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Old 07-07-2009, 04:53 PM   #331
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i have full steering and if i use the inside radius i'll be good. i've never seen someone measure from the inside that's why i was thrown off.
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Old 07-07-2009, 05:06 PM   #332
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that is what i was shown but there is no way possible to get the car to turn a 3' radius, maybe if i was measuring the inside diameter but not the outside.
What? why not? If I didnt know better I would say i can get my car to turn on a 6 INCH radius. I think im running my EPAs down to like 65 the car turns so sharp.
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Old 07-07-2009, 05:12 PM   #333
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To be perfectly honest I have never measured my turning radius on this car. I adjust it by feel and occasionally check to make sure they are equal both by turning circles on the track and/or eyeballing the linkage to make sure that the throw is the same.
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Old 07-07-2009, 05:22 PM   #334
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i have the car setup exactly like the blackstock setup sheet and my steering to the max, right before the steering blocks hit the lower control arm. rough measurements are 33" inside radius/41" outside radius. i too will make adjustments at the track but i wanted to use his setup as a baseline.
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Old 07-08-2009, 09:27 AM   #335
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i have the car setup exactly like the blackstock setup sheet and my steering to the max, right before the steering blocks hit the lower control arm. rough measurements are 33" inside radius/41" outside radius. i too will make adjustments at the track but i wanted to use his setup as a baseline.
You're fine. You will know real quick like at the track if you need to bring your epas down.
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Old 07-13-2009, 08:12 PM   #336
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Default rear axle, servo mtg, droop and camber gain

REAR AXLE
I looked into the rear axle vibration and rear wheel wobble. I don’t think it’s the axle diff plate holder which was within 0.001” runout on my axle. The axle was also true. The problem seems to be in the bearing play and tire imbalance.

Mkdut stated:
"It's the tire on the spur side that causes this. I have replaced everything including tires, hub, bearings and ride height adjusters and it is still there. And it is there on different brands of cars. It is also not present on the 12r5 so it has something to do with the rotating mass of the tire. "

The Jaco are out of balance. The CRC wheel don’t pilot well on the 10R5 because the hub pilot flange are too short. I think the imbalance in the rear Jaco wheel causes the wobble. The play in the bearing and between the bearing and axle and right hub is aggravated because the hub bearing separation is short on the 10R5. The out of balance tire make every thing run out. Then with use I think the tire wears funny (runout) and it gets worst. I get lots of run-out with used tires but if I rotate the tire 180 it’s reduced and runs truer.

Cpt. America asked:
"Is there a way to re-attach the right rear hub to the axle? It looks kind of like it's "pinned" to the axle. "

The hub is pinned to the axle. I’ve replaced a 1/12 once. But that is not the problem on my 10R5 as it spins true (square to the axle). The OD has a bit of runout so does the diff plate but that’s not a problem as the diff balls will run a proper circle. Look at a CRC Gen 10X. The graphite axle is much longer past the diff hub and the wheel hub is much longer so the bearings are further apart which reduces the effect of bearing play.
The CRC axle and RH hub would fit on the 10R5. The LH hub looks at first glance to be too long. The CRC also have a longer pilot which would center the CRC wheels. A machinist friend suggested I paint (enamel) the 10R5 axle and hub to reduce the bearing play. Not sure what else to try. I'm going to balance the tires (shoe goo on the inside works well). I may try the CRC axle.

FRONT SERVO
I tried angled servo which reduced the ackerman and help reduce lifting and traction rolling. The car felt smoother and easier to drive. The car felt more predictable and had more steering. I could hit my fastest lap time more often in practice.

CAMBER GAIN
We run a spec class with heavy HPI bodies which cause the car to roll more. I get front wear like there’s not enough camber so I added shims between the top arm and the steering block to get more top arm angle and get more camber gain. Test on Wednesday.

