 AM   #408
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Hey guys, will there be a new open style pod release of the 10r5? Say a 10r5.1? Or just buy some parts to convert it? Its starting to look like we will have WGT class locally this year finally.. Thanks
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Old 10-11-2009, 02:29 PM   #409
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I am wondering about the tweak springs, I am guessing they help with the roll of the car. When I tighten them down to 3mm above the chassis brace the car wants to traction roll every time I hit the chicane, then I loosen them to 4mm above the brace and it just feels like if I go any higher it is to much roll. Is everyone still running the gold kit springs. I run on a tight technical track that is about 75X46 13.5 single cell. I als have some CRC side springs in a couple different colors. I guess I am wondering how would changing the springs effect the rest of the car?
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Old 10-11-2009, 03:13 PM   #410
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looking for a starting rollout for this car. 4c 13.5 smaller carpet track. was thinking around 60-65mm. Sound close?
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Old 10-11-2009, 08:05 PM   #411
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Sounds pretty close from what I remember. Maybe a little lower if you're running an SPX/RS esc.
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Old 10-12-2009, 05:58 AM   #412
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Finally got to race my new 10R5 Friday night after 2 test-n-tune sessions and I gotta say I'm really liking this car! It's easy to tune and very responsive to small changes and the car was dialed all night long. I TQ'd by 2 laps and won the A-main by 2 laps. This particular track is very tight and technical with 6'6" wide lanes, medium/high bite and the car had plenty of steering and just the right amount of grip with the spec tires.

For anyone looking for setup info:

Short wheelbase
Battery Position: Rear
5* caster, big shim to the rear, small shim to the front,
red center shock spring, 40wt oil in center shock
32.5 weight in side shock
gold side springs
.020 front springs
front axle shims: one on the inside of the wheel

This is with the Tekin RS/Redline 10.5 motor on 1S.
Rollout: 61.59mm (93/33 on 55.25mm tires)
Full Boost
Zero motor timing
Full turbo, delay .5
Brake: 90
No drag brake
Throttle profile 3 (I'll try profiles 4 and 5 next time out)

I also just built up a GenX10 for a friend at the track. He wants me to put it through its paces before giving it back to him. It's a nice looking car, but it's gonna have to be really, really good to impress me as much as my 10R5 has.
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:00 AM   #413
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good to hear
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Old 10-13-2009, 10:22 AM   #414
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Hello there, our local track is gonna start a WGT class and I was thinking of running it. Question is I have a line on the AE oval car. Is it worth/able to convert to the onroad chassis, so that the battery is in the rear.
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Old 10-13-2009, 11:27 AM   #415
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Hello there, our local track is gonna start a WGT class and I was thinking of running it. Question is I have a line on the AE oval car. Is it worth/able to convert to the onroad chassis, so that the battery is in the rear.
Very few parts on the oval car will work on the on-road car. If you want a 10R5 you may as well just buy a 10R5, besides it's cheaper.

Also AE just posted my IIC set up on the web-site. I ran in the Expert WGT class so it's 1S with 10.5t.
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Old 10-13-2009, 12:04 PM   #416
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Cool thanks. I just talked to the racetrack/lhs owner and he is gonna be doing a novice/ beginners package At a great price so I am just gonna go that route.
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Old 10-13-2009, 12:27 PM   #417
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Originally Posted by DHMOTORSPORTS View Post
Hey guys, will there be a new open style pod release of the 10r5? Say a 10r5.1? Or just buy some parts to convert it? Its starting to look like we will have WGT class locally this year finally.. Thanks
I'm curious about the same thing. Interesting how Horizon Hobby no longer stocks the 10R5.
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Old 10-15-2009, 05:41 PM   #418
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I'm curious about the same thing. Interesting how Horizon Hobby no longer stocks the 10R5.
Horizon is not the only one.. I looked around and its out just about everywhere.. Sean? Care to share?
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Old 10-18-2009, 01:09 PM   #419
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Default Left hub problem

Hi all,

I was having a problem with the left hub sliding off during a run in the past until I put a longer steel screw in place of the stock one. And this fixed it for asphalt and 1s 13.5, where the grip level is not as high.

I recently converted my car to 2s lipo because of a near by state running WGT with 2s and 17.5. I will be racing it on carpet, so I did some testing with it yesterday at my local carpet track. About 2 minutes into a run the left hub slid off. I set the car back up, tightened the crap out of the hub and tried again. Lasted a bit longer but same thing.

So what I did to fix the problem is to use ca. Not sure if someone has already suggested this, and if so sorry for re posting. What I did was take the left hub off and with a q-tip and thin ca, I swabbed a very light coating on the end of the axle, about 2mm away from where the bearing is seated in the height adjuster. It should just take a minute to dry, and then I test fitted the hub back on. It needed a little more so I repeated the thin ca coating 2 more times. At this point the hub would not slide on, so I used some fine sandpaper to sand it down some. After a little sanding I was all set. I slid off the axle shims and pulled the axle out of the car to make sure I could if needed and then reinstalled everything. They raced oval yesterday so in between rounds I ran oval since this would really put a strain on the left hub. Glad to say it fixed the problem for me. 50+ laps at full throttle *4.3 second lap times* and no slip. So I feel pretty confident it won't let me down again in road course.

Hope this helps someone out
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Old 10-18-2009, 01:22 PM   #420
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Hi all,
I recently converted my car to 2s lipo because of a near by state running WGT with 2s and 17.5.

Can you post some pics of chassis ?

Regards and good luck!

m.
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