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Old 09-08-2009, 06:53 AM   #391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kave View Post
Hrm, this is really interesting. Anyone know if there is any truth to it?
Yes, it's true, get a Tekin RS Pro.

I have run both in my 1s GT10 and the Tekin turbo actually works.
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Old 09-08-2009, 07:27 AM   #392
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I am sure there will be a Hot setup after this weekend in Vegas...
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Old 09-20-2009, 05:07 PM   #393
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So what WGT chassis seemed to be the better car in vegas?
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Old 09-20-2009, 07:18 PM   #394
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nice looking car
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Old 09-20-2009, 08:14 PM   #395
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I think Bob S. Managed to get his 10R5 into the Expert WGT class. I saw a fairly even Mix of Speedmarchants, CRC's and AE's in the 13.5 WGT class. Even an XRay I think. I couldn't have asked for more from my 10r5. The car was definitely better than the driver.

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Old 09-20-2009, 08:51 PM   #396
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Can someone direct me to a setup for asphalt? This will be my first time running a pan car for onroad and in our WGT 13.5 1cell class.


Thanks,
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Old 09-22-2009, 07:29 PM   #397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Searles View Post
What is a good starting point on pinion/spur on a RC12R5 running 17.5 bl and/or 27T brushed, 4 cell Nimh, and a small carpet track?
4 cell 27T on a small track start at 40 mmpr rollout. mmpr is tire diameter in mm x pinion x 3.14 / spur tooth count.

a good starting point 45mm rear tire, 27T pinion, 96 spur.

for 17.5 BL gear up about 75 mmpr. Get a very small spur in the low 70 range and big pinions high 40's low 50's.
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Old 09-25-2009, 07:16 AM   #398
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Has anyone ran this car on asphault with 13.5/1cell? Also, are you guys able to put enough gear using the stock spur gear?
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Old 09-25-2009, 09:25 AM   #399
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I seem to only be able to use a 38 0r 39 on the stock gear, but it flies with the 1s
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Old 09-25-2009, 09:26 AM   #400
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comes off after 5min at 90 and 90
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Old 09-25-2009, 06:13 PM   #401
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To free the upper arm you may have to sand or file the burrs on the ends of the hinge pin #4623. It is normal to have a small burr resulting from the manufacturing operation. You can feel it with your nail. You should also shorten the pin slightly so you can fully tighten the retaining screw without binding the arm. The arm should fall under gravity.

To lower the centre of gravity when running 1 cell 3.7 pack you could consider milling the chassis battery area to lower the battery so the retaining bosses are flush with the bottom of the chassis. I did this with a wood router. I then sanded the remaining edges until the battery was flush and to round the transition minimising stress raisers.
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:37 PM   #402
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AE fans might like this one.

We got the chance to speak with Team Associatedís Juho Levanaen for another R/C Evil Empire exclusive interview

Juho gave us some background on racing in his homeland and where heís going in the future.

Another exclusive R/C Evil Empire interview!

http://rcevilempire.com/2009/09/vide...-juho-levanen/
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Old 09-30-2009, 03:52 AM   #403
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Hi!

I found bad thing in 10R5, this is left rear hub alu part, it should be screwed
by bigger steel screew not alu I can't set it strong so sometimes
my rear axle was taken off from it but for 1st ride this chassis that was not
big problem

Because in Poland nobady run in GT so I will switch to BMI part which
has bigger and stronger screws (but set width to 202mm), or from older associated 1/10 pan car

Regards!
m.
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Old 09-30-2009, 07:03 AM   #404
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Hello guys, I am hoping some resident experts may be able to offer me some advice on getting into 1/12th racing.... first a little background, me and four of my nitro buddies are looking for something to run this winter, our local LHS has a medium sized indoor carpet track, they don't run too many races, but the track has great acess whenever its needed.... So me and my buddies are thinking of buying 5 of the same car and motor setup, just to make the learning curve easier.... Our LHS stocks the AE car with full compliment of parts, so I have decided the AE car is our best bet......A few of the guys were looking at the X-Ray M-18, but I feel the 1/12th cars would be more competent and robust.......... Anyways I would like to go BL with lipo , not looking for a overly fast motor, just something useable that we can develop our driving skills with.......... I am completely and utterly clueless when it comes to 1/12th racing, so I have no idea what direction to take.... We would be looking for the best servo possible ( durability is very important ), digital preferred.... Basically I am hoping someone here can take my hand and guide me to a good working setup that can get my group up and running with the least amount of trouble.... As I say we are all very green to to carpet racing and I fear without guidance we could easily go in the wrong direction and waste both time and money........ Also I am thinking we will start with AE newest offering http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ad-Pan-Car-Kit


Anyways hopefully a few of you guys have the time to help me, I have done some reading thru the threads, but honestly the threads are long and many things are over my head so finding what i am looking for is difficult....Thank you in advance !


Okay I made an error LOL I see this is a 10R thread, not a 12R thread.... I am truly clueless on these classes..... HELP !

Last edited by Maximo; 09-30-2009 at 07:18 AM.
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Old 09-30-2009, 09:33 AM   #405
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How do you set the springs? How much tension? Basically how do you use it to tune the car for tweak?
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