FRONT DROOP
I noticed the front droop was uneven so I shimmed the low side up and it seemed to make the car handle more equally.
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Old 07-13-2009, 08:25 PM   #337
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FRONT DROOP
I noticed the front droop was uneven so I shimmed the low side up and it seemed to make the car handle more equally.
How do you have ANY droop in the front at all? My front end is so tight, it sits 100% all the way at the top... 0mm droop in the front.
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Old 07-13-2009, 09:48 PM   #338
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so this car is built for road courses ? sorry for sounding like an idiot but im just now getting back in the hobby nad have alot to learn and catch up on
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Old 07-13-2009, 11:38 PM   #339
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so this car is built for road courses ? sorry for sounding like an idiot but im just now getting back in the hobby nad have alot to learn and catch up on
its for a specific class... WGT. 200mm pan cars.

http://worldgtrc.com/
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Old 07-14-2009, 06:14 AM   #340
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wow thats pretty specific lol, so basically if car doesnt meet weight then you will have to add weight i.e. lead ? and why do they have to weight specs ?
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Old 07-15-2009, 04:59 AM   #341
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Default Left clamping hub

After driven a 12R5 the whole winterseason, i had the roll out with my
10R5 yesterday on carpet. After a few laps, i experienced an issue with
the left clamping hub. In other words, it came loose (spur damaged now).

Due to the too small slot in the hub with only one screw, it's not possible to clamp properly. I tried 3 times, after a few laps always the same (even with ridiculously tightend screw). BTW i drive 9.5 with 2S Lipo.

I ended borrowing a IRS Hub from a colleague.

Has anyone else had this issue.
Is it worth contacting AE?
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Old 07-15-2009, 05:41 AM   #342
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I ended borrowing a IRS Hub from a colleague.
It's always nice to have such colleagues...
Lucky you that just by incident I had my L2 with the IRS hubs with me...

No, seriously, it's really a strange issue. I own two R5 and didn't have any problems with the left hubs at all with neither one nor the other...in my opinion clearly a warranty issue with AE.

Rgds,
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Old 07-15-2009, 06:38 AM   #343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nutsisneat View Post
After driven a 12R5 the whole winterseason, i had the roll out with my
10R5 yesterday on carpet. After a few laps, i experienced an issue with
the left clamping hub. In other words, it came loose (spur damaged now).

Due to the too small slot in the hub with only one screw, it's not possible to clamp properly. I tried 3 times, after a few laps always the same (even with ridiculously tightend screw). BTW i drive 9.5 with 2S Lipo.

I ended borrowing a IRS Hub from a colleague.

Has anyone else had this issue.
Is it worth contacting AE?
I have seen it happen multiple times. I would contact AE and see what they say.
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Old 07-16-2009, 03:48 PM   #344
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Rear Wheel Wobble and Vibration
This is what I ended up doing to fix the problem. I reduced the play in right rear hub. I put 4 center punches on the hub shoulders where the bearing flange sits. This slightly collapsed the side of the bearing hole and changed the hole from a loose fit to an interference fit that now holds the bearing tightly. If youíre trying this, proceed slowly, increasing the size of the center punch making them all equal to prevent run-out. The bearings used to fall out but they now have to be pushed out. I also applied CA glue to the axle where the RH hub bearings sit. I applied multiple very, very thin coats of thin CA with a Q-tip. This eliminated the play between the bearing and the axle. I now have to push the hub on the axle since itís a snug fit. I then balanced the rims using show goo and re-trued the tires (the wheel didnít take much to balance). Everything now spins true. The noise and vibration are gone. Previously the right rear tire would wear out of round. Raced it yesterday and dropped my best fastest lap time by 0.2 second. The difference on the track is considerable. The car doesnít vibrate and handles much more predictably. The RR tire wore perfectly.


Front Droop
I run 1/12 front springs in order to reduce travel and reduce roll in the corners. It also reduces the car pitching and heaving when running on a bumpy track. You can adjust droop by removing shims from the kingpin. I seemed to remember I still used shims with the kit springs.


5th Body Post
I wanted to install a 5th body post located at the base of the windshield but this is where the servo sits. For the flat servo I screwed a body post to a small piece taken from a broken chassis that had a chamfered hole. I then shoe-gooed the piece of chassis to the servo. It held up fine. For the angled servo I did the same but used the angled section from a plastic CRC Carpet Knife servo mount to get the body post vertical.

Left Hub
I had problems with the left hub at first. I tightened it off the car to crimp it a bit and replaced the screw with a steel one. I was then able to tighten it properly and it stopped being a problem.
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Old 07-27-2009, 06:05 PM   #345
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what kind of weight are you guys seeing with 1 cell lipo packs? my car weighed in at 925g with no lead added (53.5mm tires). how much over weight do you set up the car so it wll be legal on every scale? i mean if min. weight is 930g, do you set the car up at 932g or 935g, etc...
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